2 REL Strata Subs and Mono amps

Hifigeek,
Many thanks.
It's just so frustrating to get no tech support from AR after so many years as an owner of MANY of their products, and, having had such good customer service over the years.

I guess nothing stays the same.
Other than audiophiles supporting one another.

Happy New Year to you as well.
All the best.

J Dolgin

Very nice, guys, I learned a lot from you last 24h...

Al, I think I was told everything I needed in this particular situation that I simply did not know. Tnx once again. I am gonna write to Krell these days...

Vladimir, my main speakers right now is a pair of B&W 805S, but this is a temporary solution rather than long-term choice. When budget allows, I will probably go with higher class speaker - Focal Utopia Diablo, for instance (use to own Utopia Micro Be - fabulous speaker), maybe Dynaudio Confidence C1, but - addressing to your question - whatever I choose, it will be a standmount, almost for sure (room size issue). Certain possibilities to try Magnepan 3.7 pannels, which deeply impressed me, but I am sceptical due to room size (15x15).

Thanks, Hifigeek. Jdolgin, descriptions I found of the VM220 indicate pretty clearly that it is fully balanced. However, as Hifigeek's comments make clear, the fact that it is a tube amplifier having an output transformer introduces still more variables and unknowns into the already "confusing mess" which you aptly described.

I've seen some older ARC schematics, such as this one for the fully balanced VT130, showing circuit ground as being connected to the 4 ohm output tap of the amp, rather than the common (black) terminal, and with circuit ground and chassis ground being connected to each other through a 10 ohm resistor.

*If* Hifigeek determines that the design of the VM220 is similar in those respects, I think that you could connect the black wire to the 4 ohm output terminal of the amp, and the red and yellow wires to the 8 ohm terminal.

Alternatively, assuming that is how the design is implemented, you could connect the black wire to the 4 ohm output terminal, and the red and yellow wires to the common (negative) terminal. Doing that would introduce a 180 degree phase reversal between the sound produced by the sub and by the main speakers, which you would correct for with the sub's phase reversal switch, assuming it provides one. Doing it that way would result in the sub receiving a somewhat (about 8 db) greater signal level than if you were to connect between the 4 and 8 ohm terminals.

But we'll see what Hifigeek determines.

Regards,
-- Al

Amazing....how complex the solution can be for a seemingly simple question.
Oh well, I guess in the hiigh end game NOTHING is ever simple.
Thanks everyone.
jdolgin

Zormi, I normally don't suggest components unless the poster asks or presents alternatives himself. In your case, I would suggest giving a good listening to the Confidence C1 IIs at about half the Diablo's price. In my humble opinion they are among the best standmounts ever, for several reasons: deep and controlled bass enough even for medium-sized rooms, a soundstage that includes height reproduction, something rare among non-tower speakers (even Vandersteen 5s and 7s, as well as highly rated standmounts such as Raidhos don't do it), and all around sound as good as anything at two or three times the price. The C1 IIs definitely don't need a crossover, just augment their already impressive bass with your RELs at about 30Hz or a bit below.

By the way, I checked the Gibraltar manual online and on page 12 it explains the way to connect to differential amplifiers such as your Krells, basically to connect the black Speakon wire to a chassis screw as was explained by others here. That's also how Nelson Pass suggest doing it with his balanced amplifiers, and he provides another set of ground posts just for that.