Replacing generic RECEPTACLES

I do not know if moving the wires in the box would actually matter. Sorry I cannot advise you on that.

For cheapskates, Even ordinary Pass & Seymour 5362 heavy duty outlets are superior to most hardware store ones   $5 or so..  Here is a Amazon link https://www.amazon.com/Pass-Seymour-Specification-Heavy-Duty-Receptacle/dp/B008SBH18M/ref=sr_1_15?ie... They continue to hold their grip for many many years. I use them with my $$$$$$ stereo.    
Avoid Leviton.. they are really junk and the outlets lose any grip quickly.Audiogon, if the link is forbidden sorry I did not mean to break any rules.

According to various Googled sources, it IS allowed to use 15 amp receptacles on a multi receptacle 20 amp line. There are conflicting statements in the NEC code. But the consensus is the multi 15 duplex on 20amp branch is OK per NEC. On a one only single duplex for a 20 amp branch, no. that outlet should be a 20.As for using a 20amp for a CDP. Who cares? A CDP is using 20 to 40 watts, maximum. The power cord for the CDP can be 20 gauge magnet wire, like  Mapleshade.. Or a 7 gauge Pangea.  
You can have a 20 amp circuit with one 5 watt light bulb. The bulb uses 5 watts, whether the cord it uses is capable of delivering 20 amps or is only some 22 gauge magnet wire. The light bulb does not care.I would add, if you are so uncertain, do NOT do it. Find someone who can deal with it. Making mistakes when it can be dangerous? Just do not do it. Or at least find out enough to feel confident.Fiddling with stuff you do not understand is not a good idea.

Googling 20 amp duplex on 15 amp wires NEC says no. The NEC is not the wire police. They are guides used by electricians as to what they can and cannot do since they are contractors and THEY have legal and liability concerns. For the apartment dweller, or homeowner. Those concerns are not a law, You cannot go to jail for using a 20 amp duplex on a 15 amp line! But in the event of a fire caused by your 20amp duplex.. Your insurance company may have problems... The fact is the breaker is going to trip (15amp) before your 20 amp duplex gets to flow 20 amps, over heating the 15 amp wiring in the wall and box.
So the answer is technically no, you cannot use that 20 amp duplex on a 15 amp branch, and no electrician will install it (maybe)... But YOU CAN, if you want to break the rules, knowing the consequences. Anyway, If you cannot sleep at night knowing you have done this, then do not do it. I have no problem with using a 20 amp duplex on a 15 amp line. (BTW I use a 20 amp circuit for my system)

czarivey, Did you buy a used home? Or move into a preexisting apartment? I guarantee the duplex outlets there are all old as the building is. No normal person replaces any duplex until they are broken. that usually means the duplex outlets when YOU move in, are already 10 to 40 years old.   When I move into a new apartment, I replace all the outlets with new ones right off. Ditto the light switches.(since I stay more than ten years.. it just makes sense to me.)So generally replacing outlets is more like replacing nearly broken down crap that works, but does so poorly, with something that will work well for years to come.++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++TTman.. As for the quad 20 amp circuit. That is all you need, usually. Unless you like to play music at over 100dB (which is really loud)In that case it will not matter anyway, since you will soon be deaf. and the distortion in your ears will mask any in the equipment.
So I am saying you do not need a separate circuit for your CDP, or preamp, or any other equipment.  If you want some improvement, I would suggest getting a small powerline conditioner for your CDP, plugged into the same circuit as the amp.

"Over heating of the wire in the wall. But the wire is 12 gauge anyway..... ??
ALL the wire in most places I have lived is always 12 gauge in the wall anyway. 15 or 20 amp circuit.
The requirement for a 20 amp service line is 12 gauge wire....As long as we are getting all technical.
So if you line has a 12 gauge wire in the wall, even though it has a 15 amp breaker, then the fear of overheated wire is lost on the 12 gauge in wall wires. (naturally this precludes really long runs.. But whose house has rooms 200 ft long anyway???)

I like a brass cover. Brass is just as good as the Carbon Fiber and wayyyyy cheaper.   Also taping the plug-end edge of the blades with Teflon plumbers tape. The tape gets pushed up against the space between the outlet and the plug in use, sealing it.

