Replacing generic RECEPTACLES

Are you using dedicated AC lines? Proper grounding will reduce noise.

<double face plate for 4 from Oyaide (WPC-Z2} from VH AUDIO. $374.99  And the single (WPC-Z) $239.99..>

Are you sure the Oyaide plates fit the 
Furutech GTX -d r ?
They're pretty expensive.

have a dedicated line for my Krell FPB 600 amp and my ARC Ref 6 preamp which i will be adding the Furutech GTX-d r. But not for my Rega Isis cdp. Would you also recommend a dedicated line for the cdp too?

It would make sense to add a second 20 amp dedicated line. You can use your CDP, and in the future add another digital device such as a dac or streamer. It’s best to isolate analogue from digital.

Or you can keep the 15A line as long as it is properly grounded at the receptacle and at the circuit panel.

The 2 double receptacles on your 20 amp line equals one 20A dedicated line.
It's fine to run an amp plus preamp on the same line; the 2 components will draw less than 20 amps. It would not be a good idea to run monoblocks on the same AC line due to the high current draw.

@tattoo, just so I understand, the 20A dedicated line is installed with 2 duplex receptacles. 20 amps would require commercial receptacles. Is this correct?

Does a receptacle and 15 amp line already exist for your CDP?
In any event, you will be adding the Furutech and I assume running new 12 gauge Romex to a 20A breaker at the circuit panel.
Make sure your electrician installs the ground wires from both dedicated lines to the Ground Bar in the circuit panel.

OK, I've got it now. It sounds like a solid plan.
Running both lines to the ground bar in the panel means that they will share the same ground, less chance of a ground-loop.

Please let us know how it all comes together. You have great components.

In my research the most important element seems to be a layer of carbon fiber on the cover to protect against RFI and vibration.
Some forums recommend using a non-magnetic stainless steel cover. Available for quad receptacles.

These were highly recommended for duplex outlets...

Furutech 104-D Carbon Fiber Hi-Performance Duplex Outlet Cover Plate

Oyaide Electric High-grade Outlet Wpc-z

I think it should be mentioned that the electrician runs both dedicated lines to the same leg (phase) at the service panel. Then your entire system will be wired to the same phase.

Why does anyone think that they need a 20A dedicated circuit for a CDP?

How bout planning for the future? Adding more components, a server, subwoofer, whatever.

@tattooedtrackman,
No, u don't need to install a 20A line for a CDP. But since your 15A AC line is native to your house, I'll bet there are other wall outlets with devices or appliances tied into that circuit. IOW, it probably is a shared line with noise being introduced from the other devices.

 And since u now have a 20A Furutech duplex receptacle, it makes sense to run a new 12 gauge line with new breaker. As Elizabeth explained so well, your CDP doesn't care if the circuit is 15 or 20 amps, it only draws the amount of current needed. 
But, in the future if you add more components to your system, you may wish you had installed a 20 amp circuit.

Did u see my post above stating that the line for your CDP is most likely shared?
If so, then you need to run a dedicated line.

Tattoo... the CDP line needs to be on the same leg of the service panel as your 20A dedicated line, (same phase).
 Also there should not be any appliances on that shared line that will add noise to your audio hookup.

Not sure i know what you mean by needs to be on the same leg of the service panel as my 20A dedicated line, same phase. And what do you mean by appliances? blender ? microwave? toaster? Im not trying to be funny but i have a dedicated listening room. Its not in my kitchen.

The wiring in a residence is called split-phase and is divided into 2 legs. On the service panel you will see Leg A and Leg B. The goal in the panel is to even out the load, half the current draw on A and half on B. If you wire a refrigerator on A, then a second high current appliance such as air conditioning should be wired to B.

