Snake oil and tweaks that work!

not sure if this is a tweak,but I recently bought a couple folding bar
stools at Walmart for 11 bucks each and using for speaker stands
for my bookshelf B&Ws .......24" to seat and with Cassandra Wilson
Glamoured glamouring as we speak I have to pat myself on the back ...if I could reach.  Crazy.

Im  always skeptical about tweeks, but the Sub Dude isolation platforms by Gramma are a huge improvement .   Especially if you have hardwood floors....   it totally eliminated any rattle and boom and bass is tight .  

Thanks, for the explanation E. I get the picture. Had wondered what the impact on temperature might be (which you addressed). Found some sheets of the black stuff on Amazon. Not very expensive, either.

In addition to your usages, I am wondering about using it to help with static buildup on LPs.  Fix a small piece to the turntable plinth and have this in light contact with the side of the turntable platter itself.  Stick a drain wire in it connected to TT ground.

Thanks again.

The basic idea is to fully stuff the innards of the case with the foam, and make certain to ground the foam to the case.
Alternatives would be to cover the circuit board..
I used small baggies and cut up the foam the most fully conform to the topology of the interior, using more than one baggie if needed.
Particularly trying to get foam on top of any chips on the boards, layering the foam kind of inverted pyramid style in the baggies, filling up the space, And then connecting all the baggies with thin wire to ground to the chassis.
The idea is to soak up the stray RFI EMF emanating from the chips so it cannot affect the other parts of the electronics.
On the first DAC I took the board off and placed a thin layer of carboard (the wires sticking under poking the baggies would short, so I used a paper card stock and put antistatic foam under. The second DAC the circuits were too much to lift, so i skipped that part, and it did not much matter anyway. So do just the top side and it works fine.

I have used this in both DAC and CD player. the CD player was not so effective.
The DAC well worth the time to do.
The player does not seem any hotter for it either.
I have some even in my SP-15 preamp around, and I tried a bit in a VAC Standard. Does not do a lot there. So mainly DACs.

If you find blue foam or the pink stuff, that is not good. (lots of white stuff around now, I have no idea if it will work well) Use the dark grey or black antistatic foam Originally I used Radio Shack 6" squares 1/4" thick. Then I found an industrial supply and bought 3 sheets 36" by 24" 1/4" thick. From fooling around I used that all up! (sadly to not much good. So I say stick to the DAC as the most effective use)
But for one project i would go with Amazon or eBay. Best to Google the words "black antistatic foam" at Google site to find a seller, Amazon search engine sucks.. So use Google.

@elizabeth - Am interested in knowing more about this antistatic tweak. Specifically, how large a piece do use and what sonic benefits did you realize?  Thanks

I have a tweak no one else uses..
Back years ago in Stereophile a fellow mentioned trying antistatic foam inside digital components.
I first used it in a DAC and it helped. I transferred the stuff to another DAC I still use.
I bought Radio Shack 6" sheets of black antistatic foam.
Later I bought large sheets from a manufacturer.
The foam has to be insulated from the circuit board.. And best if the foam is grounded to the chassis. I use little baggies and inserted the foam into them. And used a wire to ground the foam. Just stuck the bare end into the foam poked through the baggie.

I have mentioned this tweak for YEARS.. no one has tried it (or at least reported back on it?)

Another tweak, (and also mentioned in Stereophile some time back) but requires a special device. Is to raise the incoming AC frequency going into the components.
This works too. I use a PS Audio P-600 with the optional board to change the frequency. I run it at 110Hz instead of 60Hz and just use it on my digital equipment.

jaybe,

Yes, I would say the effects are similar. They both lower the noise floor, and work well together. I found the iQSEs work best when placed close to a power transformer. Inside the chassis, if possible/practical, but they still work well placed on the outside. I currently have 6 in my system. I added them one by one, and heard further improvements each time, so be prepared, if you go down that road 😉

@tommylion 

Do you find the Bybees and Gutwire to have similar effects? I am using the Gutwire now.

My favs over the past 25 years or so, including ones I never actually tried. Is that wrong? Selected for their perception as Oil of the Snake 🐍 by newbies they’re listed in no particular order, 

The Icons of Snake Oil

Shun Mook Mpingo disc
Schumann frequency generator
Green Pen
Brian Kyle’s Quicksilver Gold
Nordost Anti Static spray for CDs, LPs and interconnects
Original Intelligent Chip
Franck Tchang’s tiny little bowl resonators
Brian Kyle’s Liquid Resolution CD treatment
Tice Clock
PWB Red X Pen
PWB Silver Rainbow Foil
Pavane Crystal bracelet for CD player
Brian Kyle’s Tourmaline Gun
WA Quantum Chips
Low Fequency High Permeability Mu Metal for big transformers

Two controversial (at least to those who’ve never tried them) tweaks that have made substantial improvements in my system are:

Synergistic Research Quantum Blue Fuses (Yes, they are directional.)

