Replacing generic RECEPTACLES


How important is it to replace your generic receptacles with audio grade receptacles . I already replaced my stock power cords to high end Shunyatas. Would it still be necessary to still change my generic receptacles to audio grade? 
128x128Ag insider logo xs@2xtattooedtrackman
@elizabeth .......... That sounds good. That warm one would probably would be the easiest to hear as a difference. After my 3 burn in and install them i will let you know what i hear. 

Thanks, I would be interested in how they sound. I would guess it will take awhile for them to really break in? I am going to use my idea of two plugs with wiring directly to the back of the new duplex. plugging that into the possible to replace duplex, then the equipment in to the new duplex. to see how it sound from my Furman for the preamps. I do not want to have to do a LOT of work just to hear it there (taking apart the box, etc..) so I am hoping to get a glimpse by piggy backing the new duplex over the one in the case. As long as I avoid shocking myself LOL
Then it goes into the space for the Amp duplex.
I have a question, and I do use special outlets, so I am not a Luddite - at least in this instance, if not others.

When I install a new outlet, I cut back the oxidized wire to expose fresh, gleaming copper. How much of the improvement that I am hearing is due to this? Has anyone been so OCD as to cut back the wire and then put the old outlet back in to see if they can hear a change?

Along the same lines, has anyone removed a junk outlet, let’s single out our friends at Leviton for example, and replaced it with a brand new outlet of the same model? And you thought that you had too much time on your hands.
There is truth to just exposing new clean copper, and replacing the old outlet with a new one. I personally use Pass & Seymour heavy duty duplex. They cost about $6 now. (personally you could not GIVE me a Leviton..)  Also, the truth of just unplugging and replugging everything once a year matters. And if you have unplated copper, cleaning the contacts too.I have often scrapped off the surface of copper (like in coax cable TV lines) with the tip of an Exacto blade to clean the oxidation off.I would tend to do the scraping before cutting.. There is only so much extra wire in the wall!
Well I used my tweaked moveable* Furutech GTX-gold duplex all over the place. and find a few good spots. So I am buying another one to actually install in the wall there. Then I can continue to move me moveable one around to see where it, or a second one could best go.I kind of am trying to not install one in a conditioner.. But if I have to.(I think I may have to trim the 'ears' sticking up and down on the duplex. and that is a tough job with ones so heavy duty.)I think two is plenty. If I go for a third, I would go with the Rhodium..* I made it moveable by adding two AC Wattgate plugs(no shell) to the bottom of the Furutech with short as possible 12 gauge. Taped over the screws in the Wattgate plugs. So the Furutech plugs into the existing duplex, and the cords into the Furutech. Goofy but helpful to decide WHERE to best use the $$$ Furutech.
@elizabeth ........ Sounds like you have a good plan going on.. I am still burning in my first of my 3 Furutech GTX D-Rhodium duplex on my Ref line. Top and bottom each 15 days burn in time. I have about another week left for the first on to be burned in and then i will move to the 2nd. And then the 3rd . 3 months total for the 3. Then i will install one with the Oyaide carbon fiber cover and the other 2 with the WPZ -Z 2 dual duplex Oyaide carbon fiber . I will be using one with my Rega Isis cdp and my other 2 with my ARC Ref 6 And Krell FPB 600. That will be on the duplex.  
I've always done a Google search to locate the least expensive place to purchase my Furutech outlets from, seems like the best price and place to purchase from always changes over time.
When going for the lowest price.. I would never buy from eBay. or Alibaba. Not even Amazon Marketplace.  Just too many chances they end up being fake. Particularly Oyaide have fakes from China. I buy only from sellers I trust, even it it costs a few dollars more. Then I KNOW they are not going to be fakes.
Elizabeth, I don't blame you.
I've been able to find good prices from some Audio stores that are very legitimate in Japan. The only drawback is the long wait for shipment.
If one doesn't want the wait time and is afraid of a fake item I suppose for peace of mind one can pay top dollar and buy from a trusted store in the good old USA :-)
Last night i just installed my first Furutech GTX -D-R with the Oyaide  WPC Z - Aluminum base with the carbon fiber cover which has been burned in for 30 days on my refig. I installed it for my cdp. The minute i put on my first cd the improvement in sound was very rewarding to my ears. The sound from my cdp was more dynamic, crisper ,  clearer , cleaner with very nice natural highs that are very revealing .It sounds like i installed a power conditioner. A VERY noticeable difference than a cheap Leviton receptacle. BIG IMPROVEMENT ....I am now burning in my second Furutech GTX-D-R for 30 days and after that one more Furutech GTX-D-R which then i will use both for my amp and preamp on my dedicated 20a line double gang box and put on the Oyaide WPC Z 2 double aluminum base with double carbon fiber cover... Cant wait to hear what those 2 will do for my amp and preamp... 
The minute i put on my first cd the improvement in sound was very rewarding to my ears. The sound from my cdp was more dynamic, crisper, clearer, cleaner with very nice natural highs that are very revealing .


