FR66s vs Ikeda IT-407 CR tonearms

Lewm,

Understand where you are coming from and I can agree with your comments in general.
I had Dertonarm (Daniel B) change the wiring in my FR66s (Thuchan's recommendation). Wanted someone who knew how to work the FR66s and builds arms himself. I had him send the stock cabling and connectors back to me so I could see what they look like (I still have them). The condition of the stock wires and connectors (more than 30 years old) due to oxidation/age and the quality of the wires help convince me that it is a good thing to do. We changed to current generation Ikeda Silver wire so as to try and stick as close to Ikeda house sound. Daniel suggested that perhaps using Kondo Silver wire might even be better but I decided to stick with Ikeda.
I believe the stock wiring was also Silver since that is part of the original FR66s package (S standing for Silver). The FR66 is using OFC. (Unlike the FR64 which is aluminum and FR64s which is steel. Many confuse the FR64s as meaning silver. But silver in the FR64s was an optional extra. You get a label stating Silver on the armtube which mostly falls off unfortunately. I know because I once had 3 FR64s and only 1 had the original Silver label).
So, my opinion about the sound being better is not merely because of the material improvement (which is possible) but also because it removes the gung/oxidation build up over the years. I just get a little better detail coming through. Of course, we now have to also burn-in the new cabling.

Halcro,

Thanks for the link to the WE-800/ST. $8K though is a little too steep for me now but ... LOL! Won't it be funny if I buy another and it's the same one I sold years ago.
A nuded TT-101? Woo, you tempt me. But I already have too many TT's. I have 2 SP10MK3 already. But ...

If you search these forums, you will find a very different opinion from those above regarding the Ikeda tone arms from the designer of Lyra cartridges.

If Dertonearm performed the work, I am sure it was done to the highest standard. I knew he liked the Ikeda silver wire, was not aware of the Kondo option, but I have some Kondo silver tonearm wire I purchased for another project (the Kenwood L07J tonearm on my L07D). Actually, for what little this is worth, oxidized silver wire is about as good a conductor as is non-oxidized. Copper does go bad with oxidation, on the other hand. Are you in Europe? I thought about sending my FR64S (with "silver wire inside") to Dertonearm for the same work but have not yet done so, mostly because I do not want to part with the tonearm. My own search suggests that the S in FR64S does not stand for "silver"; it may stand for stainless steel. Are you saying that the S in FR66S does indicate silver wire? Rather confusing nomenclature, in that case.

Hi Lewm,

Yes, I understand about Silver Oxide being conductive also but I would think that having a mix of pure silver and silver oxide would have some detrimental effects, after all the audio community go to great lengths to get 4N/5N Silver with large crystals (OCC type) etc. Anyway, once you see the condition of the original wire, you will cringe.

Yes, FR64s means stainless steel arm tube. FR64 means aluminum tube. Hard to tell the 2 from pics except that the dynamic balance weight on the FR64s is long cylindrical while the FR64 is circular. Most people get this confused and many Silver wired version do not have the sticker on the armtube. I believe all FR66s comes with Silver wire especially if it comes with original B-60 adjustable VTA base.

I am in USA and send it to Dertonarm in Germany. But he was quite quick to turn it around. You should check with him though. He may be busier now with his headshells, arms, cartridge and protractor products.