magnepan mmgs-buy zero autoformers or stands 1st?


the mmgs sound good with my 40wpc el34 tube amp, but the bass needs tightening up. what would benefit me more, the zero autoformers or the mye stands. i'm thinking both will help immensely, but don't have the dough right now for both. thanks
cooch

Showing 8 responses by tvad

Narrod has the real solution, but this has already been discussed in an earlier thread of Cooch's.

I'd suggest trying the Zeroformers since they are available with a trial period. They should tighten up the bass. However, raising the impedance can also lead to a dry sound. Something to listen for...
I have to say I'm completely out of ideas to help your situation Cooch. Good luck.
You're not being a pain.

The ideas have been presented: an amp that delivers more current into 4 ohms (and lower), or Zeroformers. If Magnepan says not to use 8 ohm taps, then I certainly wouldn't risk trying it.

So, besides those two ideas, I don't know what else to suggest other than searching the member's systems for others who use Maggies and ask them directly for recommendations.

I will say that I don't believe the stands are going to solve your issue with bass performance although they might enhance the sound after the proper solution has been found.
Good suggestions above from Eldartford and Dave...particularly the KT88/6550 amp and room placement ideas.
i'm just wondering if any of the naysayers have even listened to a 40 push pull el34 tube amp with the mmg's. probably not...
Cooch (Threads | Answers)

KT88/6550 tubes are known for having better bass control than EL34 tubes. So, while your question is understandable and valid, one can extrapolate the qualities of a KT88 amplifier to get an idea of how using one would perform on Maggies in comparison to an EL34 amplifier. Some EL34 amps allow for using KT88 tubes as an alternative. If yours is one of these, this is something you could try for a relatively small investment.

As an alternative to the Cardas method, you can also take your front-to-back room dimension and divide it by odd numbers (11, 9, 5...). Take the numbers that result and use them as distances to place the front of your driver plane from the front wall. Try a couple of the measurements. Also, be certain the distance from the front wall to the speaker plane and the distance from the side walls to the center of each diver is a different distance. An equal distance will reinforce bass and contribute to boominess.

Also, since you experience boomy bass with only some recordings, perhaps it is inherent with the recordings and not a problem with your system.
Regarding break-in, the MMG manual makes no mention of it. On the other hand, the manual for my Von Schweikert VR4 Gen III HSE does mention break-in. Different driver designs. Does this mean the Maggies do not go through a break-in period? I don't know, but the MMG manual is very specific on a number of topics, including placement and set-up (Have you read this section and followed the procedure? It's quite good, and it specifically addresses bass issues.). I would think if break-in was a factor with the MMG, then Magnepan would have mentioned it in the manual.

12-18-06: Eldartford

Tvad...The manual for MG1.6 does talk about break in. What is says is that the LF extension will gradually increase until it meets spec.

That's good info.

I've read the MMG manual twice now, and I've not seen any mention of break-in. It's odd that they wouldn't be consistent in their manuals. Same driver design, correct?