Brass is non magnetic. It still conducts. It will drain the sneaky wandering electrons just as well as the Carbon Fiber. In fact maybe better.
Naturally the brass just looks like brass, where the carbon fiber looks like money.     I place a thin layer of Blu Tack type stuff under the brass cover to help with vibration.    A brass dual duplex cover costs about $5 at Home Depot. The Blu Tack about $3  
Since the Carbon Fiber as you posted is costing you $374 naturally it is better at draining... your wallet.

Remember to get solid brass, and not brass plated. Usually the brass plated will say brass plated steel...When you get then, (to be certain) just test them with a magnet. Brass will not attract the magnet. The brass plated steel will attract the magnet.

One useful cheap tool to use in the ever exciting world of AC power is a "GreenLee GT-16 Adjustable Voltage Detector" They now cost about $23 on Amazon. (Other brands do not work as well for sniffing stray AC The GT -16 has a good adjustable range, and works well for AC) Once you have one, you can sniff out all the stray voltage escaping from your AC wires, plugs, and equipment screens etc..So odd things too, Like pole lamps spray a ton of AC contamination.. When the basic zip cord in running up inside the metal lamp pole.. Another place are umbilicals of two box preamps. I own two of them And both umbilicals spray a ton of 300V stuff (Both use tubes)
ALL AC outlets spray electrons out the unblocked holes..
One of the reasons I still like Pangea power cords is they are REALLY well shielded. No stray voltage there. *except atthe molded plug ends)
So with the GT-16, I can see I stop all the stray voltage out of a duplex with the brass plate. (if the holes in the duplex outlet (for plugs) are filled with metal body grounded plugs.
That is all you are doing with the Carbon Fiber one too.

I also find the Teflon plumbers tape tweak to stop the escape of stray voltage from duplex.
That is wrap each AC plug 3 metal prong bases with a few turns around each prong base with the tape. The plug, when inserted the duplex will push the tape and crush it between the plug and duplex, creating a insulation shield where that small space of blade is exposed... so the sneaky electrons do not sneak out the crack. naturally I cannot hear any difference with this. But it is a dexterity challenge, and fun to mess with. One time added and usually the Teflon tape will stay in place over several pluggings. and unpluggings.
Complete waste of time, but for fanatics... Nothing is to obscure or odd.

"" Only months later, I installed the Wall Plate, and I had noticed improvement with the wall plate. ""   My comment might be: Maybe it was just unplugging and replugging the plug that made the difference? I have noticed the simple act of unplugging and replugging AC plugs/IEC plugs to solidly  improve the sound, after a few months of just sitting there. Removes the oxides growing in the connection.? Anyway, that is my response.

Ahh yes, the old "first xxx of wire, so..." If all you do is make up fantasy theory in your head, that may work well. If you actually get the fancy wire for your powercord and TRY IT OUT you may discover, as many of us have, that it can, and does make a difference.

I have. And can say there are major differences in the quality of plain old cheap ($3 to $5) receptacles. Some have internal metal parts which are thin and have little strength. (Particularly bottom feed cheap as can get ones And those cheap multi-outlet sorts) Other have four times thicker metal blades! (yeah even low cost ones) and really great ability to hold the inserted blades over years and years of abuse.
MY praise goes to Pass & Seymour heavy duty outlets for being really well built. One other major difference between 15 amp and 20 amp is the fact the 20 have that ’extra’ strength due to the way the clamping is done on the one odd horizontal blade of the 20 amp plug.The design really is stronger than a 15 amp innards.      
Some high end actually use springs inside, like Furutech. Other are basically like the Pass & Seymour in design inside.

The electricity only is used as needed. As mentioned before, you can put a 2 watt nightlight on a 20 amp line. the night light happily draws 2 watts. No problem. Ditto your 20 watt electronic device. You may have 200 amp service to a big house, and at night while asleep, you may use as little as zero watts. the powerline is NOT exploding due to your lack of use. Like water in a pipe. it is happy to sit there until you turn on the faucet.  There is no reason NOT to add a 20 amp line and use it for 20 watts. or for nothing. The line does not care if it gets used in any way at all. Think of it as a future use, maybe...

My digital equipment is on the same 20 amp line. HOWEVER my digital gear is on a separate power conditioner.
My main conditioner is a Furman REF20i And my digital conditioner is a PS Audio P600 regenerator. Both both used here on the goN.
For folks without multi anything.. I would suggest some ferrite clamps on the digital AC cords to help keep the grunge out of the system.

