Anyone own a Pioneer Exclusive P3 ??

According to what is on the web, P3 had "10 kg.cm" of torque, compared to MkIII at 16 kg.cm. MkII has 6 kg.cm, according to my owner's manual. I wonder whether Downunder bought a P3.

Nah, pulled out unfortunately

Due to the $AUS being in the toilet, what was a good deal 3 months ago, was just a bit risky at this time.

I am looking at buying some cheaper tables to play with locally as my 2nd/3rd tables.
Yamaha Px-3 and/or Micro Seiki DL-91L

Both these seem top be reasonable tables for not so much money. Not competing with any 10K tables thou I would guess :-)

Unfortunately, not many people outside of Japan has one of these because they were domestic only, AFAIK. Still, for "only" about $3,500 USD (current going rates), they are much cheaper and easier to obtain than the SP-10MKIII. If I had over $4k to throw around, I'd buy one :)

I wondered why Downunder wanted to use price (i.e., "10K table") as a criterion for expectation of performance. I have lost faith in price as a factor in sound quality of tt's. There are just too many megabuck models with obvious design flaws. Most likely the P3, like the MkIII, will sound great but will not be loved by all devotees of belt- or idler-drive. The limitation of the P3 compared to almost all other top end vintage tt's is that one is pretty much stuck with the stock plinth and tonearm, unless one wants to do a major transplantation of the P3 chassis, which would negate the built-in suspension/isolation. I guess there is a way to add a second tonearm to the existing plinth, but that's about it.

Lewm, the space really isn't there for a second tonearm on-plinth, and if one tried, THAT would require major surgery on the plinth. If one wanted to put one on a pod behind the plinth, that might work, but it would have to be a loooong arm. According to the Pioneer tech who did the overhaul on mine, the existing arm can actually be removed and replaced quite easily without doing anything to the plinth/chassis. The replacement simply needs to be a very similar arm (282mm effective length or so, as long as the base-pivot relationship is similar). I would think the long Audiocrafts (4000, 4400), the Audio-Technica 1501, the Micro Seiki MAX-282 and MA-505L could be made to work, and I bet the long Sony arms (PUA 286, 1600L), and the long Victor and Denon arms would also work. I have not tried it (not sure if I would want to - as a straight arm, it works really well). I cannot, offhand, think of any modern arms with similar length but I am sure someone could find one or two. That said, the arm on it is pretty darned good. I would think it would compete pretty well with the best of the arms mentioned above (which if I had to choose, I would say is likely to be the Max-282, based on my experience with the Max-237).