Steam Cleaning - RCM or not?

Dgarretson: What a misfortune. In years of steaming, nothing like that has happened to me (yet). One rule: I never steam closer than 3/4"ish and constantly move the steam unit all over the LP side for moments at a time. May your fortune change. The whole purpose of steaming is to improve the plight of average-up LP owners. In the future please be awaire of the distance & concentration of steam. Most nozzels are brass , a touch there goes the LP. Better luck in the days ahead.

I think I finally ruined a record using my steamer with a VPI 16.5. I was experimenting by moving the nozzle of the steamer quite close to the LP. There is now a low-level thump on one radius line all across the LP from lead-in to run-out. I suspect that the damage occurred when the 16.5 clamped down the vacuum wand on soft hot vinyl. Be careful not to get too close with steam!

Tbg i use both and with fine results. I find the De Stat is very useful right after my steam cleaning process. I seem to develop a lot of static and the De Stat removes all of it with no problem.

I use Talisman before each playback of a lp. And do believe it improves the sound of vinyl. Lord knows what will come up next to rise our fancy.

Enjoy the music while you can.

Stltrains, I think you would find the Walker Talisman better. I did.

Furtech De Stat is a real winner for static elimination. Just wish they would have included a wall wort to use along with batteries.

Crem you are quite welcome.

Mike

Stltrains: Thanks for your support. Kind comments like yours really give me a boost.

On reflection, I was frankly surprized to discover the difficulity some of us were having with the MC 1235. I believe a Steam user with years of experience the transition appears more transparent from water boilers to instant steam makers. On reflection I think a blanket recommendation of the MC 1235 is over-reaching. The Perfection Steamer is a reliable unit very well suited to the over-all needs of a novice to a more seasoned record steam cleaner. Yes, the MC 1235 has innovations but certantly seems more demanding, more "complicated" than the Perfection. Both provide excellent results. The MC 1235 will provide excellent service but the learning curve is longer to the Perfection (now The Lifestyle Steamer).

As I previously posted ; a canster steamer I was operating at home "exploded" in my kitchen. No one was hurt and all the failsafe measures worked perfectly. The $100 canster steamer was expensive to repair ,$230 for the all brass boiler plus installation. That insident started me on a quest for newer technology : A fellow poster alerted me to the MC 1235.

What works for me may not always work as well for someone elese. But, the basics remain the same , a reliable water source & technique supported with a record cleaning fluid an RCM are proven sucess. The application of an anti-static device does improve upon the end-result. I have yet to use the Walker devise;however, I do use a home brew machine that drys & removes static in moments. I have a zapper and a studio tape demagger that removes all static in a second,quite effective .

remember that a thorough RCM vacuuming can leave the record with a strong static charge that needs to be dissipated with a Zerostat, Ionoclast, Talisman or some such device. If the record is still damp this will not be the case.

Crem glad i was able to get a backup Perfection unit. From what you describe above i would think the continuous spray would be on the easy side. Of course not using the newer 1235 i would not know would i.

And on it goes the evolution of steam cleaning vinyl and i could not be any happier with your discovery of steaming vinyl thanks again Crem.

Bogglor: Stltrains is describing the technique adapted for a "Perfection Handheld Steam Cleaner" available @ Walgreens but apparently according to posts the name has been changed to "Lifestyles" rather than "Perfection". It an excellent product alined with traditional water boiling units; the MC 1235 does not create steam in the same way. Therefore, it is possible that the spitting that you experienced was the result of holding down the water trigger. The MC 1235 manual cautions that holding down the injector trigger for more than 10 seconds creates spitting. The perfection works differently. The head of steam from the Perfection is released with the hand trigger at a constant rate until it is gone.

The MC 1235 creates steam on demand in 2-3 second bursts with each squeese of the hand trigger that injects a small shot of water into a micro-steamer that inturn creates steam moments following a squeese of the trigger.

Bogglor piece of cake. very easy to do. BTW i hold the trigger down the entire time i'm steaming with the attachment on the steamer its a Perfection steamer. Its normal for the blast of water along with dripping on most occasions. And thats hundreds of lps i've steam cleaned.

I've never had a problem always get super quite, sounding vinyl. The only problem is when a lp is so bad to begin with that the process does not get the results needed to enjoy the record. And all thats lost is your time and a few cents for materials. You will get the hang of it, then it will be second nature to you. IMO nothing beats the sound of a steamed cleaned lp period.