I bought the PS Audio P600 exclusively to increase the AC power output FREQUENCY. I wanted to experiment with it after reading about AC frequency boosts improving sound (in Stereophile).I waited until I found one used for sale with the optional board it could use installed.I have no good or bad things to say about the PS Audio 600 other than it does the job I want it for. Out-putting AC voltage at 111Hz.I just read the new PS Audio "20" also is going to be able to alter the AC frequency. I guess they were actually listening to my rants that no one offers alternate AC frequency anymore and someone should!

On the other hand... That line may have nothing on it.
One thing I always do when I move into a place is find what each breaker controls, (including ceiling lights and wall switches) use a label maker to note it on breaker box.
Also the fact of having an incandescent bulb on, (with no dimmer) on a line actually REDUCES the noise. Really. A kind of noise trapper, for almost free.  
This does not work so well with LED though. LOL.

If you use that line. see which way the lines for it run. Is your use for CDP the first outlet from the panel? or others in-between? Many times the intervening outlets will have breaks in the actual AC lines vs the AC wire being intact and bent around the outlet connections. (if bent do not cut! leave it be, as the solid wire is better than any clean cut and held by screws. even if you have to leave the old outlets in place. bent AC line is hard to bend more, best leave it alone unless replacing the outlet)
Also, you can improve the power by cleaning the wiring at each outlet (if it is cut to connect each outlet.) recut to have a fresh copper and tighten the wiring, making sure the connecting AC duplex are good and have strong means of connecting the wires. (NOT the slip in and a spring clip holds them, nor older duplex where the in wire and the out wire are on separate ends of the duplex using the bridge between the two sides of each duplex) In fact it might be best replacing the unused duplex IF they are in between the panel and your CDP outlet. but all you need are nice Pass & Seymour heavy duty. They connect the wires with a strong screw and plate which allows the AC in wires and AC out to be close side by side and a tight screwdown for max AC flow. that connection is as good as any high end outlet!(If you can’t easily tell if they are between or further out.. shut off the breaker and take out the unused ones, See if your wanted one still works when you turn the breaker back on. If it works then the others are past yours Go around the room and in series add them back.until your wanted one works. Then you know how many have to be upgraded. It they are all past your wanted one from panel, you can ignore them completely.
One other comment, if you use a duplex with a thin ’bridge’ of metal from one outlet to the other in the duplex pair, a good audiophile trick is add a 12 gauge wire in the clamp with the incoming AC wire, and add it to join the bridge with a way better wire. to the second outlet in the duplex. I also mark which duplex outlet of the pair IS the one the AC wires are on directly, vs the bridged one. use the main one, not the bridged one first, or for higher current draw current item. A little label maker labels on the cover work great for this

Testing for same leg:   
"" Say you have two lines running to the stereo equipment area.
Say line A and line B    
Line A duplex The hot is the narrow slot (if the ground is on the bottom, the right slot)     
Within a single duplex:       
The neutral is the wide. or left slot     
AC voltmeter prongs in narrow and wide reads around* 120V   
AC voltmeter prongs in narrow and ground will also read 120V    
AC voltmeter prongs in wide and ground will read 0V    
(if you readings within a single duplex are different, the duplex is wired WRONG.)       

Same if you go to just line B duplex. same results within line B duplex

However to test if line A and line B are on same or different legs.    
AC voltmeter prongs in narrow slot of line A (Hot)     
AC voltmeter other prong in narrow slot of line B (Hot)    
If this reading is 240 volts, you are using both legs.    
If it is zero 0V then you are using the SAME leg and are safe.   

To just mention (but these do not matter to the test) other connections.   
If you connect the AC voltmeter from line A wide slot to line B wide slot the reading will also be 0V no matter if one leg or both legs.
If you connect line A wide slot to line B narrow slot 120V no matter if one leg or both legs. Line A ground to line B narrow will be 120V
Same thing line B wide slot to line A narrow slot 120V no matter if both legs or one leg. Line B narrow slot to line A ground will be 120V

* the voltage may be near 120V it may be 115V or may be 125V, but it will be close.   
Same thing wit the 240V reading, it may be somewhat off, but still near 240, 230 243 etc.    

