Hegel Amplifiers


Tried asking this on various forums, but did not get enough information. If anyone visited the recent audio fests and have listened to Hegel amps - especially the H20 - please describe how you found the sound of the Hegel amps. Any comparison? This is one amp I have shortlisted besides the Parasound A21. Also considering Classe 2200. Did not hear any particular one.
Any feedback is appreciated.
128x128milpai
Hi Rafael,

I am aware of the H2O you mentioned. Here is the H20 I am talking about: http://www.hegel.com/h20.htm

H20 VS H2O :-)

What I intend to find out is - Is the Hegel H20 worth the premium over Parasound A21 at more than two times the cost of the Parasound? I know that I cannot go wrong with the A21. I have not come across one user experience that dismisses these amps as "bad". Most people consider them as "not as good as the ultimate", which is a very good thing for the price they command.

Class D is something I considered before (W4S, NuForce, CIA, etc). But looks like they might not go as well with a TVC, as a regular class AB amp would go.
BTW, The Hegel H20 is true balanced and delivers more current compared to the A21 (130amps vs 60amps). I don't think the A21 is true balanced. A true balanced amp would make a positive impact in my system(I believe - but I may be wrong), as the TVC is true balanced. I don't know how much of a difference the "current" ratings would make.
My panels are fused at 4amps. Even if the low end draws another 4, that is 8 total. And Maggies are considered current hogs. 60 amps? 130 amps? What's the diff? And, FWIW, what is the voltage at the mythical 60 amps? 5v? 10v?

a poorly designed 'balanced' circuit will be worse off than a conventional circuit properly executed.

more less than meaningful specsmanship.
Magfan,
I am trying to understand technical stuff here. And that is why I mentioned that I do not know what "ampere ratings" mean. Please do explain about voltage and how voltage and current figures affect a speaker's performance. Would like to know more about this topic.

Thanks,
Strictly my Opinion. Peak Ampere ratings are near-real world- meaningless.
NO speaker can take such current.

Output devices, as near as I understand, have what is called a 'safe operating range'. Go out of that envelop, and the devices either fuses or shorts. Either way, you are out of action. A fuse may not be quick enough and therefore speaker protection circuits, if employed should take that into account.
From Wikipdia::
Safe operating area
The safe operating area defines the combined ranges of drain current and drain to source voltage the power MOSFET is able to handle without damage. It is represented graphically as an area in the plane defined by these two parameters. Both drain current and drain to source voltage must stay below their respective maximum values, but their product must also stay below the maximum power dissipation the device is able to handle. Thus the device cannot be operated at both its specified maximum drain current and maximum drain to source voltage. [2]

So, if you redline a device in current, you have to have lower voltage so as not to exceed wattage.

Now, forget all this nonsense and buy whatever pleases your ears. Any particular build philosophy has both good and bad implementations. Class (?) is no guarantee of anything. Specsmanship is for ad writers to compare what's in there pants.