So, tattoman:  How much did each of these receptacle kits cost total?  And how is the world can a face-plate, that is not connected in any way electrically, do anything acoustically and be worth over $100?  If it is the looks, I get that.  But, otherwise.....
I can say my Furutech GTX gold duplex cost $145 each (on sale $70 off regular price ends July 31) I have two installed and a third on the way.I may also buy one GTX-R Rhodium plated.later. My setup has been geared to the greatest clarity I can find.. And had become a bit lean sounding. The gold Furutech were just the ticket to warm it up a little. All around much better, though a little too much bass for my apartment on a few recordings. But for the majority, perfect.          
I have nothing to say about outlet covers affecting sound. LOL Only that I do use solid brass covers from Menards. $5 $6. (non magnetic)
@dynaquest4......Off the top of my head the cost was about $235 for each of the Furutech GTX-D-R .  The Oyaide WPC-Z Aluminum base with carbon fiber cover $235 ? And the Oyaide WPC-Z2 double Aluminum base with carbon fiber cover $350? And even though they are and look and feel very industrial and look great i did not buy them for the looks. To me and my ears between the Furutech GTX- D-R and the Oyaide WPC covers is like adding a $2500 power conditioner. It really does some incredible positive things to the sound. My next tweek is the Herbies tube dampers for my ARC Ref 6 preamp... 
Oyaide WPC-Z and Z2...... High performance mounting frame and panel....The appearance of the WPC-Z attracted audio enthusiasts and created a strong impression of mounting frame for wall outlets. In 2007, the long awaited double type base, WPC-Z2, has come on the scene. The most important function for high performance mounting frame is attenuating vibration dampening property. The hybrid materials , each of them has different resonance frequency, perform passive vibration suppression to maximize performance of the Furutech GTX -D-R .Furthermore, carbon fiber reinforced plastic, the material of face plate, has functions of static protection and electromagnetic shielding WPC-Z series are the ultimate optional accessory for unlocking unlimited potential of the Furutech GTX D-R. 
Well it sounds like you are having fun with your hobby and I suspect there are other hobbies in which people spend gobs of money on tweeks that are of questionable value. I have no problem at all with hobbies and spending your money as you see fit. What I do have difficulty with (as I’ve mentioned before) are rave reviews (like yours) that tout a tweek as if a deaf person could hear the dramatic improvement. This, I think does a disservice to new, inexperienced readers of this forum.

If a "special" plug (OK....receptacle sounds better) did squeeze out any actual improvement, I submit it would be:
1. Very subtle (like with exotic cables, interconnects and power cords); not to the over-the-top degree to which you claim.
2. Nearly undetectable unless you could switch back and forth between plugs (probably electrically impossible) in an A/B type test. Audio memory, as I hope you know, is so perishable, it is almost impossible to remember the nuances of an audio track unless the transition is near instantaneously.
3. Expectation bias. The more you spend, the higher the expectation.

I’ve been into audio for a long time and never thought I see a day that good equipment would sound so lacking that you would have to spend $900.00 on a plug. But considering what cables have done, I should have suspected. Next? Pressure suits you can wear so that after you suck all the air out of your room you can listen in a vacuum?

BTW....not looking for a debate; just posting a counter-opinion for the record. Like with politics, no one is going to change their mind but we can influence those who have not yet reached an opinion.
@tattooedtrackman while the Oyaide CF faceplates are great their weakspot (endemic to the design of US outlets) is the single screw fixing in the center leaving the edges free to vibrate. Try applying small strips of FoQ damping material across the edge of the CF plate onto the aluminium surround and you will be astonished at the improvement. When it comes to managing vibration everything matters it seems.