Bybee iQSEs (internal Quantum Signal Enhancers)

On the less controversial side, the GutWire Ultimate Ground Cable may be the single best tweak I've tried, so far.

Snake oil is a perjorative term. Wow! I’m glad we got that out of the way.

@cleeds   "Confirmation Bias" is indeed the other attack.  I had a neat experience the other evening.  I decided to spin Elgar's Enigma Variations on reissued RCA Living Presence LP.  I bought the album years ago when a great sale was being run, having read numerous times that it, as a composition, is considered to be a part of what should be in any orchestral music lover's collection.

I remember playing it and not enjoying it at all.  Playing lots of vinyl lately as I just got a new phono stage.  Played it the other night and put down my laptop.    It really caught my attention.  I was liking the music this time. In fact, I was so surprised by my new reaction to this piece that I played both sides twice.  Liked it both times.

My "confirmation bias" would work against me liking that LP.  If "confirmation bias" played such a great role in my perceptions as some here claim then I should not have enjoyed the Elgar piece.

hifiman5

To me, at least, "snake oil" is a pejorative for tweaking.

I am inclined to agree.  There are a few posters here that seem poised to pounce on subjective evaluations, chiming in with demands for level-matched double blind testing, for example. When contributors here decline, they are taunted with claims of "snake oil" or the other canard: "Confirmation bias."

Gee, it’s almost like folks around these parts haven’t quite figured out how the internet works. When it comes to Audio Forums and those pesky little naysayer scamps, everything always starts with the very best of intentions, very idealistic like, but pretty soon the General Rule is, Build it and they will Come. 😀 Once they get a foothold in your house it’s almost impossible to get rid of them. 😛

To me, at least, "snake oil" is a pejorative for tweaking. I can’t believe there is anyone posting here who hasn’t tweaked their components, their room, their overall layout. Some of us go to greater tweaking extremes than others. So what? How does it hurt someone if I share a tweak I’ve employed in my system that, to me, has improved the sonics of my system. You get to decide as the reader whether that tweak has credibility for you. I want to learn from others about tweak techniques that have improved their listening experience that I may have never considered!

I have benefitted a great deal from the experiences of others here and my listening experience is better for it. That and the great personal anecdotes that people share here are what make spending time here valuable to me.

toddverrone
I have not yet done that..

Man, I always forget to mention that you also sell springs.

>>>>>Actually, I’d prefer that you didn’t.

hifiman5

... Whatever your belief system about audio engineering or snake oil (whatever that is) ...

"Snake oil" seems to be whatever kosst says it is.

Hey!  Whatever your belief system about audio engineering or snake oil (whatever that is), in the end, always trust your ears to guide you as you continue to develop your system!  It is your system after all.  As happy as I am with my system as it currently is, I am sure many here would not find it to satisfy their listening preferences.  Their ears would not like it as mine do.  That's okay.  That's why the capitalist audio economy has so many varying offerings from so many successful companies.🎼

His mother is an engineer.

kosst_amojan658 posts12-11-2017 9:08pm

I can't believe I'm reading somebody deriding engineers for being obsessed with good circuits and not considering snake oil enough.

It's okay, because I don't believe that you have that read that. Who here stated that engineers should consider snake oil? Please provide some quotes. Or, do you just feel  free to label anything you like snake oil, and then blame us for your righteous indignation?

I have not yet done that.. 

Man, I always forget to mention that you also sell springs.

For those of you using springs or spring based devices, or thinking of it, here’s a heads up! You can get better isolation, at least on paper, by mass loading the springs as much as possible. Springs can be loaded to the point where the coils almost start to touch. This usually means compressing the springs about half their uncompressed height. On the other hand, depending how soft the springs are and how tall, you might need to observe center of gravity issues. So, keep additional mass COG as low as possible.

Since resonant frequency is a function of the square root of MASS if you can double the mass you can lower the resonant frequency by about 30%. Remember that the total spring rate in the equation for Fr is the number of springs x spring rate per spring. For springs, as a general rule, the way things work out is the best you can do is about 2 Hz. Even when you minimize the number of springs and maximize the mass. Which is actually very good, indeed. But you won’t be able to get down to 1 Hz without resorting to more uh, severe methods. Since a lot of seismic energy is in the region 0-2 Hz, the lower the better rule applies.

