Small or large sub for music


I've been using a pair of Velodyne HGS-10s to supplement KEF LS50s below 50 Hz, but I read that larger subs are better for music because the cone needs excursion.  Is there any truth to this?  I have a pair of HGS-15s that I could use to supplement the LS50s or Reference 1s (below 40 Hz) if I go there.  The HGS-15s do HT superbly.

db
Ag insider logo xs@2xdbphd
Sorry for being so brief. I meant to say daisy chaining the four powered HGS subs via the Dayton's EQd line level (RCA) connection using each subs 1000 / 1250w amplifiers. 

I'm not sure of the ohm rating of the two HGS drivers. I'm assuming if they're anything below 8 ohms you may have presented the Dayton amplifier with a less than its combined 4 ohm minimum load which could affect the subs performance and possibly damage the drivers.

Blue Jeans or MonoPrice cable offer reasonably priced custom lengths of RCA cable.  


m-db,

     Okay, I understand now you weren't directing the daisy chaining question to me.

Woops,
Tim
I use a pair of JL Audio F113V2 subwoofers, each with 13.5" drivers and 3000 watt amps built in, each also weighing in at 133#.

To Erik_Squires excellent point, my "man cave" had an extremely obnoxious "one note" it would add, no matter what the bass players were playing, and it was very loud.  So, I had to purchase a calibrated microphone and "REW" (Room EQ Wizard) software and eventually apply 10 bass traps to the room, to get the low bass under control.  Now it sounds great, but it was not easy getting there!

One thing about my comparison of the JL models, the F112V2 subs (12" driver, 1800 watt amps) were probably a better match for stand mounts, as they go higher in the bass range before they roll off.  In my case, my F113V2's pair with some Focal Sopra No2 floor standing, three way speakers.
"More important, IMO, is to have a SEALED sub for music."

Can anyone provide a supportable reason for this, or is this just an ad nauseum repeating of inaccurate information? 

Subwoofer sound is primarly dictated by QTC and group delay.  It is easier to build a sealed subwoofer with a low QTC and group delay (just throw a driver in a large sealed enclosure, the bigger the lower the QTC), but a vented subwoofer (whether ported, slot load, transmission line, or passive radiator) works just as well or better when properly designed.  With decent quality subwoofers, the vast majority of issues people have are room and tuning related, not equipment related.    

Just a few music focused manufactures using vented designs:

Vandersteen- Yep, slot load, including his $18,900 Sub Nine.  Perhaps someone should let Richard know he isn't building his speakers correctly. After all, he is just a truck driver from Hanford, what does he know?   

Wilson Audio-  Yep, ported.  But hey, David Wilson was just just selling speakers to deaf people.

Legacy- Passive radiators.  I only heard Legacys once and was less than impressed, but it was 20 years ago and the room was less than optimal, so I really can't say they are good or bad.  That said, they seem to be among the most liked brands.  But again, perhaps Bill Dudleston doesnt' know what he is doing.  Someone should let him know he should change his designs, as they are not audiophile approved as sealed.