Also the screws have a tendency to strip so changing faceplates can be a pain, this may be an interaction with the underlying outlets (I use SR Blues, Reds and Blacks and the stripping has happened with reds)
Oyaide WPC-Z and Z2...... High performance mounting frame and panel....The appearance of the WPC-Z attracted audio enthusiasts and created a strong impression of mounting frame for wall outlets. In 2007, the long awaited double type base, WPC-Z2, has come on the scene. The most important function for high performance mounting frame is attenuating vibration dampening property. The hybrid materials , each of them has different resonance frequency, perform passive vibration suppression to maximize performance of the Furutech GTX -D-R .Furthermore, carbon fiber reinforced plastic, the material of face plate, has functions of static protection and electromagnetic shielding WPC-Z series are the ultimate optional accessory for unlocking unlimited potential of the Furutech GTX D-R.
I recently replaced my old $5 hospital grade outlets with $100 Oyaide R1's and replaced my old dedicated line comprised of 13 ga Romex with cryo'ed 10. The improvement; minimal. "Minimal" as in de minimus.  I have resolving gear-ARC Ref 6 and Ref 150 SE, Cardas Beyond cabling, etc. Carbon fiber face plates and tuned mounting boxes? C'mon Dude. Why not go the next step and replace the stud the mounting box is attached to with some harmonically tuned 2 by 4 made of ancient dried ebony wood? And the drywall should be replaced too before it introduces bad resonances since the box and plate are mounted flush with the drywall. Maybe it ought to be carbon fiber too. This sounds like the parody of Madison Avenue ad copy; " the ultimate optional accessory for unlocking unlimited potential of the Furutech GTX D-R.". I have an open mind and have implemented tons of tweaks, but this is Tice-Clock goofiness. 
@fsonicsmith .............. First of all i am only giving you MY opinion on what i did hear. And the result was ALOT more than minimal. I wrote my findings as mentioned above. I too have resolving gear. Arc Ref 6, Krell FPB 600, Rega Isis cdp. Straightwire Crescendos from speaker cable quad wired to my B&W 800 Matrix , Straightwire Crescendos XLR ICS. Shunyata Sigma HC PC , Shunyata Sigma Digital PC. Shunyata King Cobra CX. Second of all i am also using Furutech GTX -D-R with my Oyaide aluminum base and carbon fiber plates. You are giving you opinion on yours as minimal.. Thats what you are using as i am not using what you are number 1. And i dont have to keep switching outlets and plates back and forth to my judgement ....I know what i have heard before i switched. And what i am hearing now. You sound like a skeptic about those who are using SR Blue fuses  Some of those people make judgments and have not even tried them. Does that sound familiar DUDE? 
@dynaquest4...... Yes i am having alot of fun... I am trying to get the cleanest purest sound that i can and to bring out the very best in all my equipment like we all try to do. I am only telling what i have heard to my ears. And that was more than very subtle... I dont have to keep switching duplexes back and forth to hear the difference. Besides It is a small job to keep wiring and rewiring duplexes and the Alum case and plate and keep going back and forth. Like i said i know my system and have been hearing it before i installed the Furutech GTX D- R and the Oyaides.... I heard the more than minimal improvement the first time i put on a cd. Sounds really unbelievable but its true and i will put my life on that.  I also am not looking to or for a debate.as every one hears things different and every one has their own opinion... All i am saying is this is what i heard... 
@folkfreak ..........Dont know what you mean about your carbon fiber face plate vibrating... I had no problem with the center hole screw tightening or stripping.... It tightened very well and very secure with no vibration. I also used the Furutech GTX D-R.. Not the SR. Maybe they are somewhat different. 
@tattooedtrackman agreed it feels tight but the fact is the only thing supporting the faceplate the screw in the middle and the pressure against the frame around. The faceplate can vibrate relative to the surround at the edges and damping this is worth a try if you have some materials on hand. Glad the Furutech outlets have better screws then SR however
I just posted this n another thread about outlets.." The most interesting thing to my mind full of economic stuff is the cost of high end duplex. Compared to cables, which can range from a few dollars to $multiple tens of thousands per meter pair! ditto speaker cables and powercords. duplex are NOT expensive. decent cost $6 good cost $50 The best cost less than $300. (and are on sale of late for a lot less) Which is only the price of a moderate cost pair of IC. Dirt cheap in the grand scheme of uber $$$$ wire stuff. So for high end audio, the one place where high end money driven madness has NOT struck is duplex outlets. " (even a simple power strip can cost $3000 plus) But I bet the top prices will soon double.. Just a hunch.also: " So with all that in mind I jumped in and bought a dozen Furutech duplex. 7 gold, 5 Rhodium, Planning mass burn in, daisy chaining 10 of them them all front to back. (two are already in use) .. for a month.(note I am not fussing about trying every outlet from Tesla to Blue whatever.)
For the cost of two pair of the sort of IC I am now using, I can have every important outlet in my system/conditioners and such high end duplex." And yes it may be a tiny change but that is what matters. And the fact i will never have to change them again.All this in preparation for perhaps trying a real high end powercord. but first I have to optimize the system on the new duplex when they are broken in.
OK I connected FIVE new outlets daisy chain style and plugged them into the Kitchen wall between my plugs for stereo and wall. I only have five of the ten total, which arrived. Five is plenty to have plugged together anyway! Leave them there for at least two weeks.. I put up a big sign on top of them. In case I die and some dummy touches them live... Not good.Listening to the stereo through five new Furutech in a row... A bit thin sounding... But at least they all will be broken in equally.. LOL

