What amps should I audition?


I’m thinking ahead (crazy I know)

I want to purchase a high end amplifier next year, maybe an integrated or just a power amp.

I would be looking to spend around 15k max on an integrated, and 8-10k on a power amp separate (funds to acquire a preamp will be got at a later date next year)

What brands and what model from each brand should I try to get a home audition for? 

I should note I would probably be buying new as I can’t imagine I will be able to get a home audition with used gear. I’m open to buying used, but I’d have to get an audition in a system like mine, or actually in my system... I don’t really want to buy anything without auditioning first. On a related note, what is the easiest or best way to get a dealer relationship started, one where he would let me home audition? I’m even willing to pay 100% deposit if it means I can return it no questions ask after the audition period, but the dealers I’ve asked to do this with so far have refused. I always see people on this forum saying they manage to do that. I’m a bit at a loss how they manage to pull that off.

Anyway some more ideas: Bryston amps and Nagra Classic pre? This was the only setup I’ve heard on my speakers and it was quite magical. I really like the Nagra, and the Bryston combo. Used, it could be got within my budget. New.. not so much. I could swap out the Brystons with the matching Nagra amp, maybe. Or even just go for the Nagra Classic Integrated. All within my budget (if used) and with my speakers 96db sensitivity I should be good to go with the Nagra 100wpc rating.

other ideas: mcintosh mc462 or mc275 mk vi. 
Pass Labs XA30.8 or XA60.8 or XA100.8
Acxuphase e-470
Luxman 509X 

Actually that’s all I’ve really come up with so far. I am open to hearing any thoughts, concerns or ideas you may have. I do believe all the above mentioned amps will better my Kinki EX-M1. 

Cabling will be upgraded to Audience before any of this by the way. 
128x128Ag insider logo xs@2xd2girls
Just a funny mention about Class A and Pass. Read somewhere fellow bought four Pass amps, Big class A amps. He was letting the break in, so he left them on for the whole time... Until he got the electric bill and it was $900 more than usual. (The heat had to be sucked away by the air conditioning, besides the amps)
Suffice to say he shut them off. I do not know if he kept them.
In passing, My little Forte’ 4a amp raised my electric bill ten bucks a month to be left on 24/7. My current stuff adds $30 month to my bill. Left on 24/7 and no class A amp here.
Therefore I am doubtful about the long term reliability of their class A products. 

Nelson's heat sink practice. On a normal 25c day to be able to keep palms of the hands on the hottest part of the heat-sink for at least 6 seconds before becoming uncomfortable, this is around 60c (brick layers need not apply) which will have no reliability problems.

Cheers George  
Georgehifi, I am NOT talking about the heatsinks.  Open the box and measure how hot the TRANSFORMER is and MORE IMPORTANTLY, how hot the smoothing CAPACITORS are.  Semiconductors dont die of heat so quickly but CAPACITORS DO (VERY QUICKLY).  Read about their lifetimes from the manufacturers.  Those typically last about 200,000 hours at 40 degrees C and about 2000 hours only at 85 degrees C.  Even the BEST quality smoothing electrolytics (most likely Nichicons) that can go up to 105 degrees C wont last more than 3000 or so hours.  Those are about $300 a piece and changing 4 will set u back about $1000 every couple of years.
Georgehifi, I am NOT talking about the heatsinks.
Knowing Pass amps very well, the hottest part will be the output transistors junction temp, and heatsinks, everything else inside will be fine.

 Those are about $300 a piece and changing 4 will set u back about $1000 every couple of years.
This total scare mongering of Pass Amps, and you need to be gagged. 
  
I've built monster 2 man lift water cooled pure Class-A amps up to 150w, I know that Nelson would never design anything that would compromise the longevity of the internal components, they will be cooler than the heatsink temperature. So you can buy them in total confidence d2girls  .

Cheers George   
 @elizabeth you should listen to an Ayre KX-R
gives my ref5se a serious run for the money......
and i am running a hyper nice rare Tung Sol in the power supply....