Lost sheep, Back to LP Turntable: buy guidance


I had an oppourtunity to aquire an old unused LP collection recently and decided to jump on it. They look like they sat unused and uncovered, for at least 30+ years. A bit smelly, and moldy jackets hiding pristine LPs. I bought them, even though I had no ability to play them.
So far I have aquired a wonderful Audio Research PH1 phono, and am using a borrowed Dual 502. I am transfixed and my enjoyment of the music on these LPs is more than I had hoped for.
I am currently using a pair of Maggie MG-IIB and a Forte 4a amp, Kimber silver interconnects, an Adcom 7?? pre and the Audio Research PH1... (until I can retip my AQ midnight speaker cables, I am using ten guage twisted pair automotive wire and super cheap bananas EEEK!)
What TT??
I am leaning to a used Rega Planar 3 with the 300 series tonearm. The newer Music Hall MMF-5 and 7 also look appealing. (however I am a big believer in using stuff where the manufacturer has been around, and will be around) So I wonder if the Music Hall is an overnight balloon?? or not?
With my system, should I wait and go better? Like a VPI Aries Scout?
(I don't need cable advice, I got cables down)
And don't even start in on cartridges! But I would have a preference for a (slight) lower midrange, upper bass bloom in a cartridge, I mean just a tiny hint vs a lean sounding cartridge. And a clear top end, with no exaggeration, all for $200 to $300 (cartridge, new or used) Cartridges are a giant vacuum in my Audiophillia type knowledge...
You suggestions, praise (for coming in out from the 'dark side' ...from ugh, CDs... ),comments, warnings, dark forbodings, appreciated.
elizabeth
Sean, when I have my audio room setup and my 1200 fully modded I will invite ewe to come listen to the creature. Robert of Ridge Street Audio will do the rewiring and the interconnect replacement. Too bad ewe don't like fish--there's plenty of fresh walleye and perch where I live now!

In the meantime, give Kevin Barrett a call http://www.kabusa.com and he'll explain you why the 1200 does not cog. He'll also explain (technically) why he believes the 1200 to be the best deck out there, dollar for dollar and why he's worked on designing the fluid damper, the power supply and the modded Groovemaster II.

The 1200 is extremely resistant to vertical vibrations, but not to lateral. I have a plan of attack for that. I will make a frame made of Moca wood to act as a barrier.

I know--I wish the SP10 was still made...
I think the 1200 is a decent sounding DD deck. However, I don't agree that it is better than a decent belt drive. Yes, I am fully aware of the inherent problems in both systems. I have done comparisons, and I always liked the decent belt drive better, although I admit, that it may have something to do with my personal preferences in sound.

Heavy platters would be a good benefit to either of these systems, because of some deficiencies in both drive designs. Most good belt drive tables go to this in order to smooth out the rotational stability. The inertia of the platter does help in this regard - greatly. Unfortunately, most DD tables resort to quartz-locked speed controls and light platters which "hunt" constantly, and create more flutter which is more easily discerned by the ear. The problems in the belt drive tables result in a much lower frequency "wow" which is less discernable and therefore less objectionable to the listener. Yes, I have read the IAR article which devotes about 5 pages to the ills of various belt drive systems. The specs listed for turntables always combine "wow and flutter" together and show some percentage of them combined, such as W&F- 0.8%. However if the flutter component is 0.7% and wow only 0.1%, that table will have more audible performance objections than a table whose main component is low frequency wow, and only 0.1% flutter. So there is more here than meets the eye on a spec sheet. It is not so much that one is more accurate than the other, but in which ways it is inaccurate. The inaccuracies that are less discernable to the ear, will provide better sounding listening because the ear is not noticing them as much as the other type of inaccuracies.

I'm sure that Kevin is very knowledgable, but all AC motors cog, and all quartz locked speed controls hunt, and light platters make it worse. Motor vibrations in DD systems do enter the platter because the platter is part of the motor.

