The SAS/ M97xe combo is a giant killer IMO, at least up to around the $1K mark. The caveat is that it requires precise alignment and setup to hear everything it has to offer (especially VTA and VTF). It also takes a good 50 hours of break-in before it really shines. It won't sacrifice much of the Shure's warmth but will produce gobs more detail and separation - simply in a whole different league. I'm convinced it's the best value to be found in analog. Boron cantilevers are traditionally reserved for $2K^ carts!
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Ortofon 2M Bronze. Using one now on my Technics SL1210GR, $440 new. Sounds is stunning. Stylus is replaceable, and you can upgrade to the 2M Black stylus later on down the road. Very easy to install, and only needs appoz. 20 hours of play until it really starts to shine. Keeps getting better from there on out too. |
Everyone who's advise is to buy stock DL-103 should learn a bit more about stylus profile, the stock DENON-103 or 103R has a CONICAL TIP Why the conical/spherical stylus is the worst ever you can read in this thread: https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=22894 |
@bstatmeister, Sorry for coming to the party so late. I really have come to enjoy my Shure V15VxMR MM cartridge with the JICO SAS VN5xMR stylus and I wanted to share this with you. And you must read Raul’s thread. I tricked out a $70 ’antique shop’ Technics SL-D2 direct drive turntable and a $200 Pioneer PL-600 direct drive turntable (the silver one) and upgraded the headshells with Ortofon LW-800S and LW-7N headshell wires, rewired the tonearm with KAB SuperFlex and Cardas tonearm wires, upgraded the cartridge and stylus with the Shure V15VxMR cartridge and the JICO SAS VN5xMR stylus. (That I switch out) And hardwired the phono interconnects with the very inexpensive but value added Blue Jeans Cable LC-1’s with the preamp output interconnects being Blue Jeans Cable LC-1’s also. As far as playing ’albums’ I beleive the best upgrade I made from a pure sound standpoint was adding a Parks Audio Budgie Tube Phono preamplifier at $399 with a pair of NOS Telefunken E88CC/6922’s at $454 after selling my $1748 Pro-Ject Phono Box RS MM/MC and the companion Pro-Ject battery powered Power Box RS power supply that I fortunately sold for a little above cost. After adding the Parks Audio Budgie Tube Phono preamplifier I was amazed at the transparency, depth, wide soundstage, and dynamic range of sound. The Parks Audio Budgie Tube Phono preamplifier is a single ended Class A tube circuit. See the reviews. Now I’m on the hunt for the ’mysterious’ Shure Ultra 500 cartridge. And thank you again for making me aware and opening up my ears to the Vandersteen SUB THREE subwoofers. One day I’m gonna purchase a mint used pair. Ahh...The dreaded disease of ’upgradeitis’. I hope my post here helps you out some. Please see here: https://hometheaterreview.com/shure-v15-phono-cartridge-reviewed/ http://forums.stevehoffman.tv/threads/the-shure-v15vxmr-revisited-what-a-great-phono-cartridge.38495... tyray |
To the OP — You accept that a better MM/MI is that way to go at this
time (and Chakster is right that Raul's classic thread is
must-read) but you seem determined to get a new cartridge. I understand this, but I think you
are drastically, and needlessly, limiting your options. You may achieve
more "goodness" this way, but you're ruling out "greatness". @Thank you Chakster, you're right again: "SAEC SS-300 mat is a must have to solve an EMI effect (electromagnetic interference) for both MM or LOMC." I've been using it for years. I never had an EMI problem so I didn't know the SAEC solved it, but it's good to know. For me, it's a "must have" for other reasons... I did have a bearing-rumble problem which resonates intolerably through the platter, thence to the LP and stylus, no matter what mat I use, and drives my woofers berserk. I could not fix it at the source, because the motor is sealed (welded shut — one of those "never needs lubrication" fallacy/fantasies from that period). I will try to drill out the spot-welds next time I undertake a major task, so I can get inside and do the proper maintenance/restoration... if it's not too late. But meanwhile the SAEC eliminates the rumble entirely. I don't rest it directly on the platter, that doesn't help. Instead, I elevate it above the platter a short distance, less than 1mm. It's supported at three very small points around the outermost perimeter, farthest from the source of rumble (the center) and where the metal is thickest — the added mass at the platter's rim acts as a mechanical sink, and the rumble is at its least there. The SS-300 doesn't sag at all, so those three tiny points are its only contact with the platter and the rumble it carries, nothing but air between them. The result is silence. |
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