" but if there are appliances on both legs why would it matter. Curious.... "                        
It matter due to those sorts of devices adding noise to the AC waveform on the line. The noise sort of wanders around if it is on the same line. that is why separate lines are a big thing to audiophiles. Now the noise may even get there anyway, and the power may already have a lot of noise from outside your home. It is just trying to cut down on the garbage in the AC power.

Gee dynaquest4, what part of: ""I do not know if moving the wires in the box would actually matter. Sorry I cannot advise you on that."" did you miss? maybe all of it? Smearing everyone since that is the easy way? Or because your theory is always right and everyones else actual experience is wrong?  Whatever, please get over it.

The actual rule is if you do not like aftermarket wires and such, just keep posting drivel until no one wants to read it anymore .The flack and crap get to water down any actual discussion, until basically the nay sayers win. They are on a mission. Why I have no idea, but that they do this is clear. One way they do this is to GET YOU TO ANSWER their crap questions. This just gives them more ammunition to attack you. Plus wastes your time. Fills up the thread with useless stuff, and detracts from the main questions.

I recently bought a pile of power cords to replace some older ones.
Good improvement. So now I am getting some Furutech duplex. My BIG PLAN for breaking the five outlets all at once is to daisy-chain them.I have the eight extra Wattgate plugs I would need. Install the first Furutech in the wall, both outlets of each with plugs wired into the next one, (12 gaige wire) each side. repeat three more times. then plug my big system pair of plugs in to the top one. The new plugs get burned in, all five outlets get burned in.Yeah it will be interesting to HEAR my system with that in the wall.I figure I can leave them a month like that. (I am betting in 24 hours I will not notice it anymore)
The outlet is on a kitchen wall.. Just have to arrange to keep it untouchable.. for a month. (cover with a box?)

Ahh rethinking the receptacles. Am only getting ONE new gold GTX-D to play with. Decided the others were half way stuff. And I am tired of foolishly buying halfway to just soon enough go all the way. up to the better ones So I cancelled the FPX ones.

I wanted a 'warm' one to start with.I would think it is the easiest to 'hear' as a difference before I spend any more on receptacles.Plus I want to warm up my amp a little, maybe.
Curious I was also reading a thread with other folks high value of the Pass & Seymour (non audiophile) receptacles.  I have separately been a fan of them for many years.Anyway trying out one high end well regarded receptacle should be good.

Thanks, I would be interested in how they sound. I would guess it will take awhile for them to really break in? I am going to use my idea of two plugs with wiring directly to the back of the new duplex. plugging that into the possible to replace duplex, then the equipment in to the new duplex. to see how it sound from my Furman for the preamps. I do not want to have to do a LOT of work just to hear it there (taking apart the box, etc..) so I am hoping to get a glimpse by piggy backing the new duplex over the one in the case. As long as I avoid shocking myself LOL
Then it goes into the space for the Amp duplex.

There is truth to just exposing new clean copper, and replacing the old outlet with a new one. I personally use Pass & Seymour heavy duty duplex. They cost about $6 now. (personally you could not GIVE me a Leviton..)  Also, the truth of just unplugging and replugging everything once a year matters. And if you have unplated copper, cleaning the contacts too.I have often scrapped off the surface of copper (like in coax cable TV lines) with the tip of an Exacto blade to clean the oxidation off.I would tend to do the scraping before cutting.. There is only so much extra wire in the wall!

Well I used my tweaked moveable* Furutech GTX-gold duplex all over the place. and find a few good spots. So I am buying another one to actually install in the wall there. Then I can continue to move me moveable one around to see where it, or a second one could best go.I kind of am trying to not install one in a conditioner.. But if I have to.(I think I may have to trim the 'ears' sticking up and down on the duplex. and that is a tough job with ones so heavy duty.)I think two is plenty. If I go for a third, I would go with the Rhodium..* I made it moveable by adding two AC Wattgate plugs(no shell) to the bottom of the Furutech with short as possible 12 gauge. Taped over the screws in the Wattgate plugs. So the Furutech plugs into the existing duplex, and the cords into the Furutech. Goofy but helpful to decide WHERE to best use the $$$ Furutech.

When going for the lowest price.. I would never buy from eBay. or Alibaba. Not even Amazon Marketplace.  Just too many chances they end up being fake. Particularly Oyaide have fakes from China. I buy only from sellers I trust, even it it costs a few dollars more. Then I KNOW they are not going to be fakes.