Belt drives have "wind-up and release" with rubber belts. They have issues with interaction of the suspension with the drive system. If they use AC motors, then they also cog. If they have automatic speed controls, then they also hunt. What I have selected is a heavy platter to keep the rotational inertia as stable as possible. I have selected a DC motor with no cogging. I use a belt made from Spectra, which has absolutely no stretch, and is a pain to keep tensioned. My motor speed control is microprocessor controlled, to make speed corrections over several revolutions of the platter, so as not to be as audible as other types(no fast hunting). It is optically coupled with a strobe pattern on the platter so that drift is immediately recognized(<0.1%) and correction applied slowly and gently, at the minimum amounts possible. I have no suspension to interact with the drive system. I place the motor "kitty corner" to the arm pivot to make all motor vibrations that may reach the platter, are in the plane of motion that the cartridge does not sense. In short, I recognize the possible problems and choose systems that deal with those in an effective way.

In the end, it is up to the listener to decide which he likes the best. If that is the criteria, then the listener has made up his mind for his own use, and that is the important thing. I like belt drives. Francisco likes direct drives. Fine. As long as we are both happy with our sound, then it really doesn't matter which type we use. I found long ago that nothing is perfect. Not speakers, not amps, and not turntables. Our choices are largely based upon what problems we can more easily accept in our listening tastes. Different products have different weaknesses. Assembling a system that has fewer of the problems that you, as a listener, are sensitive to, will yield a better sounding system - to you. I think that this is what it really comes down to.

That being said, I think it is great that users can promote their various likes and dislikes about the equipment designs. It is helpful to others who are trying to make buying decisions to hear various points of view. I am probably one of the most vocal and opinionated people on this forum. I certainly think that it is good that we can express our views on these subjects.

I still think belt drives are better. :^) LOL!
Elizabeth, this is how I look at things: I believe audio has "quantum leaps". One might have a component that is better than another, but how much better? For example, our beloved Forté 4. There are certainly better amps, but how much would we have to spend in order to get something *significantly* better? That's my point.

Regarding TTs, I believe it's the 1200 and then the Teres. I would not consider anything else in between. Now I saw this beast in eBay last night:

EMT

This is a rim drive! Bill Parish of GTT Audio does not sell TTs but uses one EMT and a Micro Seiki in his audio salon. You can see the pictures of the EMT used in the Strereophile show. He must have reasons not to use belt drives...

Tom, once someone gets used to proper speed and rotational stability it's easy to pick up the difference. If you had a cheaper belt drive in your rig next to your Teres you'd immediately notice the loss in PRAT. VPI gives us a great example, as their top TT uses a massive stainless steel flywheel in order to keep proper speed and rotational stability. I wouldn't mind to have that beast--not at all. Just remember your cherished vinyl recordings were cut with a DD TT.

In my case, I was accustomed to listen to the big DDs since I started in 1977: Technics SP10, Micro Seiki, the big Yamaha's. In spite of the inherent disadvantages, the DDs had that authority of musical presentation. Now that I'm older and wiser I see that sound is closer to the positive attributes of CDs and makes my system sound more uniform. I simply like it...
Tom, I forgot to add this: the 1200's motor is DC. Kevin has developed an outboard power supply in order to further improve the speed and rotational stability and to eliminate the vibrations caused by the internal transformer, which get worse as it ages. I think it's going to sell for less than $200, so when you add up, you're getting the new TT, tonearm fluid damper and power supply for less than $900. Nice--real nice.

You should get a few 1970's salsa records and check out what a real audio obstacle course sounds like. Salsa is extremely demanding on any audio system. Lak has a reality check anytime I play my music in his 5W system!!!

Sean: the 1200's platter is very heavily damped on the underside and has a very thick rubber mat. In my case, I have found that placing a Bob Regal foot next to the tonearm gimbal helps with vibration and improving clarity. I also have an old Canadian made Music Mat, which is really good, too!
Francisco, c'mon. Are you really trying to say that there is nothing worth considering between a 1200 and a Teres?