Interconnect cables and the CD player power cords....
Also issolating and/or filtering the AC power to the CD player from the rest of the system. |
In my experience, the AC cord is the first tactical move against digital nasties then come AC filtering.
Trying to manage your audio cables so it doesn't cross with one another especially with powercords is a freebie tweak that works too.
Other than cables, this recent thread is helpful:
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?ddgtl&1051384332 |
Ditto above. Plus try adding RFI stoppers, AQ or Radioshack. to the CD players output cables.
One way to compare the sound is to run your Cd through a audiocassette deck. If the digital grunge sound dissapears, then attack you front end. if not, it's after the cassette. |
Try placing Black Diamond Racing Mk. III cones (warmer than the linear Mk. IV) under your digital gear. |
Definitely wires, then PS Audio power plant, then cones/maple shelf/IsoBlocks under the CD player, then CD treatments like Mapleshade Mikro-Smooth and Walker Vivid. Pretty much in that order. Good luck. |
I have applied Dynamat on the inside of my transport (sparingly, a little goes a long way) and have used Blu-Tak on the "Bridge" of the drive and on the drawer. This gave noticeable improvement. But what was my best tweak, and seemed like an upgrade in equipment, was using Blu-Tak on the clock and on parts of the PCB in my DAC. Some prefer using a small sandbag, but I chose the Blu-Tak. Go to AA and look up "Sandbag on the clock" or “Damping CD players” or try this link
http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.pl?forum=tweaks&n=30356&highlight=sandbag+on+the+clock+tweak&session=
This is a wealth of info and you can read about the differences between sandbags and Blu-Tak. I never used to be a believer in the isolation idea, but after this tweak, I'm a TRUE believer. It was absolutely night and day. It is now cleaner, detailed, better sense of depth and soundstage and the bass has improve.
Another worthwhile tweak is to find a good way to isolate the transport and DAC from other vibration. For my setup, solid maple shelves (1 ½ inch thick), on Vibrapods and cones between the transport/DAC and the shelf. I know this is a highly debated issue, but only you can decide for yourself, by experimenting.
I also agree with the others on trying different power cords, especially on the DAC. If you can have a dedicated circuit put in, get one for your digital gear alone, (along with the analog side as well as for your amps, but that is a different matter) which will also help. Hope this helps. Just try some of these; you just might like what you hear! |
This is your cheapest option. There is no reason why you should have to own a harsh cd player. Simply sell yours here, then buy one that isn't harsh. |
Forgot about one.
Get several of the "anti-static foam mats" for IC's from Radioshack. Cover the conductive foam so it does not short out your equipment. Place the mats over the IC's in the CD equipment, the D/A converter, the clock... etc. It will suck up the stray radiation and mellow out the sound. |
Cleaning up AC power definitely helped my problems in that regard. The JPS Digital AC cord is one popluar remedy here on the 'Gon, in the filtered AC cord area. An AC power input balancing transformer or other line conditioning has reportedly been successfully implemented (although I did not require them - just the filtered cord).
RF stoppers on the output interconnects may be a useful troubleshooting tool, but should not be left installed permanently (they excessively round off the HF's & transients). Ferrite filtering ring &/or Highwire Powerwrap on the AC cord may do well for you however.
I also realized improvement with Nordost Pulsar Points placed in between the CDP's baseplate & whatever type of shelf that you're using (if any). In my case that would be a Zoethecus Z-Slab, (Mapleshade or Black Diamond are some other popular shelf options). But you'll need to experiment in order to to determine what works best with your own unique combination of player, cabling, & equipment rack in any case. |
Darryl --
What is your set-up, how long have you had it, and
what sort of digital nasties are you experiencing?
A few weeks ago, I added Krell FPB 350 MCX monos
to my system and started experiencing some harsh-ness in the high end.
I've done a few things and it has largely disappeared.
I ran my Krells non-stop for a few days, started leaving
them on all the time, never turning them off. I bought
them used so I thought they were broken in, but they
are still improving.
My speakers have two upper and two lower binding
posts. I was plugging my speaker cables into the
top posts, but I switched to the bottoms.
I towed my speakers in a few inches.
I added a Blue Circle Noise Hound to the circuit
to which my CD player and pre-amp are connected.
Not sure which of these caused the most improvement, but the harshness is gone and the system is sounding great.
|
Hifirush, hope you're not using the Blu-Tack anywhere near heat. Mine turned to blue goo, still trying to get rid of it. |
Audio Alchemy DTI 2.0 or higher coupled with a Micromega dac. MIT 330 or PC squared or Harmonic Tech cables. |
I'll chime in with my story too. First I had my CDP modified w/Blackgates & Schottkys & after many PC's settled on a TG Audio 688. Also using Luminous Audio Synchestra Sigs (XLR) and Herbie's footers. Sounds excellent to me & anybody else who's had a listen.