Of course how the component is interfaced to the top plate and how the top plate is interfaced to the floor or rack is something worth pursuing. And damping the top plate is another area for investigation.

Pop quiz - Anybody ever construct a double layer mass on spring platform?

The resurrected thread!

Since this has been brought back to life, I'll add something for those ending up here after an internet search: the partially inflated inner tube idea can be bettered by placing compression springs under the component instead of an inner tube. I find the inner tube muddied the sound, while springs brought all the benefits of isolation without the muddying effects of rubber.

You can buy springs cheaply online at Grainger, for instance. Calculate the load you'll need by dividing the weight of what you're trying to isolate by the number of springs you want to use. Less is better, so use 3 or 4. Then look up springs wth  that load. Purchase compression springs with a diameter of at least 1/2" so they are stable. Also, it's better to have a slightly longer spring with a lower spring rate than a shorter sprong with a higher rate 

Geoffkait recommended I post here, as I posted this on an incorrect thread. MrD.

Another tweak that works   :   
312 posts12-10-2017 5:13pmThere is a relatively new product called Anti Vibration Magic, which works. The painters tape mimics the same effect. A buddy of mine uses black electrical tape ( which comes in many colors ). AVM is quite expensive ( imo ), and is used by a few high end audio manufacturers, and is very popular in the diy community. A long, long time ago, I was one of the 1st ( that I knew of ) that used mortite, under the platters of direct drive tts. At that time, I had a friend who was an engineer with Nakamichi, who told me about a simple and easy tweak, that I have been doing for years ( similar to AVM ). This tweak was to use a non glue, waterproof, silicon sealant, available at your Lowes or HD ( even Walmart ), and with a tooth pick ( or something like it ), apply to areas within a component. Wiring, capacitors, circuit boards and the chassis. Caveat : MUST LET IT DRY. It is all removable, and, can be quite messy. But, incredible improvement. This can be for the same purpose as adding a piece Dynamat ( or similar product ) to the underside of a component lid, to dampen vibrations. Anyone who feels I am looney ( kosst ), I do not care. Never knock it until you try it. MrD
mrdecibel312 posts12-10-2017 5:29pmIf anyone wants to try it, I use Dynaflex 230, window and door sealant, by DAP. It is available in a squeeze tube, but I purchase it in the 10.1 ounce tubes. If you purchase it in these larger tubes, you need a caulk gun, and, need to puncture a seal at the bottom of the tip ( after cutting off the tip itself ). The color does not matter, but I use clear. It comes out white, but becomes clear after it dries. I finished up a Monster Cable power thingy, and, unbelievable ( not my first conditioner ). Another thing. i DO NOT DO THIS ON ANY EQUIPMENT UNDER A MANUFACTURES WARRANY, as it would likely void it. I only dabble in the used market anyway, and, I do it to products I intend to keep.mrdecibel312 posts12-10-2017 5:40pmOne last thing. There are many parts within a component that are temperature sensitive, in other words, get hot ( transistors, resistors, transformers, tubes ), that I encourage caution. I do not apply on these, but if given room and with proper heat dissipation, certainly around them. For tubes, I recommend dampers, and not caulk ( or AVM ).mrdecibel312 posts12-10-2017 5:45pmLast thing. Certain parts within a component chassis are very heat sensitive, and require dissipation of that heat ( transistors, resistors, transformers, and some others ). Proceed with caution. I leave these components alone, but will apply around them if given the room for proper heat dissipation. Tubes, I recommend dampers, nothing more.geoffkait

Standard fuse tweak
311 posts12-09-2017 12:34amA test, for anyone who is interested. Take a 1 1/2 inch piece of painters tape ( I use the blue Scotch 3M 1 inch width size roll ), cut this piece the long way, to get yourself a 1/2 inch wide strip, and apply it on the glass of the fuse, leaving a bit of the glass showing on each end of the fuse, and put the fuse back. Of course, make sure the equipment is off, when you are doing this, clean the ends of the fuse of fingerprints, reinsert the fuse, and listen. Keep in mind, the equipment needs to warm up ( restabilize ). Do 1 fuse at a time. Can do this on any fuse. Let me know what you hear ? And yes, I am a tweaker. mrdecibel311 posts12-09-2017 12:36amMaybe, just maybe, keep the fuse in the same direction as before removing it

Try flipping the interconnects around. That can have very surprising effects. One way should always sound better than the other. That's assuming the two interconnect cables are identical in terms of direction to begin with.