Hmm, there may be some error in my technique then, as I'm just holding the trigger down the entire time while steaming as opposed to a press / wait / press again cycle. I will remove the attachment and try it with your methodology and see if that improves any. It's important to note that it doesn't drip ALL the time, just on that first blast of steam it's a little more water vapor oriented than steam oriented, but it changes over to all steam quickly. If it persists or I find it defective after trying it your way, I will return the item to TI.

Thanks for your reply and all of your innovations regarding steaming. I am hoping that I can get it down to the science that you have!

That makes all the sense in the world to me, except other than the occasional white gunk on my stylus, which I suspect it certain mold release compounds, the sound is slightly - just slightly more open without using the RCM, and there's no sense of restriction in sound from not using the vacuum. Maybe I should be looking at what could be wrong with my RCM instead of the other way around!

Vanmeter, I have found that many LPs can be played shortly after cleaning. For reasons yet un-explained some LPs sound better with a rest. I have no scientific explanation but thats how it is ... Sometimes.

After trying Crem's steam cleaning methods, I was one who decided Cleaning Solutions were no longer necessary.......just a pure water rinse and vacuum after the steam. However I still use a RCM for all the conveniences of rotation and counter-rotation but most importantly, for the vacuuming. I would never consider just simply 'wiping' the record and air drying after the water rinse. At this microscopic level, there will be molecules of dirt and/or contamination lying at the bottom of the water trapped in the grooves. To let it dry there is I feel, counter-productive.

Bogglor,

I use the MC 1235 exactly as pictured on the box w/the straight nozzel. I have no dripping ... yet. If I were you, I would contact Top Innovations to request a replacement for your apparent defective unit.

How I steam is as follows:

I pre-steam a side to loosen up any grunge(my term for record dirt) , I lightly scrub with very, very fine soft brush or a VPI record cleaning brush. I do use record cleaning fluids from Home Brew to Disc Doctor & others with a gentle scrubing. I then use a VPI 16.5 to suck off the whatevers on the record, I then re-steam to remove any residue re-use the VPI 16.5 or in the alternative, air drying using a very, very soft cotton micro-type cloth to wipe while resting the LP from a 1/2 hour to a day.

I rarely ever re-steam a LP provided ,I replace the inner sleve & place the Lp in a poly bag.

Whenever I use the MC 1235 ,I squeese the trigger once knowing a burst of steam with follow several seconds later. I then re-squeese the trigger & release it release again perhaps releaseing a 2nd or a third burst of steam. Note, that's what differs the MC 1235 from the traditional water boilers in which the trigger releases a head of premade steam within the water boilers at a force preset by the manufacturer. With the MC 1235, I perfer to use the low setting on mint LPs & the higher setting everything elese. I perfer the additional control factor.

In terms of home brew, I use the formulas posted on the Net using 92 to 100 percent ISO & battery water.

You do not have a lazy susan : May I suggest using a 100 percent cotton wash cloth than micro-cloths , so many act as static magnets... That could be a part of the problem.

A lot of steamers feel strongly they do not require a RCM & swear that steaming alone is superior to any RCM.

Respectfully, its a difficult call because one can be assured all debris(AKA Gunk) in the grove has been removed w/o a vaccum machine. Still, other steamers use deep water rinsing with either very clean water or Nerl water with hand drying stating " That's the way to go". As for me , I'm a mixer I combo steaming with a RCM. That's my style but others say they have great results with steam and just steam, something you have not.

Bogglor , Demand a replacement or your money refunded.

Steamers, do you have any further suggestions ?

Crem - do you use an attachment with the MC1235? I just got one and want to make sure I'm getting the most out of it... and what strength are you using the steam pressure setting (the one on the handle?) Mine is maxxed out. I find that the first splurt of steam is very drippy so I usually spray that into a towel and then proceed with the trigger held down.

I recently steamed an LP that I had previously cleaned via my homebrew alcohol solution and it actually sounded worse.

It had more pops and crackles post-steaming than it had before, which was totally strange. I think it could be the new Mofi brush I was using, that thing was leaving a lot of threads/strands/residue on the microfiber cloth while I was drying -- could be that some of that thread junk got into the grooves... probably not the steamer's fault.

Right now I don't have an RCM or lazy susan to spin the LP on so I'm just laying it flat on a microfiber cloth and steaming around the LP for about 10 seconds with the bent nozzle held about 3 inches above the LP surface, moving at a steady pace. Any better way to do it with the MC1235? I've read through ALL of the old threads, so I guess I'm seeing if there's an update to your technique over time with this new steamer.

