Which SR Blue or black Fuse

So all that talk about other's poorly designed power supplies in their lousy amps and their boutique fuses was just a lot of hot air because you decided to build an amp that would often fail by design because you seem to think it sounds better that way?

You keep citing Nelson Pass's designs as the inspiration for yours and yet I've yet to hear of any fuses popping with regularity with his amps. If they did, we'd all hear about it by now and no one would be buying them.

Bartender, find out what he's drinking and order me a case! 😄

All the best,
Nonoise

@nonoise 

You're obviously not at all familiar with the First Watt products. You know... Like the J2 that got Stereophile's Amp of the Year award. Mine is a modified clone of the F5. The power supply in it is actually more muscular than what Nelson built the First Watt F5 with. The fuse pops at 300 watts like in all FW amps, but because mine runs 32V rails instead of 24V at the same 120,000uF reservoir capacitance, the in-rush current is a bit higher. All the First Watt amps will pop their fuses if you shut them off long enough to disconnect inputs then power them back on. It's just long enough to drain the PS caps, but not long enough to let the thermistors cool. 

I don't blame you for being clueless about FW amps. They're really nice amps for people looking for something different than you're typical idiot-proof production line amp. They're all hand built and adjusted by one guy; either Nelson Pass or the DIY'er who built it. Simplicity wins the day. No need for idiot-proofing here.

Make that two cases, bartender! 🤣

The only fuses I've used in recent years that blew were SR Black fuses I was testing for their sound. Also, I concluded that they had no impact on the sound of the components I stuck 'em in, and after testing I sent the pile of them back to my source. I'm sticking to Littelfuse and other stock fuses that work fine and, like any other well sorted fuse, have zero impact on the sound except when they melt.