Also have dedicated lines & Porter ports, so hopefully everything connected with the CDP is just allowing the signal to get through w/o additions/restrictions. Of course that's not really possible but if you surround your CDP with the best ancillary equipment (for your ears) then you should be able to extract what your CDP is capable of. If it's still harsh, try another CDP. Oh, mine is a Meridian 508.20. Not the most expensive nor the least but able to do a fine job with the right combination of gear. |
Many good suggestions above. In the quest for better digital sound, I've gone to an aftermarket cord (without spending huge $$$), damped the chassis of the player extensively with industrial floor tile, addressed support and isolation, and used high quality power conditioning.
Something that gets little mention and is probably grossly underestimated and receives little recognition (probably because of its low cost) is the Quantum Electroclear line filter, available for $40. For $40, this is probably the bang for the buck champion in eliminating/reducing the edge from digital. |
All Good thoughts. Im going to digest them all, but my first experiment is to make sure all powercords have as little as possible contact with the Interconnects. I have had different results placing my equipment in different places of my rack. not only with harshness , but also with dynamics etc. At first I thought it was my pre too close to my amp. But maybe its the way my interconnects and power cords are intersecting . Im running a Technics DVDA-10 as a transport into an Integra Research RDC-7, on to a Classe 301 amp then into Legacy Signature III speakers . I have a VD nite on the Integra , dedicated lines and a Tice powerblock HP C. I had it all "sweet" before, except a 3 meter pair of balanced interconnects was picking up a hum {drapped behind my rear projection Televison} Now I have a 1 meter pair of Stealth PGS as I have moved the Classe back over to the other side closer to the pre. Im going to go to another set up putting the pre all the way at the top so all Pc's in my system will not touch any interconnects. But I certainly will take all suggestions into account. keep coming with the idea's . thanks ! |
The Blue Circle BC86 Noisehound is a good idea. Put it next to the plug nearest the amplifier, so the noise is cleanest at the source for the amp. |
I own the Audio Magic Mini Digital. With a couple of good power cords, (I use Lat International. inexpensive, but combined with the Stealth--Nirvana) your cdp will go where it's never gone before. peace, warren |
Where on net to buy Quantum Electroclear line filters?Thanks,JD |
The Quantums are available right here. Do a member search for Mr. Stereo and contact him. |
I agree with the power quality responses. I have had good luck with the JPS Digital AC cord. Being obsessive as I am I also added an ExactPower power conditioner and have been very happy.
I have also used a set of the Aurios bearings. The bearings didn't remove the harshness as much as cleaned up a slight muddiness.
Good luck,
John |
The Nasties are gone. I had the thought , but Viggen cemented it in my head. I moved all the power cords away from the interconnects, and the detail has returned ! If you think about it, most equipment has the PC inlet on the left, so if your installing dedicated lines , have those off to the left so you do not run your PC.s crossing your interonnects. Im still going to try some of the tweaks though, some sound very interesting, Thanks to all ! |
Just to reinforce to other goners, after exteneded "Friday night turn up the volume listening" the difference moving all your powercords away from the interconnects is staggering ! Detail, layering of instruments, Im on a HIfi High ! Thanks again |
One way to easily have some extra space between those impossible to keep apart cords is to stick water pipe insulation around sections of the power cords. You can slide them on from a spot where you can reach to areas hard to get at. The stuff comes in easy to split open sections. I get the smallest and then add over it a second bigger one. gives about two inches of clearance. |
Try the Taddeo Digital Antidote just $100 for the passive unit |
I would also recommend the Taddeo Digital Antidote II. More information can be found here:
www.taddeodigital.com
It is inexpensive, and does an impressive job of correcting the phase timing errors that are present in 16/44 digital, which seem to be largely responsible for the tiring edgyness that digital is known for. I have just received a unit, and consider it a worthy upgrade, especially considering the more than reasonable price. The sound of my Rega Jupiter 2000, while great without it, is certainly more full-bodied, smoother and warmer (as well as sounding harmonically more complex, more similar to my analog set-up, which gives the impression of a higher resolution source).
Pretty well no matter what you do to tweak, you will still have the lingering phase problems, I think Taddeo is the only company to actually address the problem. With a 30 day guarantee, it is difficult to lose. |