Crem (and others) one question - how long do you let the record dry before playing? Mine look dry right after wiping with a microfiber cloth, but I wonder if there's an ideal amount of time - 10 minutes? 5 minutes? An hour? Not at all? - that needs to pass before there's no chance of essentially wet playing deep in the groove. Or is the cloth getting every bit of moisture out? Just something I've been wondering about...your thoughts?

Sabocat, this sounds pretty wet and messy. I am going to retry steam cleaning soon using the VPI 16.5 with the Walker vacuum tube.

Good forum and good info.I use the walgeens steamer and it works well. But my cleaning process is a hybrid. I use the steamer in cojunction with the GEM dandy eaner and high pressure water hose. I steam, spray on the cleaner, apply the hose and finish with a steam. Then I wipe with microfiber and let dry. Works great for me. The hydraulic pressure removes any remaing crud left in the grooves and the final steam removes water residue

Vanmeter : I haven't yet purchased Spray & Wash or the Pledge Wipes, I will buy both soon. It is my guess w/o actual experience these cleaners should be used extreme cases. That is an opinion reasoned by use of other detergent-types cleaners but not the ones you suggest. I would try them & then reclean each LP with the prospect of removing all traces of household powerhouse-type detergents w/record cleaning fluid, several steams & the use a RCM to suck off whatevers left. I am concerned that the detergent residues could loosen the diamond tip by disolving the cement .Its known that some detergents can do that , I do not know exactly which ones. Should all residue be steamed off,I reason, no harm to the diamond's glue. That's my view , subject to revision.

Any more thoguhts on the Pledge wipes mentioned above? I have tried them...and they seem to work well, but I too wonder if anything is left behind. In the evening, if I shine a flashlight at about a 45 degree angle on a record that has been RCMd after steaming, there's little visible dust or lint. With just the microfiber cloth and no RCM, there's a ton of dust and lint. One pass under the pledge removes everything visible - literally one turn of the record.

No problem here. Give a read or email me. "Control" was a short-cut term . My view is that the Industry ignores the prospect of steam cleaning because there is no reason to support an idea that competes @ pennies on the dollar. Endorsing steam cleaning rather than your brand of record cleaning is not a great way to get your product sold.
I will disclose that several years ago I agreed to a private, invite only, informal "shootout" with one company that manufactures RCMs ,world wide. The owner was present. The pervailing view was that inexpensive steamer used out performed these very expensive products & machines. This was a private matter and I will not reveal the marque. That's all I shall disclose .

I don't write in a vaccum. I receive emails from all over the world requesting advice I give freely. The emails & posts help me as much as I contribute to them. That's how I learned of the MC 1235 ,a remarkable machine one completely adapted to steam cleaning LPs.

In closing, an example of the dramatic difference between steaming and vaccum machines . I own a 1950's Maria Callis LP in mint+ condition that I cleaned with a RCM. Initially, I could hear a slight "stage noise" before Callas began to sing . Upon steam cleaning & in the manner I suggest, one hears : Callas slowly walk onto her mark , the russel of her dress, the soft-sound of leather(most likely shoes) , the movement of her diaphram near the open mike as she opens her mouth, breathes in & instantly I am transported to the exact moment she sings. Quite profound , never forgotten.

Crem1, sorry I seem to have ignored your efforts. I will catch up.

Tbg, you can communicate with me off-line at your convience ,should you wish to discuss this further.

As for the "how to" that has been outlined many times in past years that's viewable in posts already archived. I would never be so cavilier to do "blow-off" material onto the floor. I respect my audio roon & lifestyle to do that. Thats a repugnate idea. Perhaps a read of old copies of "Listener" & Stereophile would help. I'm mentioned by name & the method was reviewed by Michael Fremer in '03 & '06. I'm was included in "Positive Feedback" a few years back.

Steam Cleaning Lps is something I have been perfecting for over a decade. I began to share the idea in print in '2000. Posters report that steaming is more effective than using a RCM but without the cost. Read a bit than try it out.

Crem1, very interest even if a bit paranoid. I know most of the RCM manufacturers, they feel no sense of being in control.

Can you please elaborate on how you use a handheld steamer to clean a record? Do you just blow off foreign material onto the floor or in the sink?

Tbg,I'll take a jab at responding to the question. This is a viewpoint found on years of slogging.

