Anyone Damp the insides of your Speaker Cabinets?

All loudspeakers sound best when they are as close to inert as possible. Vibrations just cause "fuzzy" sound. Before you go stuffing the insides--1st seriously consider reducing/eliminating vibration by bracing the walls.
Adding stuffing material will affect the bass response whereas bracing simply eliminates resonances. I have used "well seasoned" i.e.- old- coffee table legs of oak and mahogany to excellent effect. Use PL Premium glue and a snug fit. You can't go wrong by minimizing vibrations this way. It's well worth it.. You will end up smiling with the enhanced clarity and dynamics.

Ptss, if building a box from scratch (or even retrofitting), whats the best way to brace it? I was thinking it would be most effective to put shelves throughout that fit snug on all corners of the cabinet and then either cutting a bunch of small circles out of the shelves or even perhaps just one big one in the center of the shelf (to allow air to pass through). Also, would this approach impede free air flow and degrade sound quality?

B_limo. Interesting tough question that companies like Wilson, Rockport, Magico, Focal, YG, B&W, Dynaudio and others never stop working on. Of course as businesses they must concern with trade-offs. Your question-the best-need not consider trade-offs. I think this question is worth its own thread. I believe there are many knowledgeable, educated people who we hope would contribute. (Will you start the thread?-or shall I, as it interests me greatly as well.) I still have a pair of 1985 JBL 250Ti's whose sound I transformed-in all ways for the better- with bracing, mass and damping (all done with minimal effect on internal volume.

There are many ways of bracing, but introducing anything that affects the internal reflective properties of an enclosure may result in acoustic changes that are undesirable.

Shelves with hole(s) are used often, but it is calulated and incorporated into the enclosure design.

The technique in a prior post about using table legs to brace the sides has a lot of merit, in that it has the least impact on internal soundwave reflections or the possibility of creating standing wave traps.

Installing large diameter (1" - 2") wooden dowels in a finished enclosure can be probelmatic, but not unsolveable.

They would need to apply a little bracing pressure on the sides of the cabinet , which will be key in the success of this project. Fastening the dowels in place can be accomplished using epoxy on the ends.

Using seasoned wood is key, since it could shrink.

I have seen round aluminum bars and is worked very well, but in that case the enclosure had double sides and the bars were held in place with bolts hidden by the outer layer

Regards

Ptss, would you please start the thread? I start a new thread every other day, and don't want to be labeled "that guy".

In all honesty, this is the only site I've ever participated in, in any way, so its a learning experience all the way around for me. I've said a bunch of things I regret (it's on here forever, for all to see...) and a bunch of things I wish I never said, lol.

I agree though, time to start a new thread. Damping (huh, huh, notice I didn't say dampening??) has run its course... Black hole, maybe some plasticide on the drivers, etc.

I think damping is more of a way to fine tune. A strong, sturdy enclosure that is braced well should be step one... or steps 1-10!