North Creek B&W 801 crossovers? Tried them?

I realize this is an old thread, so I hope the knowledgeable parties will continue to weigh in.

I'm confused about the application of the NC external crossovers to the 801-3s, especially as regards the exchange between Tab and Ken about "changing the internal wiring". Are the NC replacement XOs designed to be plugged into the existing dual speaker inputs on the 801s without having to alter the innards of the speaker? Or do you need to go inside the speaker cabs and rip out the old stock XO for the new ones to be effective? I couldn't figure this out from the NC website and got no answer to an email inquiry.

PS, Tahoe, did you ever get the XOs, and what was the result? Thanks

Hi Bob,

I think I understand your question and will try to answer.

First...The "internal wiring" that Tab and I are were conversing about is all the wiring that runs

1) from the woofer wire on the crossover up into the cabinet and connects to the woofer and then..

2) from the woofer up into the midrange head and connects to the midrange driver.

I did not do this wiring change ( upgraded quality wire) in my set up, but left the B&W stock wiring in place. Tab also noted that B&W uses a clip connector(S2) to attach the woofer wire to the midrange wire..He felt it best to do away with this...In my S2 speaker (Anniversary model and basically a S3) it was not present,

As to the NC XO's to answer your question.

This is not really as complicted as it may sound. Basically you are disconnecting the 4 or 5 colored wires at the crossover on the speaker end.. ..then just connecting the new NC wiring by spicing into the wires where you made the cut..you just follow the color coded wires on the speaker binding post plate that match up to the existing wires with barrel crimps( supplied).The new Nc wiring runs to the new binding post plate. The plate can be mounted under the speaker. I actually left the original B&W spk binding post plate intact as you are not using it at all( You cannot replace the plate with the new NC plate as it is too big to fit in the same stock space, even though NCsays in the instructions to remove the stock plate and replace it with the NC),,,It wont fit.)..Its actually better to either attach it via a few small screws under the cabinet or let it hang behind the spkr.) Everything is cut and crimp and color coded so you really cant screw it up..Once you see the parts...you'll know how it attaches. The directions are very good.

Just another point....You could actually take the whole stock crossover off the bottom of the speaker and then just spice into the wires as noted above. I left the stock XO on the speaker in case I wanted to reconnect it back at some point,,either way and what ever is best for you though.

Hope this helps and not confuses.

Ken

Ken, thanks for the detail which I of course did not understand. Are the NC XO instructions illustrated? I can't even figure out how to open up the speaker. It seems hermetically sealed!

I'm not mechanically challenged, just completely unfamiliar with electronics. So, any idiot can do this?

Tahoe
If you never get them, you'll always wonder what could've been. As Kehut said they're easy to connect. Years ago, you had to hard-wire four boxes and pay $2400. Since you have an S3, the cheap clips have been eliminated, the iron core inductors changed to air versions and fluid cooled tweeters added. Aside from the NC's, you NEED the Soundanchors stands and Polycrystal/brass feet.