Tweaks for EMM CDSA SE ... ?

Yes, thank you Sabai. I am still considering my options too (including just playing around with power cords).
It is amazing how much power makes a difference in tonal quality, especially in the bass and high treble).
The changes with power input are just as large as interconnects make. Good luck and I would love to hear your findings.

Rgs92, I agree, cabling can make a huge difference. I have also found that the particular plug and IEC you choose (if you are doing DIY work like I do) can change everything. You may note that a couple of the highest end SR plugs used to come from Oyaide -- one was the 079. I think SR are developing their own plugs now -- the G07 being the new one. I can report a change that I made to my system yesterday that astonished me. I had my Gabriel Gold Reflection power cord connected from my power conditioner to my EMM CDP. On a whim I connected it from my Tesla Plex into my power conditioner -- replacing an SR Master Coupler terminated with Oyaide plug and IEC -- and I plugged the EMM into the power conditioner using the Master Coupler. This has made a HUGE difference in resolution, dynamics and sound stage. Of course, my cabling configuration will change when I add the SR PowerCell 10SE to my system next month. So you may not have to double down with an X upgrade PLUS a PowerCell 10SE to get great results. Yes, cabling and plugs have sometimes made such a huge change in my system that they made it sound like a new component was added to the system or that one of my components was upgraded.

I too own a Emm Labs CDSA-SE ( metal transport ) and also using a SR Powercell 10SE and SR Mig's( pinpoint config). I'm using Mig's under all of my equipment including the 2 DD-18 subs to great effect. Sold the cerebase & all the stillpoints.

I also recomend changing the fuse on the CDSA-SE to a Furutech T2A. I sorted my GREEN Furutech 20mm fuse from Asia because only the blue one's are avaliable in Europe. The Green Furutech fuses are TRUE Furutech and sounds much better than the newer blue version ( made by PADIS .)

I've Furutech nano fluid all connections including fuse caps.

Another tweek being very good is to directly place a HRS small damping plate on top of the transport inside and another one on the top cover. This stops most of the vibration from the transport itself when spinning the disc. You can litually hear the difference.

I've tried a few top power cords and settled with the great Tara Labs Colbalt.

Hope this helps.

Flashunlock, thanks very much for all this information. Very interesting. I have the 230-volt EMM. It looks like I would have to buy the blue fuse -- the big or the small? Would the results be better than the fuse in the EMM? I use a silk cushion (waiting to be replaced by MiGs) under my EMM and 4 Totem beaks in diamond configuration on the top. The results are not subtle. I would like to know more about how your EMM sounds with the PowerCell. What MPC are you using -- the standard or the Galileo? How are resolution, dynamics and sound stage?

Sabai,

You're welcome. Try get the GREEN Furutech T2A fuse. The size is 20mm x 5mm and throw away the cheap glass fuse Emm provided. You will get a greater sence of focus, more layers, dynamics and resolution. If your system have valves in the chain, maybe try the HiFi Tuning Silver Star fuse as it will give you a bit more snap/ prat.

I'm using the SR Galileo MCP just on the Powercell 10SE and no where else as I've found it sounding a bit too laid back on the Precision AC cable for the Powercell and other SR cables. What you will get from the 10-SE is a bigger sound stage is the 1st thing you'll notice and everything else improves.... do use up all the 10 sockets as the more you use from the 10SE, the better it sounds. I have my AV, all of my two channel system plugged to it without any current limitation.

Do try the Mig's as they will knock your socks off.
I'm also using a set of SR ART system as well as a extra set of SR ART Basik.

Hope this helps and you can E-mail me for more info. :)