Years ago I realized my turntable was feeding back on bass.  I moved the entire system, except the speakers, into my closet and closed the door.  Way better bass without the feedback.

The following tweaks work for me in my system:
1)  Clean all system contacts every 6 months.
2)  Herbie Audio Labs Tenderfeet under components, tube dampers, interconnect dampers, Super Black Hole CD mat, Grungebuster LP mat.
3)  Mass damping top of chassis
4)  Use green POSCA pen on CD edges - yes the sound is more focused.
5)  Treat all CDs with "Rain-X"  It shines up the surface and makes removing future smudges/grime much easier.
6)  Purist Audio Design System Enhancer disc - especially great to hasten burn in of new components.
7)  Cardas frequency/demag. LP

I'll repeat what I've said previously...this is, at least for me, the fun part of the hobby.  This is where we get to "tune/enhance" our systems to our ear's desires.

I was going to share my cabling improvements and insist that cables really make a difference, but in light of the marbles technique I think I'll not bother after all...

Has it really been 15 years since Radio Shack demagnetizer and greening the edges of CDs? How the times have changed. Now it's Graphene and purpling the edges of CDs.

1.  If you have a turntable that uses a belt, replace the belt with a custom belt built by originlive.com  This is not a subtle improvement, its major. 

2.  Change out your speaker terminals with Cardas copper terminals. 

3.  Use Caig Gold contact enhancer on all terminations including tube pins. Don't forget your the spade lugs on your speaker cables (both ends). 

4.  Invest in a ten pack of Synergistic Research High Frequency Transducers (HFT's) and place them around the room as per the directions. 

5.  Replace all fuses in your sysem with Synergistic Research BLACK fuses. 

6.  If you're into vinyl and haven't done so yet, invest in a VPI record cleaning machine.

7.  Stop listening to your equipment and listen instead to the music. 

OP

I find that wearing my underware inside out and backwards, really improves transient detail...

I was very excited to find the Cardas Frequency Sweep now available as an iPhone app. Works just like the one on the record, only .99 cents. Worth trying, I use it over Bluetooth to a Bluetooth receiver hooked up to my line level inputs. 

Thanks for the info Jcbtubes. Have been using it for about 8 months now with no detrimental effects, just positive ones. I use only small amounts on power contacts (plugs and iec's) and it's worked for me so far. But I'll keep my ears open. From your post, it sounds like someone was using this stuff internally in the manufacture of their gear-what exactly were they using it in and where were they applying it?

Hdm- You might want to think twice about that silicone dielectric grease! A couple of dealers were having problems with the sound of a vendor's (very expensive) power equipment changing over time, and not for the better. After investigating the possible causes, the vendor determined that it was the grease which was causing the degradation in sound. It is no longer used in the production of their equipment. Obviously, the grease can be removed with solvents (alcohol), so no permanent harm done. Just keep it in mind if things start sounding uninvolving and lacking dynamics. Goodluck.

No Problem.

It was just a misunderstanding Retroguy. It sounded so outlandish and I jumped. I'm sorry, it's not my normal reaction. I've had it with some of the people on this site and I figured.... I figured wrong, no hard feelings I hope. I've enjoyed your other posts, I should have thought! YES!!!! Is that cool or what. I've read a couple of preliminary reports. I'm not sure I understand ant of it, but the laws of physics are on shakey ground. Stoping (freezing) light! The potential is amazing. Thanks for your understanding. J.D.

The Rush erasers and the TI shield were both available from Mike Percy Audio Products, the last time I spoke to him. You can access him on the web at www.bainbridge.net/percyaudio His parts catalog may be downloaded as a PDF, or search for products you are looking for. Mike is a source for many hard to get resistors, caps, binding posts, adaptors, etc. Anyway, he is an honest and fair person, and his prices are good. His phone number, although he is difficult to reach, is 415-669-7181. 10:00 Am to 9:00 PM, West Coast time. If you get him by phone, tell him Albert ask about "Ollie." (It is his pet bird that sits with him during the long hours on the phone.)

I'm sorry, I have to ask one more question. Would you believe that a group of dutch scientists slowed the speed of light down to 23 meters/ps last year. Further more, just very recently at least two independent groups slowed it down to zero velocity. It happene in both cases, if you can do proper research, the info is readily available.

Jadem6, I'm sorry that you don't believe my statement. George Melior was doing some very unusual stuff in the early 90's. Rather than be arrogant and rebuffing my statement as tripe, look into it yourself. You will find evidense that this was available from Museatex at a cost of $10.00 per cd. I'll be happy to leave your thread alone.

