Hi Tubes,
I'm quite happy with my Astron. :)
Best,
Erik
I'm quite happy with my Astron. :)
Best,
Erik
31 responses Add your response
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Hey @dweller - One rare feature in the Mytek Brooklyn is that it has a DC jack next to the normal IEC AC socket. In addition to the sound quality, it also seems to reduce the heat generated inside the unit. If you have an external power supply that can put out 12 V at 1 Amp, it will work. The Astron I am using has a maximum of 5 or 10 Amps. :) :) Best, E |
Hi all...this is a very timely thread. I'm getting the DAC+ and would like to understand any small tweaks I can make that won't break the bank. Which specific Astron model are you using with the Brooklyn DAC? Does it come ready to "plug-n-play" or are there any settings to be changed on the PS or other parts needed? Thanks! |
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@dweller - Exactly. :) @jcoehler I got fancy, and wanted the variable voltage: https://amzn.to/2uIPWRj Truth is it has so much current I could run my Logitech Squeezebox AND my DAC from the same unit, but right now they are in different rooms. Best, Erik |
Kalali - The power supply has banana plugs on the back. You need to make your own cable. I used these connectors for the DAC end: https://amzn.to/2uyZTBD You can use any regular banana jacks or bare wire for the power supply end. |
erik_squires This was my reason for starting this tread to DC power FOR my new Mytek Brooklyn. DC 12v power is favored so long as it's super clean and doesn't ad ripple waves or transformer hum if it's that type. I.e Not switching AC TO DC. I have read several reviews on PS from England recommended by Mytek. Suggests Mim 5 to 6 amps 250 to 400 watts of ready reserve power. The Astron! Isn't more for Ind or gaming applications, rather than super quiet very low noise floor for extreme EARS? |
@tubes444 - It's really a piece of test gear. 99% of buyers are probably electrical hobbyists, engineers and the like. For the unit I recommend, the sustained maximum is 35 Amps at 15 V, way more than the Mytek needs. It is a super quiet and very stable linear regulator design. I highly recommend it for those who like overkill. :) Best, Erik |
The model I have been using is an Astron RS12A. Keep the 12V DC lead as short as possible. The type of wire used can make a very noticeable difference in tone, speed, clarity and extension in the highs. I have tried dozens of different types of wire, from stranded, solid core, copper, silver plated and pure silver. They all sound much different. I did not like the sound from the heavier gauge wires, or any solid core wire. Heavy gauge wire make things sound darker. 22 gauge stranded copper seemed to have very good balance. Experiment for yourself and your taste. The ultra-pure, expensive wires did not sound any better. Keep it simple. |
bigshutterbug I know mention trying other high PS. But" I would really like to know what brand" . Why! several makers will send you one to audition. Your feed back will save me the effort on those brands as with any VERY GOOD PS to 12V DC their noise floor and their EMI/IM + very low ripple is what is important with a very good audio system, of course you already know. |
The Astron RS12A puts out 10 amps. The Mytek draws a constant 1.5 amps. I never saw it peak out any higher than that when in use. It does not create any problems using 22 ga. wire, unless you are using a long run, which is not suggested. My wire is less than 2 feet. The DC wire is certainly a "tuning point" for me, and different types/gauges certainly change the tone. I urge you to experiment until you find one that gives you the best synergy in your system. Some of the audiophile power supplies I had tried were the HD Plex 100, the Keces, the Vinnie Rossi Mini Pure DC-4EVR (ultracapacitor powered), and a Teradak power supply. Some of them may look nicer and have better specs. than the Astron, but my ears tell me which sound better, and that is all I care about. The low price is a bonus too. |
Golden spec high Audio gear doesn’t guarantee Golden Ear performance. As I’ve found out over the year’s. You have tried HDPLEX 100 which I was going audition. Only they coming out with highly upgrade sonically HDPLEX 200/200 watt output $490 bucks first of August according to Larry their national Rep. Thanks your insight on the Mytek Dac current draw. Very interesting 4 sure. |
@bigshutterbug Agree about ’tuning’ via wire @12vdc. I also tried many different types of wire between the Astron LPS and the digital component. The change in sound was very easy to hear. I ended up with 20awg OCC pure solid copper magnet wire. To combat digital backwash, I added this ICT PCM 12ADL in-line between the Astron and the digital component. It cleaned up the signal even more. Three of these are in my system - between 3 Astrons and the modem/router, the dac and the dedicated laptop for streaming. These are in addition to the 120vac power conditioners that the Astron power cords are plugged into. Over the years, I’ve discovered that the digital components add a lot more digititus than one might realize. |
tubes444: As far as the benefits of the Astron over the internal power supply, I found it to be more dynamic/energetic, noticeably more "punch" in the bass and transient attack in the mids and highs, more extension to the upper highs (with the right DC wire). Soundstage also grew larger and had more micro details. It was a very positive improvement all around. |
That Astron unit looked interesting, but I couldn't accommodate the size in my cabinet. I ordered an sOTM sPS-500 power supply, when it arrives and I've broken it in, will report back. I have the "original" Brooklyn DAC and when I'm streaming thru it for an hour or so it gets really hot. I hope the PS improves the sound quality and reduces the heat. |
agreed on all the comments regarding the Astron power supplies. they are very good - replaced a Hynes unit in my system. @erik_squires Not sure if you're aware of this, but the voltage can be adjusted on other Astron LPSU's rather easily... http://www.repeater-builder.com/astron/voltage-adjust/voltage-adjust.html Certainly not as convenient as rotating a knob on the face, but fairly straightforward if you've got a screwdriver and voltmeter. |