Right channel cuts out Please Help


I have a Portal Audio Panache and a Arcam cd72T. I have never had one bit of a problem with either of these devices since I have owned them.

Today I listened to about 3 cds while doing some homework and all of a sudden the right channel cut out completely. I went to see what had happened, but couldnt figure what the heck it could be. I checked the speaker cables quickly and the
interconnects. All seemed to be snuggly fit. I moved the balance control from side to side, and then the volume up and down, nothing. Then it just came back to life. There seemed to be no channel imbalance or distortion.
rtilbury
So it has happened 2 times all together. I am hoping it may be because of a heat problem, or a cable. It seems strange for such a new amp to have capacitor problems. Since there are 4 caps per channel, wouldnt it be rare for all to fail? Maybe it is because I leave the amp on 24/7. One thing that is strange is that I had turned the amp of the night before this happened for the second time within the last 4 months...
I suggest to inspect the ground path throughout all components interconnects and speaker wires for quality connection.

Also if you have three-prong powercord try using a cheater plug (from RadioShack) as your right channel shut-
down may be caused by the ground noise believe it or not.

Follow up with us.
I have unplugged all cables, re-plugged them in. I have changed my interconnect cables to some Cardas. It has done it 5 times since. It doesn't stay cut out for long enough it seems to get my headphones, plug them in and check to see if they are doing the same. But I was able to check different sources, a cd player and a DVD player. The right channel still was cut out no matter what source.

What is the deal!!
I've had the same problem, but with the left channel of my Creek amp. The next time you get the same cut-out in the right channel, try connecting headphones and changing the music source. If the right headphone channel is still out, it's certainly not the speaker cables and probably not the ICs. Try pushing the power cable into the amp as hard as you can, hold it for a few seconds and see if the channel comes back. I tried it and my left channel came back to life, so I then tried using the stock power cable that came with the amp and it worked perfectly. The problem may be that the female IEC connector in the power cable is not tightly gripping the prongs of the amp. When the amp draws lots of current, the prongs heat up and the connection may be loosening. I live in NYC and all electrical wiring is already grounded under Code requirements, so I don't think it's a ground loop problem for me. I'm going to try disassembling the IEC connector assembly of my "high end" cable myself and tightening the connection. (Perversely, it's usually the "high end" component that causes the problems.) I hope it works. In any event, try using a basic power cord, like Radio Shack or your stock cord, and see if you still have a problem.
Rtilbury,

It's not any of the caps, as a shorted one would burst, or tax the power supply section enough to blow the AC input fuse. Not the power cord because the other chnl works fine, which is connected internally to the same AC input connection. If you have conventional speaker cables, and the speaker does work without intermitent static from loose connections, then it's not at fault either.

Nothing during playback indicated any differences in speaker sound, giving suspect to network or driver shorts?
When you swapped speaker cabling, the now "left" speaker chnl quit as well?

Have you crossed (not swapped) the interconnect cables into the Portal, thus identifying a suspect CD player chnl.? Try this as well, with all the original cabling configuration.

If applicable within your amp, there might be a protection relay being switched for several reasons. One application would be from a faulty or incorrect thermal sensor located internally on right heatsink. Next time the Rt chnl cuts out, rush over to the chassis and listen/feel for mechanical relay actuation. Again, this won't reveal the problem, but confirms issues with the amp.

Keep us posted...