Bryston VS Musical Fidelity

First of all, I never think in terms of an 'amp' as a separate entity. My experience tells me that matching of goods, that is amps and pre amps are more important than just the individual piece. For example, while an amp may sound great, it only sounds great potentially, and that if it's matched with the correct pre amp, speakers, and so on. I am a fan of matching tube pre amps with solid state amps, though, with the 'neutralization' (just call me Ogden Nash) of some tube pre amps this has changed radically over the past few years.
Now, with that said, what SS amp do I recommend? As much as I hate to kill retail sales people, a used Ayre amp, with the bias set to 1400. instead of their ususal 900 works great for me. It sounds like tubes, though not as much as people say. Black background, detailed, articulate sound stage. On Audiogon right now there's a V3 for sale for 1325. I believe. And if you call the factory they will do some things to the amp, making it much better than anything near the price, IMHO.
Again, speakers, amps cables, and so on are always a synergism. It is impossible to simply tell someone (for me) what an amp sounds like. The variables are simply too great.
Also, when someone 'tells me' they 'need' 300 WPC, I ask them more questions. How big is the room, what is your speaker, your listening tastes, music preference, and what do you think is loud?
IMHO people give out too much even though it's free, cheap information.

Then there are some of the newer, but used McIntosh's which use the Toshiba transistors, which are detailed and sweet at the same time.
Not thought of as an audiophile product for a long time, McIntosh has really come light years recently.
The choices are endless

Ayre V3. Thanks, Lrsky.

There's a new idea worth considering Greg_lett. In my time knowing Lrsky, he usually comes up with an idea ot two that could significantly change your system for the better.

Tvad,

Indeed the choices are endless. Wht you say about equipment
matching is also true. The reason I through a Rotel amp
into the mix is because I have:
Rotel RCD-1072 (CD Player)
Rotel RC-1090 (pre-amp).
I owned the RB-1080 also, but I sold that in order to upgrade
to the 1090. I did that because I heard a significant difference (for the better) in my system using the two old Rotels I'm currently using. As I stated earlier things came up so that got delayed, and I figure I would look at other amps.
The choices as you said are endless. I know if I get an
amp other than Rotel I would want to change out my other gear to match that brand. I know you don't necessarily have to do that, but I guess the products from the same maker should go well together, one would hope.

Gregg, I just purchased a pair of CI Audio D100 mono amps to audition. Right out of the box, I'd say they are comparable to my old Bryston 4B SST. Clear and punchy. Currently playing @ 99dB through my VR4 SE loudspeakers measured at my listening position 8 feet from the speakers.

Given the price of $1599, these are a no-brainer over a 4B SST, and I venture to guess the Rotel as well. Have you ever measured the decibel level from your listening position? It might give you some insight into how much power you actually use. Radio Shack Db meters run about $50, or less.

Tvad,

I haven't measured the db level. I will do some reading
on the CI Audio.

Gregg, the reason measuring the decibel level is helpful is it gives you a real world idea of how much power is required to drive your speakers to what you consider "loud". Check your speaker's sensitivity. Mine are 89dB measured at 1 meter and 1 watt of power. Each time you double the power output, the speakers play 3dB louder. So, for my speakers to play at 92dB, I require 2 watts of power. 95dB requires 4 watts, 98 dB requires 8 watts, and so forth. Extrapolating the curve out, I require 32 watts for my speakers to play at 104dB. At 104 dB I can't be in the room for very long. On the other hand, 110 db requires 128 wpc. So, the power requirement increases exponentially versus decibel level. You can do the same for your speakers. Just start with your speaker's sensitivity rating and add 3dB for each doubling of power starting with 1 watt (assuming your speakers are measured 1 watt/ 1 meter...most are).

I mention this because you may find you don't require as much power as you thought. 100wpc may be plenty. 200wpc may add some weight and headroom, but I'll bet you never use it.

Tvad,

I'm not so sure 100wpc would be enough. The loudness is not
the issue, it's the weight, the body of the sound, as you
mentioned. I,ve heard the difference between 100wpc and a
200wpc amp, same brand. I know there are other factors like current that make a difference also. I also like having the
extra power for the days I may want to crank it up, which is
rare.

Gregg, you'll never know unless you try. Unless you measure the decibel
level in your room when you crank it up, you'll never know how much
power you require to reach the volume you desire.

Best of luck, whatever you decide.