vmps, art d/io, & boldercables.com


as many know, i am fond of vmps, & the art di/o dac. well, the vmps rm-40 has won a "best in show" award at the recent ces. and, here's a quote from vmps' brian cheney to wayne, of boldercables.com, who supplied brian w/a modded di/o. wayne charges $200 for these mods to the ~$130 di/o, & having done most all the mods to *my* di/o, i can easily say it's a most fair price! ;~) anyway, here's what brian had to say to wayne:

"...We used the DIO as our digital source throughtout the Show, since we thought the Sig 9 Muse player loaned to us did not sound as good. My transport was my own 10 year old Krell MD 10."

just thought y'all might want to know... :>)

doug s.

sedond

Showing 7 responses by sedond

plato, bolder cables will offer a 5.4a p/s for $100. but ya might want to try your monolithic p3 p/s - that's supposed to be a nice p/s...

kichoi, good for you - but, i *can* say that the mods i've done have taken the unit to a competely different level - even my wife can't believe this thing! ;~) so, whip out your soldering iron, or checkbook, & go for it! ;~)

joe b, that's what happened to me - when i read of guys ditching their multi-kilobuck digital rigs after hearing the d/io, i figured for ~$130 shipped, i dint have a lot to lose, even if it sucked! ;~) and, even stock, it's nicer than that $3k resolution audio cd50, & i'm using a relatively inexpensive nad cd-changer as a transport...

regarding upgrades, i suggest you look at harmonicdiscord.com, & go to the boldercables forum there, for what wayne offers - he has it all listed out. for more in-depth reading, & for diy info, go to

http://www.interlog.com/~cfraser/DIO.htm

here, you'll find everything you wanted to know about the d/io & then some. also links to where to get stuff, & a yahoo diomods site. re: that p/s, after i paid $30 to rat-shack for the stancor 3.4a p/s, i found one (atari 3.4a) at http://hosfelt.com/ for $5... ;~) you need a 9vac p/s, btw, not a vdc p/s... and, brian cheney insists that the best response is actually something like 10.4vac - he uses a couple-hundred-dollar variac to power his...

as far as benefits to the mods... well, i have all the same mods as wayne's units, except i haven't switched the connections, or the attenuator resistors. (i *have* upgraded the resistors, tho, i just didn't change their values...) i use a jon risch derived resistor attenuator set-up in a pair of star-quad pro-audio cables w/a 1/4" fone plug on one end (w/room for the two holco resistors) & an rca on the other. find the cables here:

http://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/gold/category.cgi?category=250&item=SP-RCA-PHONE&type=store

cheap, at $30/pair. if ya get 'em intending to solder in the resistors, be sure to tell them, so they won't solid-pot the 1/4" fone-plug end! :>) i have also done a mod that wayne doesn't do (yet!) - i have biased the upgraded lt1365 op-amp to run in class-a. and, there's another couple mods i may yet do - the main one being the addition of a transformer at the digital input, which is explained in detail on crag fraser's site.

with mods, the sound, good as it was, improved in all areas - the liquidity is amazing, especially considering it is digital. and, it does *not* come at the expense of detail - you can hear *everything*. the soundstage depth has great layering. there's great dynamics, bass, etc... really! ;~)

as far as your present cabling goes, if ya really wanna use your harmonic technology cables, i suggest you ditch those off-the-shelf attenuators (several folks told me they are a noticeable sonic degradation, when i inquired about using 'em), buy a pair of neutrik 1/4" fone plugs, & install 'em on to your h-t i/c's, w/the two resistors soldered in. later, if ya want to swap out the resistors internally, to acomplish the attenuation, then yank the resistors out of the cabling. or, just go for the whole enchilada all at once, either diy, or pay wayne at bolder cables... but, act fast - i think he's gonna be *very* busy for a while... ;~)

the mods really aren't that difficult - w/a 30w soldering iron, & a special desoldering iron/bulb tool available from rat-shack, you're in biz. just order up all the correct resistors, jfets, caps, etc, & have at it! :>) even *i* was able to do it! i did run into a snag, damaging a trace when pulling out one of the stock op-amps, but the folks on the diomods site pointed me in the right direction to find it, and i was able to repair it no sweat.

just *do* it! ;~)

doug s.