An over-view of the subject:

1: Many commerical steam machines exist , none suited to record cleaning. Most are suited to heavy industry to degrease machines. As a group they come in all sizes an shapes producing super-heated steam & water (some at hundreds ++ degrees) that melt grease(an vinyl) on contact. Next are garment steamers. Most can distort vinyl in seconds. The reason? Garment machines ,by design, steam & heat a relatively large area to remove wrinkels from cloth. Apply them to vinyl ,kaboom, now you have a droopy, wavey LP. Steam irons do the same only more so. Way too hot and dangerious!

The exception are the household , handlheld steam cleaners. As a group, the comsumer machines produce steam with heated water at near exactly the right temperature(212*- 220*F)cooling to 150* to 187*F. Perfect for record cleaning and household useage. Some more perfect than others but all can perform. Nearly all are constant water-boilers maintained under pressure til' the water runs out(8-15 minutes). They must cooled down before refilling.

Consumer handheld steam cleaners are already under licence (to some one or some company) . With no financal incentive, the Record Cleaning Industry (RCI) shuns most anything they can not contol. Generally, the steamers are not under public domaine but several components maybe that make them difficult to patient. A lot of trouble , money and no return.

2. Steam cleaning LPs is viewed as a threat to the record cleaning machine (RCM) market, manufactures having invested in expensive advertising & machining for decades. In truth, RCM make little money in return for the investment. Its a fact RCM's cost hundreds to thousands retail more than steam units that sell for $50.00 or less. A significant retail spread.

We are what I term "insidental users". We adapt an existing product to our needs that were never recognized by the inital manufacture. In short, we get all the "R&D" benefits with no additional mark-up. They manufacture for the world, in thousands of units, we as a group are few in numbers compaired to the global market,but, we pay the going rate. That's true most of the time;exceptions do exist.

Since I already own a RCM , I incorperate its use , what I term "Combo-Ing" to cleaning records with excellent results. Should you have a RCM use it.If not, no problem.

3. Liability. Of the designers/manufactures whom I have freely spoken with , none were keen to sell high pressure handheld, water boiling units out of concern (fear) for abuse & lawsuits. Still, others refuse to accept any notion that "lite" steam can clean LPs, only their product or cleaning fluid.It has been related, some take every chance to speak negatively , to Audio Insiders , here & in Europe, to slow the notion of steam cleaning.A few even claim steaming causes inaudable, periment damage to LPs, a claim wispered with no published evidence.

I can't blame them , if I were they I might adopt the same tactic. Nevertheless, the paradigm is changing(slowly)and in time the RCI will adopt steaming but as for when ? Besides , when insidental users (like us) can buy a MC 1235 for $50,light-years ahead of convential pressurized units,why should the RCI even bother ? Once I got confortable with the 1235's operation ,I doubt I will ever use a pressured , water-boiling handheld unit again.

Of course ,one can spend $150 on the Mapleshade Kit . Mapleshade puts their ID on the steam unit,actually a "Steamfast Runner",a constant water-boiler, Model SF-227, as their own . That's ok ,they have a right to do that,no problem. Or,one can easily duplicate the kit,sans the rinsers,for about a 2/3 thirds less than the retail price, a tad more with a 1235. Insidentally, the Steamfast units and the McCulloch units are manufactured for Top Innovations (TI), Inc. in China. TI owns the distribution rights to both lines. That is a fact.

I do not expect to see "Record Steaming Machines" anytime soon. But with the MC 1235 ,frankly, who needs ID's .

I have to mention, and it may have been said before and I've missed it, that the most amazing difference I've heard wtih steam is on old mono 45s. Steam isn't a miracle worker, but I'm hearing better signal to noise, less distortion, just all around cleaner sound much of the time.

Why are there no commercial steam record cleaning machines?

I've just been using the spray bottle such as shown at the link below, but about a 4:1 ratio (4 water to 1 S&W)...somewhere on AA I saw that, and that's what I tried!

http://www.bettymills.com/store/images/product/XREC1420.JPG

Vanmeter , I signed onto AA searching for "Spray & Wash" posts . I note that of 200 comments I viewed,none were adverse to "S&W's" use. A net search revealed a spray and a liquid. Which one do you recommend? If its the liquid is the ratio ,as some posts mentioned, 14 units of H2O to 1 unit of "S&W"correct? V, what do you recommend?

Vanmeter: Your post detailing "Spray&Wash"(S&W) offers a reasonable solution to an difficult cleaning problem. Vinyl is vinyl . Steam cleaning a super-grunged LP with the use of S&W , should cause no problems. Besides when its "Spray & Wash" a LP or the trash can , I'll use S&W. Thanks.

