B&W 804s + Atma-Sphere M60 MkIII.2

Michel,

I don't use a Zero with the S30 and the 16 ohm Zu's as the Zu's impedance appears ideal for the S30. However there is a body of thought that it might sound better still thru a Zero at 2x looking at an impedance of 32 ohms. I'm happy with my situation as it is.

The Zero is really intended for your kind of situation where you enjoy your existing speakers but the 3 ohm impedance is not ideal for the amps you would like to pair it with. With the Zero you are adding wire and a passive device between the amp and speaker but in situations where it's needed the positives appear to far outweigh the negative.

Regarding changing your speaker, thats a whole other ball game. If you enjoy the B&W's keep them and find an amp that does what your looking for with them.

Lew,

Wasn't trying to steer anybody anywhere. Just trying to answer a technical question of the OP regarding using an OTL with a speaker with a significant impedance dip.
As an aside, it's great that you and your buddy are getting great results with the MC275 driving speakers with low impedance dips. It's a testimony to the excellence of the output transformer and power supply. Even though the output transformer has multiple taps the amp is still "seeing" the impedance dip of the speaker. The question is, would it sound better still with the Zero in place?

Good luck making your choices.

Lewinskih01, I’ve never had this impression that you were steering me toward MC275. It is a wonderful amp and no wonder it has been around for more than a half century! Contrary to that, I appreciate your sharing experience and as always I would like to learn more on audio setting stuff, it is kind of endless passion to improve sound quality and enjoy more from the music. By next week, I plan to ask MC dealer if I could have a MC275 for a week or so for a test drive!
The comparison was not really between Tannoy Canterbury vs. 804D. They are on different leagues and price ranges. I meant regarding price tag of T. Canterbury, I was anticipating to get more sonic features, like placement/precision and better distinguishing of instruments in orchestra, more depth behind speakers, more imaging on two sides of speakers rather than in front. I bought it as used locally and placed them per se professionally with some help. Of course tastes are different when it comes to listing preferences.

Francks, As for Zero T. on amps, there is this Graff Gm100 amp which functions as hybrid OTL! It seems they use kind of zero T. for accommodating low impedance speakers. A friend of mine (back in EU) has this one and she is very happy with it. I am not sure if Graff audio is in business any more.

As my wife complains, changing audio gears and never totally been satisfied with our choices is more than a passion, it is an addiction! I would add, it is a positive addiction…

Cheers,
Michel.

Thx, Lewinskih01. I am interested because my Ref 3A Supremas have passive subs and I have always wondered if I should drive the sub cabinets with a stereo or mono signal, downstream from an active crossover/bass management device.

Swampwalker,

I wasn't aware the Supremas had passive subs. There is still an argument for adding independent subs: a) the more bass sources in the room, the flatter the bass response (again, per Earl Geddes); b) the optimal bass drive placement is not necessarily the best speaker placement.

BTW, what do you drive your Supremas with? I've been toying with the idea of Grand Veenas with my MC275. Upgrading speakers is not really my next step, but when I day-dream I think about speakers. My speakers are the components that have been with me the longest.

Michel, and Franks,

I apologize as it seems my post was not clearly written. I was not insinuating Franks was steering Michel in any direction whatsoever. Didn't mean to.

The comment about steering someone and being well behaved was a way of making fun of myself, as I was being objective in answering questions, but down deep I was also interested in having comments from someone who could compare the sound differences between a Canterbury and an 804. I know they are in different leagues, but I understand their sound signature is different and I would benefit from some input. Logistics make it impossible for me to audition a Canterbury. Along the lines of the post above, testimony of my sporadic day-dreaming with speakers.

Maybe I should stick to speaking about the subs? :-)