Which SR Blue or black Fuse

If you’re foolish enough to waste good money on boutique fuses, add an additional real fuse in line with the boutique fuses so there’s some real protection. Boutique fuses aren’t UL or CSA approved or tested in any meaningful way.

PADIS fuses are UL, PSE and SEMKO approved and they are "boutique" fuses.

 duh

All the best,
Nonoise

three_easy_payments, kosst_amojan, analogluvr, mrdecibel, and anyone who I might have missed,

Thanks for responses. I believed fuses may blow, they would not be putting them in otherwise, but was wondering how common that really is. I guess more common than I observed. Maybe mrdecibel and I are simply lucky.

@glupson

In my case the blown fuse was a little bit of user error as well as a little manufacturer error.  I was listening pretty loud when I switched on the fly from the triode to UL, instantly doubling the watts.  Later in discussing with the manufacturer, they recommended using a 4 amp fuse instead of the 3 amp fuse that came with the amp stating that you can usually get away with a 3 amp fuse but switching surges can sometimes pop the 3 amp.  Since then I always reduce the volume when switching from triode to UL and have never had a problem since, even with a 3 amp fuse.

I never had a fuse blow in all my years in this hobby. 

All the best,
Nonoise

@mrdecibel

I understand you’re a bit weak on electronics theory, but I’ll try to explain.

Like I said above, my amp uses very simple in-rush current limiting. In-rush current is the amount of power the amp draws when you turn it on. My amp uses nothing more than a pair of NTC CL60 thermistors to limit the in-rush. Once they’re warm they do nothing. You want to limit that because it can be a lot more power than the amp operates at. The in-rush is also very hard on rectifiers and the reservoir caps. My amp is a class A amp so it’s drawing all the power it will ever use just sitting there idling. It makes a lot of sense to fuse it as conservatively as possible to avoid damaging something more pricey that a 20 cent fuse. So... It’s not that it’s broken or poorly designed. It’s artfully simple in it’s design, as all Pass amps are. You want a fuse to be as close to popping as possible under normal use. The fact mine pop so easily indicates they’re well suited to doing their job.