Simply put, In an audio system, we want all the components on the same leg so there is minimal noise from other devices wired into the panel. 
And yes, I am talking about toaster, blender, refrigerator; all adding noise and interference down the AC line and contaminating the other circuits.
Electricians are only concerned with balancing the current draw in the house, so roughly half from Leg A and half from Leg B. And they commonly will daisy chain several AC outlets onto the same breaker. The kitchen toaster outlet may be combined with the lights in your living room.

If some of your audio system is wired to A and some to B, there is more risk of noise from the circuits in the other leg of the panel getting into your audio lines.

A test for a shared line is to turn off the breaker to your CDP and see what other outlets in your house lose power.

https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/13105/are-both-legs-of-a-homes-power-supply-equally-used

@elizabeth is exactly right.
To take this concept further, the ideal setup of the service panel for cleaner audio would be to have your dedicated audio breakers grouped together at the top of the panel. Or at the bottom, if that's where the wiring enters.

So, if the lines enter at the top, your audio lines would be in the first breakers, same leg. Then the heavy duty appliances that you listed would be far away near the bottom split between Legs A and B. The theory being that the noise introduced into the panel would not be close to the audio breakers.
But, since the grounds and neutrals are shared, noise will still contaminate the rest of the panel to a lesser extent.

To take noise reduction even further, many audiophiles use a subpanel for their audio lines. This is a smaller dedicated circuit box attached to the main service panel. 
When I expanded my system (which is very modest), I received step by step advise from our most experienced members on how to do this in my house. Now that I have a subpanel which has it's own ground and is tied to the service panel, the noise floor at my audio setup is extremely low. It helped in my case because I live in a prewar row home with a mix of old and new wiring.

If you had all new electrical installed in your home and the distribution of current draw is laid out well, you will be in very good shape with 2 dedicated lines. If you run that 2nd line, move it close to line #1 on the same leg.

First, you're lucky to have all new wiring giving your panel clean connections. Mine is old, that's why I have a new subpanel.

The best position for the audio breakers is away from the high current appliances such as refrigerator, furnace,  A/C, hot tub. I think you should try to have some space between the audio circuits and these appliances. Since it's newly wired it should be easy to relocate a breaker or two. My electrician moved some breakers to install the subpanel.

Imagine your amp, preamp breaker sits next to the refrigerator or A/C. Those appliances are always running, sending noise down the line to their connections plus your audio breakers. In this case, you would either move the audio breaker or move the appliance breaker.

Well, @dynaquest4, perhaps you should question Jea our resident electrical expert.

Since the subject of vibration through receptacle covers was mentioned, I'd like some advice. The covers on my duplexes are not perfectly flush to the drywall so I'd like to secure them.
  I have two 20A dedicated lines coming from a subpanel, then wired to Hubbell duplexes. I'm using large non-magnetic stainless steel covers which are very rugged.

I want to insulate the inside of the covers to insure a more secure fit. Should I use rubber or Sorbethane, or would there be any benefit in using carbon fiber fabric or tape?
All this talk about buying Oyaide carbon fiber covers has me wondering.

Hi @elizabeth. I saw your earlier post about Blu-Tack, I didn't realise that you spread the product over the entire duplex cover.
  What's your take on RFI leakage thru the AC receptacle; does this need to be treated? Or is vibration control the only aspect that needs to be addressed? A lot of folks are spending big money on carbon fiber receptacle covers.
Thanks.

I get that the Blu Tack is only on the backside, that's where I want to use damping material. 
So, I intend to stop vibration at the receptacles, but do you believe that this area also needs treatment for RFI?

I'm not going buy carbon fiber treated covers, but I'm still looking for an explanation of how RF can be generated or exist at the AC receptacle.
 

Thanks so much, Elizabeth, terrific explanation. Now it makes sense why you have the quartz crystals in different areas, and why so many tweaks are for sale to treat these same areas.
  I was aware of possible RFI being found in the obvious areas such as unshielded AC cable and transformers. The Crystals and similar tweaks to be used system-wide seemed unnecessary to me.
The Greenlee tool could be useful.
Thanks again.