My only fear is scratching up the interior of the new duplex with the silver plated raw wire ends... To connect them I added 5 cm 12 gauge  wire to back (on each side of each duplex) bent to flow into the face slots of the next duplex. I tied the duplex together with hair bands along the top and bottom duplex attachment points.
I stopped waiting for the 500 hours, I could not stand waiting for 200 hours. SO I pulled two duplex off the burn in.                
I also had to redo the end of the AC to the amp area (I previously split the quad AC wires into two branch AC duplex boxes. I had to take apart the previous work, and fix it up. (The main concern was keeping the HOT wires marked, so no fooling around searching which are the hot. (since all are the same color))             
I redid the quad twist all the way to the end, and used both pair of wires into BOTH duplex. One being Furutech GTX DR NCF, and the other a Furutech GTX D gold. Mainly so I can swap and discover which I like better for the amp, over time. (And this gives the amp 2 twelve gauge AC or an actual 9 gauge extension from the far kitchen 20 amp outlet). Since to do the work the stereo was off for about two hours.. So no just flipping a switch and say wow, nice.The next task is to install duplex into the Furman power conditioner.
A few hours later... I tried both with Deep Purple Machine Head. I felt the gold was too smoothing over for the best amp sound. Playing the same CD I like it better with the NCF Rhodium. Nothing hysterical to report. maybe a little more finesse on the HF, blacker background? A tiny bit more fine detail?
I am not disappointed. positive move.PS the change in the AC line is not gonna be noticed. I had them jumped together prior anyway.(I am always trying to keep the bass from becoming too prominent. Apartment living and over 55 old people do not play well with (even moderately) loud stereo thumps through the walls.)
I bought 2 power cords for my phono preamp. Both OFC stranded 12 gauge. One has gold plated pins, the other rhodium. The latter has a *slightly* steely black clean sound -more dynamic with less hash- with blacker chromium silences. The gold version does not have those qualities and is a touch warmer. It is as if the rhody is clean water while the gold has a drop of burbon in it.
A few mins after I posted the above, I thought I’d swap back in the rhodium power cord to check if what I wrote from memory was correct.
Put it this way, it’s not the same stereo it was earlier. It is louder and fine detail is much enhanced...illuminated even. Cymbals and delicate percussion are much clearer. Bass is tighter and snappier. The music seems to have taken on more drive, coherence and nuetrality. I swapped back to gold to check. This is ridiculous. I’ll have to listen to the collection again. I'm glad I read your post!
I think you will notice an even greater positive effect from the Rhodium connectors in 10 days to two weeks. During that time you may well have some days where the system sound 'tight' or even just plan bad.

