Which SR Blue or black Fuse


Which SR Blue fuse for ARC REF 5SE? It says 5A slo/blo 250V on the fuse but no size MM?any help? Anyone had any experience with either fuse and what was the result.
dskinner5

Showing 9 responses by kosst_amojan

Get your equipment fixed if it makes and difference. And be aware those fuses could fry your gear. 
Hey... If you don't believe me about tuning fuses frying stuff, listen to a guy who's seen it.  

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/fuse-in-the-wrong-direction?page=5

Look for Ramtubes posts. 

Enjoy!
@geoffkait 

What are you talking about? Ramtubes is talking about aftermarket fuses wrecking equipment because they don't do their primary job. 

Look .. if you want to buy the snake oil and risk fruit your gear, have at it. But why spend $50 to do what a 2 cent piece of 16g wire will do? If you're not worried about killing your gear, just bridge the fuse holder with a piece of wire or bus bar. If you are worried about frying your gear, use a fuse proven to do it's job. This kind of analysis takes no brains. If you are chasing aftermarket fuses as solutions, you're just gullible. 
I've had plenty of fuses blow because my amp has a massive power supply and the most basic in-rush current limiting. I've gone through about half a dozen this year. 

If you need a reference from a tech who's fixed the damage exotic fuses have caused, talk to Ramtubes. 
@mrdecibel

I understand you’re a bit weak on electronics theory, but I’ll try to explain.

Like I said above, my amp uses very simple in-rush current limiting. In-rush current is the amount of power the amp draws when you turn it on. My amp uses nothing more than a pair of NTC CL60 thermistors to limit the in-rush. Once they’re warm they do nothing. You want to limit that because it can be a lot more power than the amp operates at. The in-rush is also very hard on rectifiers and the reservoir caps. My amp is a class A amp so it’s drawing all the power it will ever use just sitting there idling. It makes a lot of sense to fuse it as conservatively as possible to avoid damaging something more pricey that a 20 cent fuse. So... It’s not that it’s broken or poorly designed. It’s artfully simple in it’s design, as all Pass amps are. You want a fuse to be as close to popping as possible under normal use. The fact mine pop so easily indicates they’re well suited to doing their job.
@nonoise 

You're obviously not at all familiar with the First Watt products. You know... Like the J2 that got Stereophile's Amp of the Year award. Mine is a modified clone of the F5. The power supply in it is actually more muscular than what Nelson built the First Watt F5 with. The fuse pops at 300 watts like in all FW amps, but because mine runs 32V rails instead of 24V at the same 120,000uF reservoir capacitance, the in-rush current is a bit higher. All the First Watt amps will pop their fuses if you shut them off long enough to disconnect inputs then power them back on. It's just long enough to drain the PS caps, but not long enough to let the thermistors cool. 

I don't blame you for being clueless about FW amps. They're really nice amps for people looking for something different than you're typical idiot-proof production line amp. They're all hand built and adjusted by one guy; either Nelson Pass or the DIY'er who built it. Simplicity wins the day. No need for idiot-proofing here.
@nonoise 

Sorry if you've spent your life listening to mass production amps with torpid little power supplies. My amp is 31 watts per channel with a power supply rated for 400 watts per rail. Not sure what you're listening to, but I've never heard of a class AB amp that over-built. That's a 31 watt amp that won't show a clipped waveform until you reach up around 120 watts into 8 ohm. And there are guys that drop 2 of those into their amps. You'd be a complete fool not to fuse something like that conservatively. 
@nonoise 
Sorry pally, but none of those amps have power supplies as over-built to the demands of the amp as mine. Marantz has certainly never made anything that comes close. As Nelson put it, it'll drive a 2 ohm load without burping. And when you look at the numbers it's obvious why. 

@mrdecibel 
If this is your platform to sell people on fuses, then it's my platform to dissuade people from silly fuses. I just want it to be clear to the crowd that somebody with a little technical knowledge thinks this is nonsense. And I'm not the only one who gears nothing out of these goofy fuses. If having your ideas and statements scrutinized is unpleasant, perhaps exposing your ideas and statements to the world isn't the right choice. I enjoy contending with people. It makes me go out and learn things and I learn from them. But so far I haven't learned anything from the fuse folks. There's just nothing to learn. 
I gladly disparage people for placing the products of their own imaginations on par with quantitative reality. Human perception is a very whimsical thing that hardly passes for convincing evidence of anything. That's why we've invented all manner of tools for measurement. 

And I'll say it yet again... If you really think a fuse made a difference, take that gear to a shop and get that problem fixed! The power supply isn't doing what it should be doing in the slightest.