Are film capacitors directional?

If you plan on getting serious about your electronics: Bite the bullet, and buy a Fluke(http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fluke-114-True-RMS-Multimeter-/250994535268?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7070ab64). The 114 will resolve down to 0.1mV. I've had my Fluke 6020B forever(well, way over 25 years anyway), and never had the first problem with it. Of course; now Fluke is made in China also, BUT- automatically selects for AC/DC =;^) (http://support.fluke.com/find-sales/Download/Asset/2634055_6116_ENG_B_W.PDF). I just bought the same one for my son at Grainger, and BOY did I get screwed on the price. Double what they sell for(new) on eBay(he was in a hurry, and it was the weekend). This one is more versatile, also reading mA(nice, if you get into tubes), and capacitance: (http://www.dealextreme.com/p/fluke-17b-2-6-lcd-digital-multimeter-meter-2-aa-included-28659)

2x on the fluke.
We had one at work....model# unknown, but we had to reliably measure 8mv with several digits left over.....and this one did with great accuracy and repeatability......Our spec was 8mv +-.001

Hi Al,

I borrowed a Fluke 115 from a friend. Here is the owner's manual. I tried the procedure again, and again I got confusing results. I think I should seek medical assistance for a severe multimeter learning disability.

At the risk of testing your considerable patience, can you try to walk me through this?

Bryon

Hi Bryon,

I looked through the Fluke 115 literature. The one notable thing I found is that I think you should perform the measurement using the "AC Volts" mode, not the "AC Millivolts" mode. The meter's input is AC-coupled in the "AC Volts" mode, meaning that any DC that may be present (which might otherwise confuse the measurement) will be blocked in that mode. "AC Millivolts" is DC-coupled, which is undesirable for what you are trying to do. The "AC Volts" mode can resolve down to 1 mv, which should be more than adequate.

On the Model 115 the "AC Volts" mode corresponds to the large rotary mode select switch being at the position that is immediately to the right of the "Off" position.

Also, given my uncertainty about the need for connecting the ground wire to an outlet screw, try it both with and without that wire, if necessary and if you already haven't.

Hope that helps. Best,
-- Al

Since Al's valiant effort to help me determine the directionality of these caps has failed to produce an answer, I emailed Parts Connexion, who sold me the Mundorf caps. They said this...

Regarding the caps...while caps aren't polarized.....some people "feel" they sound better, if the outer foil is connected to the INPUT side....and the input side is on the left, when reading the case printing from left to right.

.

But this seems to contradict what I read on the auricap website, which said...

The idea is to always have the outside foil connected to the lower impedance to provide outside foil shielding to noise. Circuit OUTPUTS are always lower impedance than inputs and should be connected to the outside foil.

So does the outer foil connect to the INPUT or the OUTPUT?

You can see a picture of the crossover I'm building, prior to soldering, here. The + outputs, which haven't been added yet, are marked "OUT" in red. Assuming the outer foil is connected to the LEFT lead of each Mundorf cap in the photo, do I have the caps oriented correctly?

Thanks,
Bryon