David Pritchard
I use  "hospital grade" receptacles for my audio equipment.  Hospitals are always plugging and unplugging equipment at patient beds. Ordinary household receptacles are not meant for this type of abuse, the receptacle blades lose their "spring" in no time at all.  The electrical industry came up with extra heavy duty/sprung receptacle blades, tested with pull out weight tension, for the hospital industry.  This construction is also beneficial to audio equipment, assuring a good solid connection.  I use "20 amp" receptacles regardless of whether the receptacle is on a 15 or 20 amp circuit, as I would expect the 20 amp receptacles to have more copper and offer a better connection.  There is a limit to what can be achieved by a receptacle and a good tight connection is about all that is reasonable to pay for, so I don't buy "audio grade" receptacles.
degnanje
I use "20 amp" receptacles regardless of whether the receptacle is on a 15 or 20 amp circuit ...
That is definitely a code violation in many places, and potentially hazardous.
This morning I opened the Furman REF20i and started swapping receptacles. Sadly the first ’high current’ is so tightly held by the wires, plus it has a big filter on the back, glued on, I decided to at least for now, skip trying to swap it. To do so I would need to add on some wire.. The second high power was easier, so I took it off, used a GTX gold, and reconnected the filter to the Furutech. Also did to two of the four ’Technical power’ regular outlets. also switched the filters to the Furutech Duplex.One each Rhodium and Gold GTX.
Two othr duplex in the Technical power section run the plasma TV, the power for Kuzma TT motor, and two DVD players. things I do not think need the Furutech touch!          
So now my Marantz SA-10, The Rudistor RPX 33 headamp, the CJ ACT2, and Bryston BP-26 are now all added to Furutech Duplex.Added: just twenty minutes of playing... goosebumps.. The music has more finesse now. The perfect upgrade. Whoo Hoo!!
@elizabeth 
Two othr duplex in the Technical power section run the plasma TV, the power for Kuzma TT motor, and two DVD players. things I do not think need the Furutech touch!        
Actually power supplies for turntable motors are just about one of the most sensitive parts of any setup -- please do try upgrading the power cord and the outlet for your Kuzma, you may be very surprised at the impact


Elizabeth:
Welcome to the exciting world of outlet swapping! Isn’t It amazing the amount of change one outlet can make!
when things have settled in a while I hope you will try an upgrade outlet for your TV.
My Sony 4K and the LG- OLED TV’s both improved when attached to a Synergidtic Research Blue outlet. I think you will be impressed with a Fututech outlet for your TV.

David Pritchard
David. Actually the main reason is I ran out of outlets. Prior to the current five I recently put in, I had one in wall, and one for AC to conditioners.                              
I put two in to try both the Rhodium and Gold for the amp. Then three in the PC. I have five more coming. I am going to condition those daisy chained too. Then two for the PS Audio P-600 conditioner, and ?? I'll have to see. I can always just plug the TV in to one of the current Furutech. and see if it it looks better!Thanks for mentioning the TT. I will have to do at least one more in the Furman. Maybe two.
I cheated - -  and bought six hospital grade plugs. If they're good enough for the electronic equipment in an operating room, I'll trust them with my audio electronics. 
brayeagle:

As an Anesthesiologist I spend all day in the Operating Room, and hospital grade outlets impart a far worse sound to a system than any of the audio grade outlets such as Synergistic Research and Furutech outlets. And david_ten is correct - the acoustics in an OR are terrible.


David Pritchard
I just wanted tp mention my new Furutech in the Furman sound terrible and wonderful. Better clarity, but the entire frequency spectrum is messed up. IE less midrange too much treble treble. I had thought my attempt at breaking the Furutech outlets in by daisy chaining htem would help. Nope. In fact that seems to have made the real break in WORSE.I would guess because the wires were not in the same loctions as plug blades? Anyway, Here;s to hoping a few days of playing will settle the Furutech outlets down.
Rhodium is often frustrating to use. I think you will hear it settle in but it may take 3 - 10 - or 14 days. I appreciate your efforts and your reports.
I have had positive results with coating the connecting wires with the Total Contact by Perfect Technologies. It seems to “tame” some of the harshness of rhodium.
Best wishes for a good weekend.

David Pritchard
The odd frequency thing has cleared up. The duplex definitely offer greater clarity in the music playing on my system.I am thinking of replacing some of the wiring in the Furman going to 12 gauge MilSpec Teflon 600V  wire. It would ease the tightness, remove a bunch of crimped on AC connectors at the duplex end.(Cutting the connectors off as is would leave the wiring to short to work. The wiring is that tightly fitted.) The wiring comes from the transformer to a long old fashioned connecting bar (with dividers and twin sets of screws) So aside from tedious untangling the harness from each duplex to the bar, looks straight forward.)The last group of Duplex has arrived. I have enough to cover every outlet throughout the system, including all in power conditioners.
Exciting developments. I am confident your system will only improve over the next 4 to 6 weeks. I applaud your hard work and drive to improve your system.

