Re-tipped cartridges

I recently had my Benz LP retipped by SoundSmith, and I am very pleased with the job. Since the cartridge had not been used for several months before I sent it off, I can't say for sure that it sounds identical to the stock Benz, but I am not aware of any differences.

My Benz had Peter's "retip only" which costs more since it is more difficult to attach a new tip to the existing cantilever. However, that is what he recommended and I think the results speak for themselves. As far as I can tell, I have a brand new Benz LP that is fully equal to what I started with. Considering that Musical Surroundings says Benz is no longer offering their own factory rebuild program, SoundSmith is truly providing an essential service.

It is difficult to fathom the degree of misinformation on fundamental things in this forum. Peter Lederman of SS will only keep the existing cantilever and bond a new stylus onto it at great additional expense, if he agrees to do it in the first place. The degree of labor and precision required to fit a new stylus onto the existing cantilever is exponential compared to taking a pre-fabbed (if you will) cantilever/stylus and mounting it, which is labor intensive enough The vast majority of retips done by Peter involve a replacement of the cantilever stylus with one of three combinations he offers. All one has to do is look at his website to see this. That said, one of my two Benz Gliders S Los that I sent to Peter to be re-tipped with his mid-level combo ($250) sounds better than it did brand new out of the box from Benz. Why that is, who knows. I have another Benz Glider that sounds fantastic and equal to the SS re-tipped one, and it is OEM out of the box. One can only presume that much of it has to do with sample to sample product variation.

I know someone who sent a Benz to be retipped. Retipper replied no wear, but diamond mounted askew ex factory. Retipper remounted the factory diamond - now sounds better than new.
Re the work involved - I cant see how it is easier to change cantilever and diamond vs the diamond only. I have seen the Garrott Bros at work - Brian could remove a diamond and replace it in about 15-20 seconds. There is no way you could do a complete cantilever/diamond in this time. The only caveat with replacing diamonds is the risk of fracturing boron/beryllium/ruby cantilevers.

The 'retip' in the past consisted in replacing the stylus only. The quality was dependant of the 'quality' of the master or his craftmanship. Since the manufacturers produce the cantilevers with styli already fitted the 'retip' become the substitution of the old cantilever/ stylus combo with the new one. This work is more easy to do and is consequently cheaper. The real question is this: how much glue is used in both alternatives? Or, to put this question otherwise, is the stylus better fitted by
the manufacturer or the cart repair service? Then the added question is which repair service can or will do this job and at what cost.
Dover's story imply that by the so called 'exotic' cantilevers the retipper need to use small diamonds and more glue in order to prevent 'fracturing' of the cantilever. But between this diamond and the cantilever there is glue and hardly direct contact between them.
As J. Carr explained in this thread the advantage of aluminum cantilever is exactly 'there'. The stylus can be pressure fitted without any glue.

Regards,

i had my lyra argo i done recently as a retip, it cost $450 compared to the $350 for the ruby cantilever, diamond tip. i wanted to hear what a lyra sounded like in my system. answer: pretty good.