I can say my Furutech GTX gold duplex cost $145 each (on sale $70 off regular price ends July 31) I have two installed and a third on the way.I may also buy one GTX-R Rhodium plated.later. My setup has been geared to the greatest clarity I can find.. And had become a bit lean sounding. The gold Furutech were just the ticket to warm it up a little. All around much better, though a little too much bass for my apartment on a few recordings. But for the majority, perfect.          
I have nothing to say about outlet covers affecting sound. LOL Only that I do use solid brass covers from Menards. $5 $6. (non magnetic)

I just posted this n another thread about outlets.." The most interesting thing to my mind full of economic stuff is the cost of high end duplex. Compared to cables, which can range from a few dollars to $multiple tens of thousands per meter pair! ditto speaker cables and powercords. duplex are NOT expensive. decent cost $6 good cost $50 The best cost less than $300. (and are on sale of late for a lot less) Which is only the price of a moderate cost pair of IC. Dirt cheap in the grand scheme of uber $$$$ wire stuff. So for high end audio, the one place where high end money driven madness has NOT struck is duplex outlets. " (even a simple power strip can cost $3000 plus) But I bet the top prices will soon double.. Just a hunch.also: " So with all that in mind I jumped in and bought a dozen Furutech duplex. 7 gold, 5 Rhodium, Planning mass burn in, daisy chaining 10 of them them all front to back. (two are already in use) .. for a month.(note I am not fussing about trying every outlet from Tesla to Blue whatever.)
For the cost of two pair of the sort of IC I am now using, I can have every important outlet in my system/conditioners and such high end duplex." And yes it may be a tiny change but that is what matters. And the fact i will never have to change them again.All this in preparation for perhaps trying a real high end powercord. but first I have to optimize the system on the new duplex when they are broken in.

OK I connected FIVE new outlets daisy chain style and plugged them into the Kitchen wall between my plugs for stereo and wall. I only have five of the ten total, which arrived. Five is plenty to have plugged together anyway! Leave them there for at least two weeks.. I put up a big sign on top of them. In case I die and some dummy touches them live... Not good.Listening to the stereo through five new Furutech in a row... A bit thin sounding... But at least they all will be broken in equally.. LOL

My only fear is scratching up the interior of the new duplex with the silver plated raw wire ends... To connect them I added 5 cm 12 gauge  wire to back (on each side of each duplex) bent to flow into the face slots of the next duplex. I tied the duplex together with hair bands along the top and bottom duplex attachment points.

I stopped waiting for the 500 hours, I could not stand waiting for 200 hours. SO I pulled two duplex off the burn in.                
I also had to redo the end of the AC to the amp area (I previously split the quad AC wires into two branch AC duplex boxes. I had to take apart the previous work, and fix it up. (The main concern was keeping the HOT wires marked, so no fooling around searching which are the hot. (since all are the same color))             
I redid the quad twist all the way to the end, and used both pair of wires into BOTH duplex. One being Furutech GTX DR NCF, and the other a Furutech GTX D gold. Mainly so I can swap and discover which I like better for the amp, over time. (And this gives the amp 2 twelve gauge AC or an actual 9 gauge extension from the far kitchen 20 amp outlet). Since to do the work the stereo was off for about two hours.. So no just flipping a switch and say wow, nice.The next task is to install duplex into the Furman power conditioner.

A few hours later... I tried both with Deep Purple Machine Head. I felt the gold was too smoothing over for the best amp sound. Playing the same CD I like it better with the NCF Rhodium. Nothing hysterical to report. maybe a little more finesse on the HF, blacker background? A tiny bit more fine detail?
I am not disappointed. positive move.PS the change in the AC line is not gonna be noticed. I had them jumped together prior anyway.(I am always trying to keep the bass from becoming too prominent. Apartment living and over 55 old people do not play well with (even moderately) loud stereo thumps through the walls.)

This morning I opened the Furman REF20i and started swapping receptacles. Sadly the first ’high current’ is so tightly held by the wires, plus it has a big filter on the back, glued on, I decided to at least for now, skip trying to swap it. To do so I would need to add on some wire.. The second high power was easier, so I took it off, used a GTX gold, and reconnected the filter to the Furutech. Also did to two of the four ’Technical power’ regular outlets. also switched the filters to the Furutech Duplex.One each Rhodium and Gold GTX.
Two othr duplex in the Technical power section run the plasma TV, the power for Kuzma TT motor, and two DVD players. things I do not think need the Furutech touch!          
So now my Marantz SA-10, The Rudistor RPX 33 headamp, the CJ ACT2, and Bryston BP-26 are now all added to Furutech Duplex.Added: just twenty minutes of playing... goosebumps.. The music has more finesse now. The perfect upgrade. Whoo Hoo!!