David Pritchard
With about half the Duplex I bought in the system, I an say they are improving the sound.                        
I moved the Plasma TV to the Furman REF20i Furutech outlet with the NCF rhodium. eye popping improvement in less (Meaning no grain at all) grain in the picture. A few black and white films being played (over the air) were much sharper than they seem usually.             
It is nice to have a different medium show the improvement.
Update on progress installing Furutech duplex. I removed the gold GTX from the 20amp wall and replaced it with a GTX Rhodium NCF.Seems the closer to AC end 'like' the Rhodium NCF, and the component ends like the gold GTX. (Though I have the Rhodium to the amp duplex anyway. But all the rest, particularly sources, seem to sound better when the duplex is the gold GTX (than the Rhodium)I am still 'up in the air' for preamps, since I do not have a Rhodium set to try it on them yet.         
I put a Rhodium in the Furman Technical power area, but is does no good there. So my future plan is to move it to the Poweramp 120V/0v side of the Furman. And just keep gold GTX on the technical power 60v/60v side for sources. Then I can find out how well the Rhodium NCF compares to the GTX gold in the 120v/0v power section of the Furman.. on the preamps.  (that section has space for 2 duplex)     
I own and use Bryston BP-26, Conrad Johnson ACT2, Audible Illusions 3A, and an Audio Research Sp-15.   Right no they are on the GTX gold (Bryston and CJ), or the stock 120V duplex left in the Furman   (ARC and AI)  
The general system sound adding the Furutech is clearer, more detail. Better
pop' more snap to the music. A slight irritation seems to be gone. It was more like an extra enhancement to the treble than any sort of grunge. More HF energy then normal before break in. But that is passing. 
I would say the first few Furutech duplex made the most change. The added ones are more like smaller enhancements.
The change is kind of like a couple of better ICs or powercord..
Put an SR red in the outlet powering my mono blocks. I have a little over 50 hours on it now & all I can say is it's the absolute best upgrade I've ever done for $100. Now I'm going to have to get the blue one for the outlet feeding the exactpower transformer, which feeds the rest of the system (LOL, kind of). 
boxe12:
Congratulations on the upgrade. Your Synergistic Red outlet will continue to improve over the next 100 hours. Adding a SR Blue outlet o feed the rest of the system is a great idea. The Blue will sound already partially broken right out of the box, really good after 3 days and reach it's maximum improvement after about 10 days. The combination of using a Red and Blue outlet in a system is working great for me.

David Pritchard
Time has passed. I bought one more Furutech GTX-D NCF Rhodium duplex. And a few Furutech ’28’ Rhodium plugs.(the first two plugs to replace a pair of Wattgate copper (cheap) at the kitchen wall. Finished (and actually redid the first few duplex) Furutech duplex in the Furman REF20i. No wire replacement. Was able to do all with the original wiring. Deliberately plugged my in-use preamps into the new Rhodium duplex/ To see how it changes the sound (again).
With buying the latest Rhodium I have a gold left over. I do have an unused box on one of the two lines with a old duplex it it. I may stick it in there just to be sure the wiring is good inside. I have no memory of how I wired it into one quad AC line It was at least seven years ago. I may move one power conditioner too. That may work well with that extra duplex anyway.I currently have the Furman halfway from main rack to amp. As I used to have the amp plugged in to the Furman. Now I do not. so no need to have it so far away from main rack.I am liking the Rhodium more. At first, the Rhodium was annoying, but as time passes the Rhodium just gets better.
I also made a home made power cord with my quad twist wire, and a pair of Furutech ’28’ Rhodium plugs. To use between the floor box and Furman REF20i. It was the same price (with the sale going on at VH Audio) as a Pangea AC9SE signature (2 m). After breaking in for a month I can compare then and see if it is any better. sounding. I made a different PC with a my Quad wire, Wattgate silver Edison plug, and a base Wattgate ICE copper. It SUCKED. I guess I am getting fussier about how my AC plugs sound?            
I saved 31% off retail (average) with sales on duplex and plugs I bought.
Just to clarify (too late to modify) the words’"and a base Wattgate ICE"copper" It SUCKED. was in error.
The base Wattgate IEC plug is all brass, not copper. (the silver is silver plated brass.)
This morning I installed the LAST Furutech duplex (I just bought it a few days ago.  decided one more Rhodium for the high current lines in the Furman (witch I use for preamps) was a good idea.So I took out a gold from the Furman While gluing the big piggyback line cleaner/gizmos to the two High current duplex, instead of just let them hang.Then took THAT gold used to add a single box to the (previous) end of the amp line, thus allowing me to extend it four feet, (with 4ft of quad wire) and the original box with two Furutech to new end of amp line now four feet closer to amp. Allowing a maybe 1.5 m or definite 2m powercord. Where before it really had to be at least three meters and I had used a four meter powercord. (ever see what a high end FOUR METER power cord costs???)
I hope I am DONE with duplex. (a least until.....)
Elizabeth,
How do you like them (sound-wise) after putting some hours on them?