Power amp around $3000 for C-J Classic preamp

FWIW, Steve McCormack owns Vandersteen 3A Signature loudspeakers. They are what he uses in his reference system to voice his amplifiers (and his SMc Audio component modifications).

The Vandersteen/McCormack pairing is a no-brainer if you want to avoid guesswork.

Unsound really offered the most sound advice. The OP seems to be headed toward a wholesale system change over the next year or so.

Decide on speakers first. Then the appropriate amp. Then the preamp.

Choosing a preamp first before speakers or amplifier is really going about it completely backward, and frankly it's a recipe for disaster.

CJ doesn't list the output impedance specification of the Classic preamp, so matching with an amplifier becomes more complicated. You should call CJ to get an answer to this important question.

You might be best off with a CJ amp to avoid the matching guesswork.

Whether the CJ amp is the best choice for the speakers you choose is another question.

Good luck.

03-04-10: Actusreus
I called C-J and the Classic's output impedance is 200 Ohms. If, as general rule, the amp's input impedance should be at least 10 times the output impedance of the preamp...

IMO, that 10x rule of thumb is an oft repeated fallacy. What is more appropriate, is 10x the measured *high* output impedance of the preamp.

Output impedance will always vary along the frequency range. While the CJ may have a nominal output impedance of 200 ohms, it's not unreasonable to expect a high output impedance from a tube preamp of something along the lines of 2000 ohms. For examples, read a few of John Atkinson's test measurements sections of Stereophile tube preamp reviews. You'll see how output impedance varies considerably from the manufacturer's nominal specification.

The bottom line is that the higher the input impedance of an amp, the better will be the success of matching a tube preamp.

BTW, the Vandy 3A Sigs have a fairly flat impedance curve, which would allow the use of tube amplification if that's of interest to you.

In your $3000 price range, look at used Rogue M-150 or M-180 monoblocks: 150wpc (although at 87dB, the 3A Sig might like even more power), 200k ohm input impedance.

FWIW, I would go for more than 90 tube watts with the Vandersteens.
Unsound (System | Threads | Answers)

Absolutely agree, which is why I suggested the M-150 or M-180 monoblocks.

One can buy used M-150 or M-180 monoblock amps for the cost of a new Stereo 90. It's a no brainer, IMO.

Buying an amp based on what you hear on Vandy 5A speakers when you intend to buy Vandy 3A speakers is a mistake.

The 5A and the 3A Signature do not offer a useful comparison since the 5A speakers have their own powered subwoofers and the 3A speakers do not.

Actusreus, in the long run, the Rogue monoblcks will be a superior match with the Vandy 3A Signature speakers, and they will provide you with a wider choice of other speakers from which to choose.

I have no doubt the dealer you visited is strongly guiding you toward the Stereo 90. Consider the possibility that he is trying to make a sale, and that he may not have your best, long term interests in mind.

I have no doubt the dealer you visited is strongly guiding you toward the Stereo 90. Consider the possibility that he is trying to make a sale, and that he may not have your best, long term interests in mind.
Tvad (Threads | Answers)

I should qualify this by mentioning that the dealer may be guiding you toward the Stereo 90 given the budget you have mentioned, and that given a bigger budget he may have recommended the monoblocks. He should be given the benefit of the doubt.

As I noted earlier, used Rogue monoblocks are essentially the same price as a new Stereo 90.

About used tube gear: I have no experience with tube gear; are there any considerations or risks when buying it used aside from possible warranty issues? Thanks.
Actusreus (Answers)

IMO, buying used from Audiogon sellers is pretty safe. There's no trick to buying used tube gear versus any other gear.

Do some research about the seller. See if he/she has feedback, and is he/she has contributed to the discussions.

Ask specific questions about the gear. For example, ask the seller to describe specifically any cosmetic flaws and operational issues rather than to provide just a general description of condition.

Get serial numbers and check them with the manufacturer to see when the components were sold and if they have been serviced.

Obviously, most used gear is not warrantied, but in my experience, I have never had a single issue with a unit failing or requiring servicing within what would have been the remaining warranty period (and beyond).

You're welcome.

Good luck with whatever direction you go.

03-09-10: Unsound
Don't rule out ss.

Agreed.

If you get to the point of actually purchasing 3A Signature loudspeakers, then email or call Steve McCormack. He's exceedingly accessible. Tell him your budget and ask him what amplification he'd recommend.

He'll set you up with an ideal solid state match for the Vandys.

...as a point of disclosure, I should make an addendum to my previous post. I am a customer of Steve McCormack's, and I greatly respect his work and attention to customer satisfaction.

I have heard his reference system on which he voices all his products and mixes his recording projects. He uses Vandy 3A Signature loudspeakers, and his system sounds exceptionally good.

That said, I don't own Vandy speakers despite his recommendation of them, nor do I own McCormack amplification, although I do own an SMc Audio VRE-1 preamp.

OK...all is disclosed.