David. Actually the main reason is I ran out of outlets. Prior to the current five I recently put in, I had one in wall, and one for AC to conditioners.                              
I put two in to try both the Rhodium and Gold for the amp. Then three in the PC. I have five more coming. I am going to condition those daisy chained too. Then two for the PS Audio P-600 conditioner, and ?? I'll have to see. I can always just plug the TV in to one of the current Furutech. and see if it it looks better!Thanks for mentioning the TT. I will have to do at least one more in the Furman. Maybe two.

I just wanted tp mention my new Furutech in the Furman sound terrible and wonderful. Better clarity, but the entire frequency spectrum is messed up. IE less midrange too much treble treble. I had thought my attempt at breaking the Furutech outlets in by daisy chaining htem would help. Nope. In fact that seems to have made the real break in WORSE.I would guess because the wires were not in the same loctions as plug blades? Anyway, Here;s to hoping a few days of playing will settle the Furutech outlets down.

The odd frequency thing has cleared up. The duplex definitely offer greater clarity in the music playing on my system.I am thinking of replacing some of the wiring in the Furman going to 12 gauge MilSpec Teflon 600V  wire. It would ease the tightness, remove a bunch of crimped on AC connectors at the duplex end.(Cutting the connectors off as is would leave the wiring to short to work. The wiring is that tightly fitted.) The wiring comes from the transformer to a long old fashioned connecting bar (with dividers and twin sets of screws) So aside from tedious untangling the harness from each duplex to the bar, looks straight forward.)The last group of Duplex has arrived. I have enough to cover every outlet throughout the system, including all in power conditioners.

With about half the Duplex I bought in the system, I an say they are improving the sound.                        
I moved the Plasma TV to the Furman REF20i Furutech outlet with the NCF rhodium. eye popping improvement in less (Meaning no grain at all) grain in the picture. A few black and white films being played (over the air) were much sharper than they seem usually.             
It is nice to have a different medium show the improvement.

Update on progress installing Furutech duplex. I removed the gold GTX from the 20amp wall and replaced it with a GTX Rhodium NCF.Seems the closer to AC end 'like' the Rhodium NCF, and the component ends like the gold GTX. (Though I have the Rhodium to the amp duplex anyway. But all the rest, particularly sources, seem to sound better when the duplex is the gold GTX (than the Rhodium)I am still 'up in the air' for preamps, since I do not have a Rhodium set to try it on them yet.         
I put a Rhodium in the Furman Technical power area, but is does no good there. So my future plan is to move it to the Poweramp 120V/0v side of the Furman. And just keep gold GTX on the technical power 60v/60v side for sources. Then I can find out how well the Rhodium NCF compares to the GTX gold in the 120v/0v power section of the Furman.. on the preamps.  (that section has space for 2 duplex)     
I own and use Bryston BP-26, Conrad Johnson ACT2, Audible Illusions 3A, and an Audio Research Sp-15.   Right no they are on the GTX gold (Bryston and CJ), or the stock 120V duplex left in the Furman   (ARC and AI)  
The general system sound adding the Furutech is clearer, more detail. Better
pop' more snap to the music. A slight irritation seems to be gone. It was more like an extra enhancement to the treble than any sort of grunge. More HF energy then normal before break in. But that is passing. 
I would say the first few Furutech duplex made the most change. The added ones are more like smaller enhancements.
The change is kind of like a couple of better ICs or powercord..

Just to clarify (too late to modify) the words’"and a base Wattgate ICE"copper" It SUCKED. was in error.
The base Wattgate IEC plug is all brass, not copper. (the silver is silver plated brass.)