btw - let's not forget brian cheney & vmps - i hope to audition the rm-40s in the next week or so. this certified cheapskate may once again find the best value to be *new* vmps speakers - that certainly was the case w/my vmps subs! :>)

good luck, joe. re: soldering, really - w/a 30w iron & the $10 rat-shack desolderer, ya don't have to be an expert. as far as electronics knowledge goes, i'm basically an electronics illiterate, but i could still do it, cuz all ya have to do is follow instructions! ;~) every mod is clearly delineated as to what needs to be done... but, wayne at boldercables will do most all of 'em for ya, for $200...

regards, doug s.

re: the ctc blowtorch - way-expensive preamps may be worth something for those w/deep pockets, but i'm not so sure about expensive dac's... ;~) and, after i have a chance to audition the vmps rm-40's, i may have the same thing to say about way-expensive speakers, too! :>) actually, considering the relatively reasonable amount i paid for my melos music-director preamp, i'm not sure just *how* much way-expensive preamps really *are* worth... ;~)

brianw - i'm curious - who, besides me, has said anything negative about the class-a op-amp biasing? and, since i've fixed the broken trace from the op-amp, i have to say the mod was an improvement...

i agree that doing the internal voltage-divider mod so you can use any cables is a good thing, but you can also replace eight resistors on the board to reduce voltage - this is even better. instructions on how to calc the exact reduction you want are on a spreadsheet on the yahoo diomods site. ie: to reduce the units' output from 7v to 2.6v, replace 4.7kohm resistors r14, 15, 20, 22 w/13.3k resistors, & replace 4.7kohm resistors r16, 17, 21, 23 w/8.08k resistors. i just ordered resistors for this mod today, but w/a bit higher final output, at 3.2v. i will be yanking & replacing some resistors i just upgraded last week... ;~)

doug s.

hi bob, i in no way meant to slight your product or your efforts - i'd love to hear the blowtorch. preamps & amps (especially preamps, imo), are items that *can* be made to sound great w/lotsa time & money thrown at them... of course, it's way beyond my budget, & my comment was made cuz i really *do* think my preamp (not exactly cheap at its original retail of $4600), *is* an outstanding-sounding preamp, sonically competitive w/anything *i've* ever heard. of course, i have not had the opportunity to audition competition in my rig, where it matters most...

regards, doug s.

btw, i can't disagree w/you about your opinions of the cost of digital electronics... :>)

sorry joe, i have no problems here... what is it doing? you may also want to go to the yahoo site set up for diomods; lotsa technically-oriented folk there, who may be able to help...

doug s.

joe, you're correct that the tube warmth adjustment led's don't work w/o the tube. but, as the tube is in the adc circuit, these lights are meaningless when used as a dac only... folks have thought a possible reason why the unit may sound better w/the tube, is that it draws power away from the diodes in the adc circuit, & these, being crap, may let some unwanted signals feed back into the dac side. one of the recommended mods is replacing *all* the diodes, both dac & adc, w/schottky's, which work much better... could be part of the rfi problem you're experiencing. i'd suggest moving the dac, & the cd-player in relation to the tuna, to see if this has any effects. also, may want to put ferrite magnets on the power cords & interconnects. also, are you using any gain attenuation? the di/o, being a pro-audio product, outputs a 7v signal, while 2v is more typical of home-audio gear... i recall you mentioning using an attenuator module, mebbe this also has something to do w/the rfi...

re: getting it to sync properly, it seems to be very sensitive to the digital cabling; believe it or not, i have had great success w/the $10 rat-shack 75 ohm cable. no sync problems at all w/my nad changer. but, i'm gonna try an apogee wyde-eye pro cable. (~$25 street-price) brianw sez it's the best, short of dropping $1200 on an fim digital cable... also, the digital input resistor is 100 ohms (pro audio, again?); i replaced it w/a 75 ohm resistor. you really need to do a few tweaks to the di/o, along w/hooking up that stancor. the thing, quite good stock, really responds to these simple mods.

doug s.

steve, there seems to be a trade-off w/the toob in the circuit - you're correct that it draws power from the p/s, but it also reduces elec'l leakage (i'm sure this isn't the correct technical term!) from the adc side into the dac. best bet is to try for yourself.. some prefer it one way, some the other. if a di/o's only mod is the upgraded p/s, & internal parts haven't been replaced, i'd be inclined to leave the tube in. if lotsa mods have been done, yank the tube...

doug s.