Mr F- Yes, you can. That's the way it's done when a passive(or active) external crossover is not employed. The output voltage of the pre will be split between the amps. To be done with proper results in this configuration- both amps should be identical with regard to gain and sensitivity. Here's a brief treatise on the subject: (http://www.symphonysound.com/articles/biamp.html) |
If your power amps have a line out, you can also daisy chain without having to use a Y-connector. You go from the pre-amp to the line in of power amp number one and then go from the line out of power amp number one to the line in of power amp number two. This is for passive bi-amping. The wiring for active biamping is a little more complicated, but you can daisy chain actively too. |
I have two Golden Tube Audio SE40 they have no line out connections, I am ok with making up a y connection, seems simple to me.
Thanks |
What 6SN7's are you employing in your amps, and what type of sound do you enjoy(clean, detailed, dynamic or warm, tubey, relaxed, etc)? |
Fordmod, try the y cable out. I have had good success with one at each amp. Till funds allow, then I'll go with the active crossover and additional cables.
If you need an xlr y cable that you just want to try out, check out Guitar Center. |
Thanks for all the ifo everyone.
Rodman
I have not rolled any thru these but am trying to learn more and start experimenting, as the oe tubes are getting old. I have had these since new around 1996 I think. I would welcome recomendation! |
Mr F- That's why I asked what sound appeals to you more: There are some NOS 6SN7/VT-231's that offer a very lucid/dynamic(transparent/accurate) presentaton, and then some that are somewhat warmer and relaxed(euphonic). It could save you some $$ to try the tubes that fit your preferences early in the game. |
Rodman
I am open for learning here, I like musical, close to live music as possible. I like detail but not a the expense of musicality.... is that what people call warm? I dont really get all the nomenclature.
Clueless in tube land |
I'm still trying to figure out what some people term "musicality" myself. To me the term SHOULD connote allowing all the MUSIC to pass without adding or subtracting anything. In other words: transparent, detailed, extended and fast bass(gotta feel the skin), accurate timbre/transients/decays, dynamics, a wide and deep soundstage with the instruments and performers placed and spaced within as intended by the recording engineer(hopefully- a good one). I listen to live music at least twice a week as a soundtech, and don't want any extra warmth, sweetness(read glazed donut), sibilance, glare or stridency(what some think is detail)... well, you know: the stuff that's just not there in a well set up venue(be it acoustic or plugged in). Some enjoy that, and what they enjoy is their business(who am I to say what's right in their listening room?). I guess to them that's, "musicality". |
Based on the many posts involving "musicality" there's no doubt it is a nebulous term and connotes many different definitions/descriptions.
To me musicality is simply enjoyment of the component's sonics. If you accept this, then musicality is subjective and varies from listener to listener.
I wouldn't know how to define it any other way. |
OOPS- I never replied to your query about the 6SN7's. It sounds like our tastes are similar. If you want the Holy Grails of transparency and sound stage: There's nothing out there like a NOS, matched pair of 40's TungSol JAN CTL/6SN7GT bottom getter, round plate(not the mouse ear though) or the Sylvania JAN CHS/6SN7W tall bottle(the short ones are a no no). I'm using one of each in my Cary monoblocks(driver and phase splitter), and the results are excellent. The cost of those tubes has gone through the roof lately though. Very close in sound are the Sylvania and Ken-Rad bottom getter VT-231's. Most of what they give up is in the sound stage department(not much though), and they are a tad less liquid in the midrange(both are much less expensive). I'm bi-amping with SS on the bottom, so I can't give you an honest review of the bass through these tubes, but- the 6SN7W is known for it's "slam" and both of the "Grails" for their microdynamics(which I CAN attest to). I've always done well purchasing tubes on eBay, but be certain the seller knows his tubes, gives comprehensive readings, and the triodes are matched(of course- a high feedback score is a must). CAVEAT EMPTOR |
Ok it apears that my amps use two 6ns7 and six 5881. What do I do for the 5881's?
Sorry for slow responce..have been working a little too much. |
The 6L6WGB and 5881 tubes are identical(just FYI). I'd suggest contacting Kevin at Upscale Audio and asking his response to the sound of the TungSol re-issue 5881: (http://www.upscaleaudio.com/product.asp?itemid=574&catid=87) I've never tried them personally, but have heard some good things. There are also a variety of NOS 5881's available. If I were looking, I'd try to find the TungSol, or Philips JAN 6L6WGB(probably the best option): (http://thetubestore.com/jan6l.html) |
