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KOETSU ROSEWOOD DILEMMA

I have an old Koetsu Rosewood Longbody from long ago. It came with a Linn LP12/Ittok, so cost nothing. But it had no stylus, and I’ve never heard it.

The stylus was sheared clean off. Some colorful fuzz was left at the scene, and forensics showed it to be red and green woolen fibers. The culprit was a clumsy audiophile in a red-and-green sweater (Christmas colors, so maybe too much egg-nog) who snagged the diamond in his cuff.

Despite the violence, the cantilever is perfect — straight and true, with a beautifully beveled flat tip for seating the stone and setting SRA. It’s not hole-through, so probably was an adhesive-only bond. Coils are fine. Suspension seems fine — sitting on a stationary LP at the right VTF, it rides just right, not low nor high — and compliance feels in the right ballpark. All in all it’s very clean, and produces sound. There’s no erosion of the gold plating, so it may have been newish. 91447 is carved into the aluminum, and an “S” — does S indicate a “signature” model?

Is it worth retipping?

As you can see, I know nothing, so any suggestions are welcome, even negative ones, especially from those who know the cartridge, and have experience with retipping.

My intention now is to keep the boron rod and just add a diamond — it should be quite close to the original sound — but I’m open to change. Installing a new cantilever+stylus is easier and less expensive, but the resulting sound is an unknown, maybe better, maybe not, maybe not Koetsu. Why have a Koetsu if it doesn’t sound like one?

Stylus-type is an issue too. I can’t even find what the original stylus was, I believe a type of hyper-elliptical. I think a fancier cut would add detail but not alter the sound otherwise, but might be wrong.

So — as I know nothing, and my few ideas may be wrong, guidance is needed.


bimasta
bimasta's avatar
bimasta OP
158 posts
 
The ONLY options are to send it to Koetsu or buy a new cartridge.

Have Koetsu do the work. No brainer
Nandric mentioned earlier: "Price, you know, is also of some consideration." I share his view. Are we the only two, Nandric?

But I have a larger issue. Assuming I get the Koetsu working, I’ll face another decision — what tonearm? I own three candidates than seem to be suitable in terms of eff mass, rigidity, bearing quality and adjustment, etc — the Rosewood, according to VE, is very low-compliance: 5 x 10-6cm/Dyne.

The arms are Linn Ittok, Syrinx PU3, Odyssey (penultimate iteration). Both Odyssey and PU3 were dealer-demos, so very little use, and proper use by skilled people, i.e. almost new. The Ittok is more experienced, but in fine shape, passes the swing-test with flying colors, etc.

Of course I can just try all three and decide. But all 3 are fixed-headshell, not easy to mount cartridges, and that’s when damage is most likely to occur. So I hope the first arm I try is "the one", and maybe you can help me here too — especially if you’ve used a Koetsu on any of these arms.

Which should I try first?

Gain stage will be Audio Interface CST/80II SUT first, with an EMT/Thorens active head-amp as an alternative.

[I wish I could post photos of the arms here, but that doesn’t seem possible.]
terry9
931 posts
 
A few considerations:
1. I understand that Koetsu will not service any cartridge that has been touched by someone else; so if you send it elsewhere, it will never again be a Koetsu.
2. One difference between a Rosewood and a Signature is the quality of the rosewood - aged 20 years for a Signature. You already have that!
3. I’m almost certain that you would be getting a Rosewood or, more likely, a Signature rebuild. Just can’t imagine Koetsu treating a classic like that with contempt.
4. One way to make absolutely sure that you get a fine rebuild is to specify platinum magnets. That’s the best modern Koetsu technology. Costly, but worth it. To me.

I have a Koetsu too - and when it’s time comes, I plan to send it back to the factory.
fourwnds's avatar
fourwnds
261 posts
 
I wouldn't mess around with the retip based on my own experience. Send it back to Koetsu and you know it'll BE a Koetsu. But then again you don't know what it supposed to sound like so maybe that would be fine to. For the cost of my retip fail plus the expense of the same cart to replace I was dollar wise pretty close to being able to pick up The Statement v2 on an exchange. Might be more cost effective in long run to cough up the extra up front. 
nandric's avatar
nandric
3,263 posts
 

We all think in the same way but have different assertions which

we use as premises. The first logical rule is that wrong or

false premise can never lead to true conclusions.

The most believe that the stylus is the most important part

so the fear about ''hours of use'' determine our preference

for new or second hand. But one should look at this unclear

notion of ''refurbishing'' from the retipper situation. What parts

he has in his stock, what parts are available and not available

to him. The ''rubber ring'' or suspension, for example , is

more important than stylus shape. The same apply for the

cantilever not to mention coils. No retipper will mess with

coils. If the coils of your cart are defective forget repair

possibility. Think of those ''rubber rings''. How many kinds

are available to a particular retipper? Can carts be ''tuned''

without suspension?

Ergo: the least ''harmful'' repair is the stylus exchange.

@bimasta, you mentioned that your Koetsu has ''perfect''

cantilever. Post your cart to ''Expert stylus'' in UK their

''Paratrace'' stylus is an version of micro ridge. Their

retipper Mr. Hodgson is engineer with 40 years of experience.

nandric's avatar
nandric
3,263 posts
 

Addition. "Expert stylus'' procedure is that one first need

to agree about his turn (> waiting list). After inspection by

Mr. Hodson one will get an report about the cart state and

then decide what kind of recommended work to order.  

The ''inspection fees''  are 30 GBP.  The customer is free

to decide according to his wishes.

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