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Anybody have an actively multi-amplified system?

Hello,

I am one of the very rare breeds that has a fully active system, 6 Jeff Rowland monoblocks running Klipschorns with an Accuphase F-25V electronic crossover in front of the amplifiers, and the passive crossovers taken out of the speakers. It sounds absolutely phenomenal, like nothing else out there. I've been in the business 35 years and have yet to meet anyone (in home audio at least) who has done something similar. It's done all the time in pro audio, yet nobody talks about it for home use. It's widely known that an actively amplified setup simply IS better than any passively crossed over speaker, since the dividing is done before the amplifier, each amplifier only amplifies a certain frequency range, and then the output of the amplifier is connected directly to an individual driver with nothing in between. If anyone has such a setup, is interested in learning more about one, or wants to throw in their 2 cents, please do! It's about time we did talk about this, and I can't believe in all these years more companies haven't actively (pun intended) embraced this type of setup. Also, if anyone has crossover cards for an F-25V crossover, please let me know!!!
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lewinskih01
793 posts
 
This has been on my radar for a long time, but for the time being have chosen to get my system to a higher level - I was indeed just starting. I exchanged with Rodman about 3 years ago on this. But technically it makes so much sense, I keep coming back to it.

Taking the opportunity that so many active-ampers are looking at this: please recommend biamp-friendly speakers in the $5-6k range, used ok. I now have a McIntosh MC275 amp and B&W 804S speakers (and 2 active subs). I would be using the MC275 to drive mid/trebble on L&R and would add a SS amp to drive the bass, but taking out the crossovers in the 804S can't be easily done without "damaging" them. Or should I go DIY? I built my subs and am pretty handy...

My sources are all digital coming through a DAC, and have considered the Marchand and DEQ, but lately there seem to be better digital level solutions.
csontos
1,275 posts
 
Why remove them? Couldn't you just disconnect them?
lewinskih01
793 posts
 
Disconnecting would do it, but getting the cables to the drivers is non-trivial. Maybe I'm missing something, but I envision removing at least the backplate where the speaker cables connect to, so to get those cables right to the drivers.

On second thought, I guess I could by-pass the internal crossover with wires from the speaker connection bolts to the drivers and keep aesthetics as they are...interesting!
csontos
1,275 posts
 
You could use existing binding posts and add some if necessary but ideally I would go right to the drivers.
dentdog's avatar
dentdog
300 posts
 
While putting some components together for a system my mind tells me to go the actice route. Mind you, I've not had anything since my MCintosh 275s, JBL Pyramids and Winn Strain Guage cartridge in the 80s. So now for starters it's a Clearaudio Maestro cart w/ BAT VK P10 SE.and Zesto Leto pre.
Jim Smith (Get Better Sound) lives nearby so he's a resourse. My question is: If I tri-amp or bi-amp a set of Salk Soundscape 12s how do I get the right amps? Jim says in his book that for coherence identical amps are best. If I use 200-300 watts on the bottom end do I need the same for the mid-highs? On the other hand, Dennis Murphy crossovers in the Salks are nothing to sneeze at.
I have a pair of Mcintosh MC 60s tube amps being reworked by DeWick. How do I match amps for coherence?
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