Readers : I purchased a McMulloch , Model MC 1235 Handheld Steam Cleaner @ The Home Depot Internet site ($50 to my door). I learned of the MC 1235 from a posting on another thread. The MC 1235 has too many innovations to summarize. Its a significant upgrade to my arsenal of steamers for LP cleaning. I recommend anyone interested Google "mc 1235" for a detailed explanation ... A true 21th Century Product in design, operation & technology. Best to all.

Thank you Tbg will put this on my watch list. have a good one

Stltrains, I grew up in Kirkwood long ago. At that time the Railroad Museum was merely an abandoned mass of trains behind barbed wire fencing. We use to go there often and climb into the engines. It was great fun.

I have some bad news about the tube. Lloyd has postponed having them available until April. I guess he just has too many other things on his table.

Tbg yes i love the Cardinals and Choo Choos almost as much as music. Very interesting on the vac tube. No pad that adds up to a much better desigen and im going to guess not harm to the vinyl. Going to check Walker and see if they are available. Thanks for the good info.

After still wrestling with white gunk on my stylus with just random records, last night out of frustration I tried Spray 'n Wash as has been recommended again and again on AA. I put that on one of my problem LPs, rinsed, then steamed, then scrubbed with my usual stuff, rinsed again, and dried. No blob on the stylus. So far, anyway.

Tbg, Thanks.

Stltrains, St. Louis trains?? The Delrin tube has no stand off nylon pads and has a narrower vacuum slit. All of this greatly increases the vacuum. With it all liquid is removed in one revolution, which is really helpful when you are using a four step cleaning as I do. I had a Loricraft which replaced my VPI and was much superior, but it took forever to vacuum off the record.

I have repeatedly recleaned records that had been cleaned with the Loricraft and always found cleaner, tick and pop free sound, plus better bass and treble. I even tried the more expensive Loricraft to see if it would be faster, but it was not really any faster.

Crem1, my experiences with steam cleaning were many years ago. I am sure that had I better equipment I might have had better results. As it was the process was too time consuming and the results not satisfying. Were there an easy to use steam cleaning product, I would try it again, but I cannot imagine better than I am presently getting.

Tbg, You stated " I don't have much use for steam cleaning ". May I inquire , is that based on personal experience ? Would you give a more specified outline of your objections ? The reason I ask is that reviewing you rig I am surprised that steam cleaning was such a negative experience. I would have guessed a different outcome ,perhaps, that you would have experienced greater "air" & extended "high end" in playback at minium.

I join Stltrains in my interest in the Walker tube vs say a Loricraft. All the best.

Sounds very interesting Thg. Whats the big difference in the stock tube and the Walker tube other than being make of delrin and how does a a vacuum tube make a lp sound better.

I don't have much use for steam cleaning, but I have found a modified vacuuming tube made of delrin by Walker Audio so greatly improves my VPI 16.5 as to replace even my string cleaning machine. I don't want to enter into any virtues of steam versus RCMs, but you all need to be aware of this improvement. The tube has been temporarily unavailable, but that is supposed to change.

My steam-enhanced steps:

1 - AudioQuest Carbon Fiber Brush to remove "big stuff"
2 - Remove line of "big stuff" with Nagaoka Rolling 152
3 - Apply Mobile Fidelity Enzyme Solution, work into grooves using Osage Listener Select Brush (best I've found)
4 - Let Enzyme work for 5 minutes, scrubbing once or twice during.
5 - Apply steam for about 3 revolutions while scrubbing.
6 - Vaccuum off fluids with VPI 16.5
7 - Apply Mobile Fidelity Rinse with second Listener Select Brush
8 - Vaccuum rinse with VPI 16.5
9 - Repeat steps 7 & 8

This has yielded the best results I've ever had using a variety of fluids over the years.

Vanmeter : With respect to micro-cloths "softer the better", has been my experience . I personally wouldn't be without my RCM but I use micro-cloths regularly and get excellent results. And, I never forget that MurphysLaw is always at work as far as LP pressings go.

I think I understand what you mean, Crem, as I've gone back and forth over the past couple of weeks switching between RCM and microfiber. And I've found that either way on some records I get gunk, sometimes that isn't gone after 2 or 3 plays. And only on some records, but while I had thought it was the end step causing it, I really am starting to think it's either something from pressing time coming loose with the steam or else...smoke, or something. At any rate, I'm glad to have come to the point I've seen for myself that I'm getting the same results basically with or without the RCM!

