Voltage conversion from 220V to 110V.


With all the deals you see on Euro and Asian market stuff that operates on 220V its hard not to wonder is there a problem using a North American converter.

Ive got my eye on a set of Asian market mono bolck tube amps. Theyre the 220V version but theyre also about $1500 cheaper than their North American counterparts.

Can I expect any sonic problem stepping the voltage up for their requirements with a high quality converter?

What kind of converter would work best?

Thanks.
nm512
As stated above 220V is cleaner(less noise) than 110V.
The 220V lines are balanced and each of the two hot lines cancel the other one noise. My system was changed(Linn) was
changed from to 110V to 220V, by means of a switch at the back of each unit, I highly recommend the voltage change.
The sound improvement was noticeable. Hector.
The higher the frequency the more heat will be generated. the current is moving faster back and forth, 60 times a second, 60 cycle, than 50 times a second, 50 cycle.The current is alternating.I don`t know for sure if a 10 cycle per second would generate that much more heat.That is why I said I would ask the manufacture.Is the Amp rated 50\60 cycle, hertz.I would say yes if it is designed for both 120\220v 50\60 hertz. As far as RMS,the average current flow, I`m not sure if it would be different between 50 or 60 cycle. Good point on the power supply capacitance.I wonder if it would make a difference if you took a 60 hertz only piece of equiptment to a country with 220v 50 hertz, using a 220v to 120v converter,could you hear a difference?Though is`t most equiptment made in the US 50\60 hertz?
Heres the specs from the unit as per their website......I dont see where it mentions the cycle. These are tube mono blocks. I would end up running a seperate line just for the amps because the rest of my system is 100V.

Output: 50W x 2
Output impedance: 4 Ohms, 8 Ohms
Distortion: <= 1%
Frequency Response: 18Hz-30KHz +/- 0.5db
S/N: >=95db
Input Sensitivity: 550mv
Tube types: EL34 x2/ 6N8P (6SN7) x1/ 6N9P (6SL7) x1
Measurements: 460 x 204 x 188 mm
Weight: 16 Kg x2 (gross weight: 19 kg x2)
Power supply: 220-230V

I dont think there is something as simple as a switch or pin the change it otherwise the seller would mention how easy it is to switch since this seems to be affecting his selling price.
Hepl;did you just run a regular 220v power line ,to a recept and plug your Linn dirrectly in to the rececpt?When using 120v as you know you have 1 hot leg, the neutral, the grounded conductor,and equiptment ground, from your electrical panel.With the 220v source the 2hots and the equipt. grd. In countries with 220v power I wonder if they bond one leg to ground as we do in the US? Or does it float?can you see where I am going?The way you are feeding the Linn with the 220v does the power suppy see it as floating?With the 120v hook up does`nt polarity come into play for the power suppy ?
Jea48...The "neutral" (white) wire in our 110 volt system is connected to ground only back at the fuse/breaker box. In the electronic equipment the input power goes only to the transformer primary winding which is floating (not connected to ground).

There might be a pilot light needing replacement or a dropping resistor. A schematic would help, but I doubt that you would have much of a problem making the conversion.