Replacing generic RECEPTACLES


How important is it to replace your generic receptacles with audio grade receptacles . I already replaced my stock power cords to high end Shunyatas. Would it still be necessary to still change my generic receptacles to audio grade? 
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On the other hand... That line may have nothing on it.
One thing I always do when I move into a place is find what each breaker controls, (including ceiling lights and wall switches) use a label maker to note it on breaker box.
Also the fact of having an incandescent bulb on, (with no dimmer) on a line actually REDUCES the noise. Really. A kind of noise trapper, for almost free.  
This does not work so well with LED though. LOL.
@elizabeth Just checked the the line with the CDP receptacle. It is not on the same line as the ceiling fans. In fact there are only about 3 other receptacles on that line that is connected to my CDP. So i think i will be ok with just installing the furutech without adding the dedicated line . What do you think? Unless i want a 20A dedicated line for the future. But i dont need it right now. 
Tattoo... the CDP line needs to be on the same leg of the service panel as your 20A dedicated line, (same phase).
 Also there should not be any appliances on that shared line that will add noise to your audio hookup.
@lowrider57  Not sure i know what you mean by needs to be on the same leg of the service panel as my 20A dedicated line, same phase. And what do you mean by appliances? blender ? microwave? toaster? Im not trying to be funny but i have a dedicated listening room. Its not in my kitchen. 
If you use that line. see which way the lines for it run. Is your use for CDP the first outlet from the panel? or others in-between? Many times the intervening outlets will have breaks in the actual AC lines vs the AC wire being intact and bent around the outlet connections. (if bent do not cut! leave it be, as the solid wire is better than any clean cut and held by screws. even if you have to leave the old outlets in place. bent AC line is hard to bend more, best leave it alone unless replacing the outlet)
Also, you can improve the power by cleaning the wiring at each outlet (if it is cut to connect each outlet.) recut to have a fresh copper and tighten the wiring, making sure the connecting AC duplex are good and have strong means of connecting the wires. (NOT the slip in and a spring clip holds them, nor older duplex where the in wire and the out wire are on separate ends of the duplex using the bridge between the two sides of each duplex) In fact it might be best replacing the unused duplex IF they are in between the panel and your CDP outlet. but all you need are nice Pass & Seymour heavy duty. They connect the wires with a strong screw and plate which allows the AC in wires and AC out to be close side by side and a tight screwdown for max AC flow. that connection is as good as any high end outlet!(If you can’t easily tell if they are between or further out.. shut off the breaker and take out the unused ones, See if your wanted one still works when you turn the breaker back on. If it works then the others are past yours Go around the room and in series add them back.until your wanted one works. Then you know how many have to be upgraded. It they are all past your wanted one from panel, you can ignore them completely.
One other comment, if you use a duplex with a thin ’bridge’ of metal from one outlet to the other in the duplex pair, a good audiophile trick is add a 12 gauge wire in the clamp with the incoming AC wire, and add it to join the bridge with a way better wire. to the second outlet in the duplex. I also mark which duplex outlet of the pair IS the one the AC wires are on directly, vs the bridged one. use the main one, not the bridged one first, or for higher current draw current item. A little label maker labels on the cover work great for this