Time has passed. I bought one more Furutech GTX-D NCF Rhodium duplex. And a few Furutech ’28’ Rhodium plugs.(the first two plugs to replace a pair of Wattgate copper (cheap) at the kitchen wall. Finished (and actually redid the first few duplex) Furutech duplex in the Furman REF20i. No wire replacement. Was able to do all with the original wiring. Deliberately plugged my in-use preamps into the new Rhodium duplex/ To see how it changes the sound (again).
With buying the latest Rhodium I have a gold left over. I do have an unused box on one of the two lines with a old duplex it it. I may stick it in there just to be sure the wiring is good inside. I have no memory of how I wired it into one quad AC line It was at least seven years ago. I may move one power conditioner too. That may work well with that extra duplex anyway.I currently have the Furman halfway from main rack to amp. As I used to have the amp plugged in to the Furman. Now I do not. so no need to have it so far away from main rack.I am liking the Rhodium more. At first, the Rhodium was annoying, but as time passes the Rhodium just gets better.
I also made a home made power cord with my quad twist wire, and a pair of Furutech ’28’ Rhodium plugs. To use between the floor box and Furman REF20i. It was the same price (with the sale going on at VH Audio) as a Pangea AC9SE signature (2 m). After breaking in for a month I can compare then and see if it is any better. sounding. I made a different PC with a my Quad wire, Wattgate silver Edison plug, and a base Wattgate ICE copper. It SUCKED. I guess I am getting fussier about how my AC plugs sound?            
I saved 31% off retail (average) with sales on duplex and plugs I bought.

This morning I installed the LAST Furutech duplex (I just bought it a few days ago.  decided one more Rhodium for the high current lines in the Furman (witch I use for preamps) was a good idea.So I took out a gold from the Furman While gluing the big piggyback line cleaner/gizmos to the two High current duplex, instead of just let them hang.Then took THAT gold used to add a single box to the (previous) end of the amp line, thus allowing me to extend it four feet, (with 4ft of quad wire) and the original box with two Furutech to new end of amp line now four feet closer to amp. Allowing a maybe 1.5 m or definite 2m powercord. Where before it really had to be at least three meters and I had used a four meter powercord. (ever see what a high end FOUR METER power cord costs???)
I hope I am DONE with duplex. (a least until.....)

boxer12, I was writing to fulfill your request for over ten minutes when my computer turned itself off. the Universe is telling me not to write a review at this time! Sorry, I take coincidences under serious consideration. So no review  at this time. Maybe in a few weeks.

Country n/a... maybe he has no idea? he is sleepwalking... Maybe for years?

I see my diatribe about your proselytizing in another thread has not dampened your efforts, sleepwalker65. I guess you are aptly named. Sleepwalking though a great era in High Fidelity. And so certain about your beliefs! Good for you! Just keep it up, I am certain someone, somewhere will find your efforts to be enlightening.You really may have a calling. Maybe walk around Times Square with a sandwich board proclaiming "WIRES ARE WIRES" and you can pass out pamphlets on the dangers of High End power toys.

I KNEW! he is an EE. They are so brainwashed...LOLI feel sorry for his inability to see beyond the dogma filling his head. Monster Cable is so "1980"s though.."All out insults stem from insecurity.".. Just keep telling yourself that.Actually the insults are because you dump drivel on threads that you cannot fathom.

Thank you Geoff. Those two can comfort each other.. how sweet.

I love that tossed out notion of brainwashing. Seems the dude sleepwalking is the washed out brain here. I guess my excesses in the duplex department have caused some sort of Cosmic Upheaval in the wire is wire crowd. Se they sent the clown in. I also like how he thinks he is ’educating’ somebody, like they think their brainwashing can counteract the ’other’ brainwashing... And they think it has nothing to do with choice, intelligence of finding for oneself what works well in one’s own system. Sad, pathetic and disgusting.
On Geoff’s comment, yeah outlet covers?? I use BlueTack stuff under brass outlet covers to dampen the vibes And put small polished quartz chips covered with Automotive dielectric grease, in small baggies in and around the Duplex housings (I also fill the Furutech plug bodies with the chips, no baggie)((Automotive dielectric grease is very very bad for eyes, anyone thinking of using it needs to be super careful NOT to get any of the grease on fingers.. mainly so not get in eyes. It really hurts the eyes and is bad. So heads up and wear disposable gloves if handling anything with dielectric grease in/on/around it))

To folks just reading the last page of this thread. be aware all the ’deleted’ posts belong EXCLUSIVELY to sleepy dude. So Audiogon deletes posts for offensive language, attacking another member (But it has to be pretty harsh, since look at the others, So be aware Sleep’s ’claims’ of being an innocent puppy are not true,