I wish everyone the best, but some of you are reacting to challenges that have already met & resolved as far as to steam cleaning. It is a fact that RCM's have a place in steam cleaning , but that does not preclude the use of steam only. For instance, the VPI RCM's work well with steam cleaning. They suck off lots of loosened materal far quicker that a Loricraft. But that does not mean a Loricraft can not be admended to the process.

The situation , the materals , the record's condition all interact with the outcome. Don't underestimate the importance of the condition of the pressing at the time of manufacture , even which pressing machine used, contribute to what resolution we hear from a given LP. I do suggest a read of most of the initial steaming thread , until the flamers . Lots of FYI buried there.

As always take care when accepting advice. Your prudence can save one from falling into a black hole. A comment I liked was from a person that claimed steamers don't make steam but water vapor koz steam is not visable to the eye. So, when one sees vapor no steam is present. Perhaps, but in the big picture its the steam (unseen) immediately followed by vapors and heated water spray that combine to loosen the grunge. Using a record cleaning solution can make for a greater improvement depending on the materials pressed between the grove and the output pressure of the steamer. Besides the idea is to use the properties of steam and water to bring you closer to the groves and hopefully the music. All steam could blow a hole thru the LP, something that can not happen with consumer grade hand-held steaming units , less garmet steamers that pose a danger to the LP due the surface area they heat. RCM certianly can significantly improve the listening experience ; they are the ultimate sucking machines.

All the Best.

Doug is certainly the expert when it comes to using the ME. The technique I learned from him was to trim a piece into a taper, sort of like one of those foam paint brushes, and use the thin part just like a brush instead of a dipping motion, which I never use anymore. Think brushing paint on the sides of the stylus carefully from top to bottom. It does take a reasonably steady hand and good visibility. This method should have easily taken that gummy crud off, but you would probably have had to just cut away that hunk of junk.

Keep working this with the steam and rcm, I still believe it will work very well for you once you find the techniques that work in your environment.

Also, you mentioned using a home-made cleaning solution. What this is made of, and how and when you use it in relation to the steaming step can have an impact on results. I like the idea of using an alcohol, or some other suspension, based cleaner along with the steam. This I find to keep the crud in suspension so it can be vacuumed up immediately. What works for me is to steam and then apply an alcohol based cleaner (AIVS in my case) while the LP is still wet from steam. Others report better results by applying the cleaner before steaming.

That makes sense, Doug. I'll experiment some more...

I have seen one stylus and cantilever (out of 15-20) so badly gunked up that even aggressive scrubbing with an ME wouldn't clean it.

To revive that cartridge I used ultra-fine sandpaper, Linn's old trick. That loosened the crud up, then the usual ME + dry brush finished the job.

It took months of play with no cleaning for the cartridge to get that stubbornly dirty, but it is possible.

---

FWIW, our (steamless) LP cleaning regimen (slow, costly and with expensive RCM) "never" leaves anything in the grooves. I do sometimes find a trace of dry, loose fluff on the stylus at the end of a side, but since any given LP will sometimes leave a trace of fluff and sometimes not, it's presumably airborne fluff attracted by static during play.

Should there be any fluff buildup during play we hear the degradation of HF extension, speed and "air" near side-end. That might be what you're hearing, and if you don't de-static before play (as Dan_Ed correctly advised for its own sonic benefits) it's more likely to occur.

It's even more important to de-static and dry brush *after* play before returning the LP to its sleeve, else dust collection is pretty much guaranteed.

How are you using the ME? I've never found anything that the ME won't get off.

The loss of airiness is most likely increased static that can be sometimes caused by vacuuming as others have already posted. I don't experience this with my rcm. Have you tried to restrict the airflow through the vacuum? Cutting down on the air velocity a little may help with this. Also a Zerostat or some other device used just before putting the lp down on the platter may help.

I tried steaming and mirofiber-ing one side of an LP last night, and steaming and RMC-ing the other, then played the towel side...big blog of white (and this isn't a dust bunny, it's a congealed blob) crud on the stylus that needed wet cleaning to get off - the ME wouldn't touch it.

Then, I played the other side, 45 minutes to an hour later, and after being face down on the mat. No gunk. Sad to say I think I'm answering my own question yet again...but I still feel like I'm losing some of that airiness when I RCM. There's got to be an answer to this (that isn't spelled Loricraft, which is out of my price range)...

I have noticed that the buildup problem seems to be totally random, too, so static issues would make sense. I was drying with three different microfiber towels and then giving a quick wipe again before play to remove dust, but it seems I have less dust buildup on the stylus if I don't do that last step.