MidFi multi channel solution needed for HT.


Due to financial position currently, I can't purchase what I want, so to fill the short term need ... I need a multi channel solution below a $4000 threshold. My speakers demand plenty of high quality power to perform at their best, so I am looking to fill that void that was once filled with high end 2 ch separates. If anyone could comment on their own experiences with any of the below solutions I would appreciate it.

Looking for anyone to comment or suggest on their experience they addressed themselves or have helped others reach a well thought out conclusion on same topic. I am looking for a best quality AVR or separate solution. Not necessarily one with the most features. Budget is $2k-4k

Looking for suggestions from those that have had experience with high quality AVRs or midfi AV separates. Entertaining the following products / companies, not in any particular order.

Considering the following AVRs

NAD t777v3 - great sound has Dirac, but unclear if replacement is coming shortly
Arcam -- buggy and unreliable track record but great sound
Cambridge cx200 - no RC to speak of other than REW 3rd party
Lexicon RV9 - unproven track record since Harman acquired them.
Rotel RMB1580 - expensive
Anthem MRX720 - rumor has it that ARC is 2nd to Dirac.

Not considering any other AVRs as a powered solution. But, I am considering a possible use of denon or marantz avr as a preamp as a midfi separates setup, but not sure how the sound quality would compare to the above AVRs.

1. Outlaw 976 with 5-7ch amp ( ati, monoprice, outlaw, rotel or other midfi amp)
2. Midfi AVR such as ( denon 6x00 or Marantz701x ) with separate amplifiers

My biggest stumbling block in the decision process is whether or not the Outlaw 976 will be 'better' than any of the listed solutions on the preamp and processing end of things. And I am hesitant to jump on board with the Outlaw 976, due to major omissions ( no upgrade path, no network or usb connections ). And the tech support is questionable. But if it sounds hands above the rest, I would gladly consider it.

Looking forward to hearing what others can suggest.

current components:

b&w cdm9nt with matching center ch
Kimber Kable 8tc
Kimber Kable ICs



Thx in advance.
lightfighter2018
I have tried several different HT Processors and also tried room correction. I had a Theta processor that did Dirac room correction. No matter what I did, the Dirac was very intrusive to the sound and did funny things to the phasing - it was like the sound was at my head/ears (like headphones) instead of far out in front of me. The sound also became too smooth and it removed the micro details/textures. For bass, Dirac over equalized the spots where I had bass nulls and caused the drivers to peak out. I also did a Yamaha YPAO calibration in another theater and it just sounded better and more natural with YPAO turned off. I have found that you get better sound in the end if you just do acoustic room treatments instead of using room correction/EQ. I am probably an exception to this, as many others here say that room correction is great.
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I don’t know about the "Marantz not like they were 20 years ago". I have been following what Marantz has been doing for many years. They made a big jump since they upgraded/modified their original HDAM circuit years ago. This started with the AV7702 and AV8802 processors (the AV8801 had the older/slower circuit). They have excellent power supply design and, of course, a fully discrete analog output stage. I recently had a friend bring a brand new AV8805 processor to test my in system. We all were very impressed for a processor at the $4500 level. It had excellent sound quality and impact/fullness of sound, but it does have a slightly warm character (slightly rolled off highs) - which is why I said that this Marantz should be upgraded with silver fuse and/or silver power cord.
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I have owned several different Emotiva amps over the years. Emotiva is a very good amplifier "for the money". Just like the Monoprice Monolith. We had a discussion on this in another forum - the Emotiva may be more refined than Monoprice, but the current generation Emotiva uses a switching power supply (Gen 3) and does not have quite as much bass authority as the Monoprice. The older Emotiva amps with their huge transformer and power supplies would probably do better. However, these amps are not better than stuff like Rotel, NAD, Parasound etc.
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Oh , out of those amps, probably the Rotel would be best.  Then Emotiva/Monoprice
I do think Denon doesn't have great sound quality and sounds just like every other conventional receiver, such as Onkyo, Integra, Sony, Pioneer.  The best receivers, in my opinion, are Marantz (warm), Anthem (best resolution), and Yamaha is not bad sounding either.
Relating to your fuse question.  Fuses are a way to tune the sound of your system/equipment, and most all of upgraded fuses are going to be better than stock fuses.  However, the choice of fuse depends entirely on what you currently have and system synergy.   So.... I have 3 types of fuses that I generally use:

Furutech rhodium - this is my standard fuse and has excellent resolution and detail (but an incredibly long burn in time).  Made from pure copper and uses rhodium plated end caps.  However, in some cases, too many of these can slow down the sound too much.  It depends.

Hi-Fi Tuning "Supreme" or "Silverstar".  The "Silverstar" is 100% silver all the way through".  The "Supreme" uses a 99% silver / 1% gold mixture.  These are very fast conducting and can be used to increase the resolution and attack/detail of the sound.  But in some cases, it can cause the sound to become too bright/fast.

Isoclean or Hi-Fi Tuning "Cu".  These are all pure copper and gold plated.  They will warm up the sound and have rolled-off highs.  Great for a system that is too bright or fast or harsh.

So, I have found use for all these fuses in different systems.  My computer audio system uses Furutech fuses all the way through and has excellent sound.

My main system uses B&W speakers with Parasound amps.  I have JC1 for left/right and I had to load these fully with Hi-Fi Tuning Supreme because the JC1 was just too warm and did not have fast enough resolution.

My surround speakers are older Focal and the Parasound A21 amp had to be loaded only with Furutech.  If I put just one Hi-Fi Tuning in the amp, the sound became a little too bright edged and lost body.

My Emotiva XPR amps uses 2 Furutech fuses for the best sound.

I have had a cheaper Yamaha receiver that I had to load with one Furutech and one Hi-Fi Tuning Supreme to get the best balance.

A very fast Bryston amp would use an Isoclean or Hi-Fi Tuining "Cu" gold plated fuses to calm down the fast bright/harsh sound.
Interesting that just a fuse can alter the presentation of the amplifier. Has anyone ever bothered to compile a go-to list for recommendations for brand x fuse for brand y amp or avr, and what the end result will most likely be?

I know you listed a few above, but has anyone ever bothered to make it a bit more straight forward rather all of it being a crap shoot or plug and play guessing game? 

Backpedaling a bit about the 770x Marantz. Its my understanding that the Vietnam based mfg'd av gear is not regarded as well put together/designed/questionable QC - etc... as those coming out of china or japan.  Do you find this to be the case as a rule rather than the exception?

AFAIK china and japan mfg ( across many industries ) - just have their mfg QC down to a science, as it were - and therefore end products are just 'better' in general... 

Would you say there is any truth to this?


I know you have the Parasound amps. I will try and find a dealer to go and audition them.  If I am unable to do so, and I have to make another choice -- do you think the Anthem or Rotel would be a better fit than NAD or Parasound for my B&Ws?

I am going to drive out to the SF bay area and audition a few amps next week - but just thought I would ask for some guidance since you have been so willing to assist.

Since I have your attention - do you have any general suggestions for IC/hdmi cable 'brands' that don't cost a fortune? What about power cable suggestions?