Go to your local auto parts store and buy silicone dielectric tune-up grease. Put a small amount on all power connections (not signal carrying connections!), prongs, male-female iec connections and plug back in. Presto-smoother, more natural sound as a result of less arcing. Cost $5-$10.

Okay, Furniture location works for me too. I hate to change it even though some furniture is arranged in most un-orthodox fashion in the family room. $1.20 tweak on both main L-R and rear Surround works for me ( You know I am not really sure but all I got to spare is $2.40). The other day I finally tried partially inflated 12" bicylce tube like on of the post suggested ( I tried to go back to the post to report my findings, but could not find it since the Audigon regrouping), but did not work for MY CD player.The sound was forward, lost focus somewhat and background noise slightly increased. Not to mention, the cd drawer kept getting stuck for a while, after the tube removal. This WOULD work for some CD player and won't for some. It all depends on thier natureal freq modes and its excitation with the internal mech induced random vibaration in addition to airborne pressure induced vibration. The natural freq modes of two set ups ( as stock and as used with tube) are diffrent. I think, assuming if the mfr has designed it right, the spikes generated due to random vib enviroment falling at lower freq modes are remote (the body stiffened accordingly). The tube in the middle supported differently would have now have diffrent natural modes which MAY BE GOOD OR BAD and therefore vary from brand to brand. But best thing is to NOT fiddle with the CD player support. Best option is have the shelf very thick(stiff), held such way that it has high fixity at the ends( again for same reason: you wanna keep the the shelf natural freq modes as high as possible not to interact with CD Player system modes) and CD player top should have shelf right on top panel, not touching but as to kill/block acoustic pressure caused by sound pressure. Weighing down top panel, I have not tried, but once again MAY WORK OR NOT.Therfore I doubt very much the usefulness of the Black diamond racing cones and similar products. It may or may not work. TRY FIRST IF YOU HAVE AN OPTION.

Albert, where can you get the TI shield and the Fiberglass brush? Is Rush on the web?

There is a fiberglass brush, sold by Rush eraser in New York, that will polish metals to new bright condition. Using them on the AC (male) plugs on all your power cords, and on tube pins (obviously, only if you have tubes), will immediately improve performance across the board. If this polishing is done with the Rush eraser dipped into ART oil, the connection is enhanced even further. Cleaning with this same ART oil (no brush) on all your RCA or balanced connections is a big help too. Lately have been experimenting with Caig gold in place of the ART, but have not yet come to a conclusion. The Cardis "sweep" LP will do amazing things, if while the stylus is playing in the groove, you run the Aesthetix (Benz) de mag, or the older Audioquest De mag, connected to the RCA jacks of your turntable. A total time of about 30 seconds will de flux the cartridge to perfection. Texas Instruments makes a metal called TI shield, and if a section of it (about as large as your CD player) is placed between the CD, DVD or whatever digital source, and a preamp, amp or other piece of equipment that radiates magnetic fields, there will be an immediate improvement in the digital sound. If the source of magnetic noise is above and below the digital player, you will need a sheet in both locations. This last one is strange but completely true, if you can find a TRUE ground, connect a wire from it to the metal stand that supports your preamp, amp, turntable or digital player. (Probably between the stand and the spike near the floor?) If there are radio waves or other transmitted (RF) signals present, your music will have greater dynamics, more black (lower noise), and reduced brittleness in the high frequencies. I have actually heard radio stations clearly picked up by the shape of equipment stands. Often, the length of the frame and crossbars are the exact dimensions to become a perfect antenna for a signal, some miles away. The ground wire drains this completely, where changing cables, and experimenting with various other grounds in the system did nothing to solve the problem. Often there is a gain, even when the radio station is too weak to be clearly heard through the system. It costs nothing to try the last one, and it can be huge. Best wishes!

Your right, and they too were very disapointing to me. Thank-you for reminding me!

You question the validity of freezing CDs, but you don't mention Cwlondon's post? Or could the pashmina and calculator tweak really work?!?!

If you are a believer in something like Vibropod try getting a Gel Wrist Pad from Fellowes for computers. Around $16.00 It can be cut into eight pieces for eight feet. It's hard to cut, I used a long version of tin snip. Not because it's hard but it stretches so easy. This under whatever with a bag of sand on top dampens vibration very well and it's cheaper than vibropods. Eight feet for $16.00 and a bag of sand. That's the price of one Vibropod foot.

Well I did my first thumbs down.It already has 3 .I assume jadem was refering to the 'pull-date' on another post.Now my tweak that works for me:The UFO thing-e from Music Direct.It demagnetizes your system,as well as your cds.Works for me. Y M M Vary.